DogFather prelim: woodscraft and polearms

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Mar 12, 2006
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First full day with the dog father and the fiance is on a business trip, so the trusty dog (my real dog, a german short haired pointer) and a bag full of steel went to the park.

The plan was to strap the dogfather to the end of a stick and see how the added leverage increased cutting efficiency. The lowlands next to the creek didn't have much in the way of straight, strong, unrotted wood, so i ended up using a 2.5 inch diameter branch to keep things safe. After finding suitable wood it must have taken me another 15 minutes to get the darn thing tied on in such a way that accurate strikes could be made without the blade twisting or flopping around. 2 strikes into a rotten log and the pole snapped. 20 minutes of hunting for wood, shaping the end, and tying later and the dogfather was ready for a second test. Would you believe that the second stick broke, too? I considered using green wood as this would likely eliminate breakage but there was so few healthy trees where i was that I couldn't bear to kill any.

Polearm initial observations: Seating and tying the knife involved splitting a section of the branch off large enough to provide a flat for the side of the handle. This method was the most stable while also being fairly well balanced. I tried forking a branch as well as putting the spine against the stick with less than stellar results. In the forked branch, it was difficult to fasten the knife without using a weaker skinny branch. With the spine against the flat of the stick the blade would tend to rotate, loosening the paracord and ending the test. Perhaps most surprising was the deformation or erosion of the res-c handle material from the paracord, branch, as well from simple hand friction. After the second stick broke the poleaxe test was terminated because I noticed ribbing where the cord had been. The ribbing is visible to the eye as well as to the touch. If rubbed with the pad of a finger the black rubber will ball up and begin to form deposits.

The rest of the afternoon was spent chopping and splitting by hand. In this capacity the dogfather faired very well. During the course of this short test the number of strikes required to notch pieces of hardwood with the gerber handaxe and the dogfather were essentially the same. Having no prior experience with a large knife of this type the handaxe did feel more natural in use but provided equivalent cutting power. Bark removal and splitting was performed with more speed with the dogfather.

Initial conclusions: The dogfather is a versatile tool providing additional functionality and edge retention when compared with the gerber handaxe. There are no rolls or chips in the edge of the dogfather and it feels as sharp as it did when received. The handaxe takes a keen edge but doesnt hold it through chopping, making a quick touch up neccessary when going from chopping to finer woodworking (peeling, carving). The handle of the dogfather is very comfortable and secure, yielding no hotspots or fatigue. However, the durability of the material is questionable.

This was just a preliminary test. More work will be performed as well as actual numbers being taken in the near future. Hopefully I can polish the hazing out of the camera lense to get some better pictures as well. The polearm test will be performed again if wrapping the handle in canvas eliminates further damage.

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The handle of the dogfather is very comfortable and secure, yielding no hotspots or fatigue. However, the durability of the material is questionable.

No, it's really not a concern, I've been using the Busse/Swamp/Scrap Yard resiprine handles for years now. If you do get a scratch or cut in them, take a lighter to the spot for about 3-4 seconds and it'll close up. As long as you're not using the handle to drive tent stakes, it'll be fine.

Nice work :)
 
So I just spent 2 hours trying to put an edge on this beast with limited success. The factory edge looked like an evenly ground v with a high polished microbevel. The first hour was spent with 220 grit paper in the ezesharp just trying to flatten and even up the primary edge bevel. There is A LOT of metal to move on that long wide edge! I polished the primary edge bevel up to a 4000 norton, then put an 8000 microbevel a few degrees higher. Its shaving sharp but it doesnt seem to bite into wood as hard as the factory edge.

What are you guys putting on blades/steel like this?

t1mpani: I'm sure under normal use the res-c would be fine, but with pinpoint pressure the soft material does deform as would be expected from a soft rubber. I'll just have to come up with a more gentle way to strap the handle to a pole.
 
It is my understanding that all knives under the vast Busse family are convex ground, which means that you actually removed the factory edge and re-profiled the knife into a v-grind. I was tempted to do the same with my SS4 cause I sucked so bad at sharpening the convex edge, but I eventually got the hang of it. :thumbup:
 
If it was convex ground it was very slight, although i was pretty sure i had read somewhere that these were v ground. If it was convex before it sure isnt now. Tomorrow i'll take it to a boron carbide loaded strop to soften up the v for testing. I've never worked with a convex grind before and i doubt i could get it as sharp as i can doing a v in the eze sharp. Try as I might, my free hand sharpening just isnt precise enough. I haven't used a rubber mousepad in years, maybe there is one hiding in the attic waiting to be recycled.
 
Nice review. I agree that the Dogfather renders a hand axe impractical and unnecessary - I've done quite a bit of chopping, splitting, and batoning with mine and love it. ResC is tough stuff, but I still wouldn't baton on the pommel at all. Thanks for the comparison though - some of us on the Scrapyard forum were discussing this same issue the other night.
 
Diceman: While i wouldn't call a hand axe impractical and unnecessary, it certainly would be obsolete when a dogfather is an available tool. The pommel as well as the rest of the res-c handle is not designed for repeated impact. In an attempt to use the dogfather as a replacement for a full sized axe I overlooked that very fact. Using the dogfather as a polearm subjects the handle to forces similar to what would be applied if batoning it directly. There is definitely much more dogfather (ab)use ahead of me before I make any final conclusions about its finer points. After picking up a scrapper 6 at the ohio pro show I was sold on the comfort of the res-c and was convinced that I needed to test a dogfather as a handaxe replacement. Its probably time i get my butt over to the scrapyard forum and learn how to really abuse these things.
 
Definately check out the yard - you'll love it.

I was probably a little aggressive w/ my choice of words - obsolete is more fitting. The DF is simply much more versatile, chops as well, and splits better than the camp axe. Again, great testing. Have you tried Batoning w/ it yet? The DF spine will take impacts all day, but the comfort of the ResC grip overshadows the fact that you can't beat on it in my opinion. The grip will still take a whole heck of a lot of abuse though - but I wouldn't baton on it all day every day when I was using it. You should post this review in the Yard also, you'll get tons of comments (one from Dan Busse as well, I'm sure).
 
I split a pile of wood into quarters or sixths with a baton. Beating through at least 40 hard knots in 2in diameter branches with the same section of the blade the edge looked and felt exactly the same from tip to heel. There is just about no way you are breaking this knife using a wooden baton on a wooden target. I just wish that the club i was using had a res-c handle! The res-c handles are indeed a trade off, but one that I am happy to make. Oddly enough, the coating on the side of the blade is completely trashed compared to any other coated knife i own, but the spine finish looks virtually untouched even though it was continually beat on. I can already see steel at the top of the primary grind towards the tip. The coating performance/appearance did not affect my opinion of the knife in any way, though.
 
Its shaving sharp but it doesnt seem to bite into wood as hard as the factory edge.

You likely made the edge a bit more obtuse, just thin the shoulder back a little.

The handle of the dogfather is very comfortable and secure, yielding no hotspots or fatigue. However, the durability of the material is questionable.

It is very soft and doesn't resist abrasion like G10/Micarta, you definately don't want very tight and hard cord bound to it if it can jerk around under impacts.

-Cliff
 
Nice write up and pics. I wish I had some woods like that close by for chopping tests :)
 
tknife: I used to live in the poconos where all I had to do to be in the woods was go outside. There was a boyscout reserve a mile away through the woods and it was a twenty minute drive to get to the apalachian trail, or 7 minutes to state park land. Where i live now though, the closest state land for backpacking is an hour away. These pictures were taken at the 2600 acre mingo creek county park, a 15 minute drive.

cliff: I am inclined to agree. It was taking so long to flatten out the primary edge bevel that laziness prompted me to switch to the higher angle microbevel earlier than i should have. I'm not sure yet if I am going to put it back in the ezesharp to finish bringing the primary down or try to bring the shoulder down on the strop. What is your recommended geometry for this steel and use? Currently the edge bevels are 0.076" (+/-0.003") wide, the edge thickness is 0.051" (+/- 0.001"). That comes out to ~39 degrees included.
 
some pics of the edge on it now. The factory edge bevel was very rough and the deeper scratches are still visible in some places. The high polish at the very edge is from Cr2O3 loaded strop.

In the first picture you can just make out a slightly wavy line where i switched to the higher angle. In the second picture you can see the same thing but in a different position and on the other side. I guess 3 am is not the best time for precision sharpening.

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Currently the edge bevels are 0.076" (+/-0.003") wide, the edge thickness is 0.051" (+/- 0.001"). That comes out to ~39 degrees included.

That is FAR too thick for woodcraft, you want about 0.025" for chopping, 0.030" for batoning, but unless you have a heavy beltsander or insane patience (Thom) you can't really do anything about the edge thickness as you would have to modify the main blade grind, so you have to concentrate on the angle.

I would suggest a shaping at about 15 degrees per side and then just finish at 20 to sharpen. My personal ones are about 10 for the main bevel and then have the last bit, under 0.025" at about 15 and then just finish with a few passes at 20 to sharpen.

-Cliff
 
Heavier-duty tools are certainly preferrable, but not at all necessary. I took a Becker brute down to a full-height convex grind on my little Delta beltsander that is available at Lowe's for about $89.99. True, it did take me 3 hours, but that was with making regular stops to dunk the blade in water to keep it cool, and not applying a lot of pressure so as to not build up heat too quickly--but if you have ever seen the factory "edges" that those came with, you'll know just how much steel was removed. Without redoing the entire blade, a much higher edge bevel could be put on this DF with just a basic belt sander in very little time.
 
While a "heavy-duty" grinder might not be necessary, the harbor freight 1x30 likely wouldn't last long regrinding a few of these things. I just spent almost 4 hours bringing the edge down to 34 degrees (with 220 paper) and giving it a 8k polish. The aluminum blanks i use with abrasive paper are only an inch wide so that doesnt help either. Thom would have had it done in no time with his coarse diamond hone. It splits hair longitudinally but no luck getting a picture of that though as my hair is fine and blond and it just wouldn't pick it up. I might be inclined to make a video of me shaving my face with it though. Looking forward to testing out its performance with the revised edge.

I went straight from the 220 to the 8k because I had already spent half a day on it so there are still some deeper scratches.

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80 and 120 grit belts help a great deal. Can always shell out a few dollars more and get ceramic belts which will last a little longer grinding metal than straight aluminum oxide. My grinder is a 1/3HP 1X42"--used it to redo my Becker about three years ago and it's still going strong, many many many projects later. Just have to be careful not to overload the engine by applying too much pressure.
 
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