Don't fear the file

H

HoosierQ

Joined
Feb 9, 2010
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I pretty much reprofile all my factory edges...I'm sick. Even the decent ones don't suit me...I don't think I am alone.

The last two I did, instead of starting with my DMT X-Course I started with a file. A big mill bastard file and a small very sharp needle file (on of the flat rectangular ones). I am careful as I've been filing stuff for decades...machetes, do my own mower blades, other projects. It remove a lot of metal fast and then when I go to the X-Course, I have way less time to spend there. Done right, the X-Course diamond plate removes all of the scratch pattern left by the files.

For serious reprofiling, I am going to stick to this method. I cannot see a down side. I did an Izula-II yesterday and it came out fantastic. Looks just like the one I did entirely on the stone, in way less time.

I mean, the masters who make samurai swords use files during their process so I think that's good enough for me.

I don't own any proper cutlery safe power tools. I have only an old fashioned bench grinder that I won't even use on a lawnmower blade.

So I say to you, Ladies and Gentlemen, don't fear the file!
 
Now I will qualify my "no fear" statement here with the fact that so far, I have only done fixed blades. I am a little concerned about doing a folder due to the likely sideways leverage I'd be applying with a large file. Plus my folders (Military etc) are higher end steel and a little harder than my 1095 blades. I might give it a try with the needle files. It would take a little longer but I am a little concerned that I am wearing out my XC diamond plate and those doggone things are expensive!!!

Next up is going to be a no hold barred file job on my ESEE-5 on which I did a rather poor mousepad, sandpaper job...not a big fan of that method frankly. Not worried about sideways force on that brute. My plan there is to file it down nice and even, then sandpaper it back nice and smooth and shiney (I stipped the coating off cause I botched the sandpaper thing)...I'll take my time. File, sandpaper, file, sandpaper, etc. Then when I get my profile just right and almost sharp, I am going to slap it on the Sharpmaker at 40 degrees, put a microbevel on it at 40 degrees inclusive with the coursest Sharpmaker stones, stop at the coursest stone, and then strop it, giving it a very toothy edge...I mean this is an ESEE-5 here.

File away good people...File I say!!!
 
Just one thought, I doubt that a file can cut s30v, zdp, m4 etc ... Esee 1095is on the soft side but Ive seen similar steel hardened to 63 and above, here too a file will struggle.
 
I dulled out my single-cut mill bd. on a Case Trapper, and I believe that's only a variety of 1085 HT'd to 55-57 HRC. Maybe a double-cut holds up better
 
Yeah ESEE is stated at 56-57 I think. My Millie is CPM-S30V stated at 60-62. Not real sure a file will work on that at all. I reprofiled a Para-2 but did that all with the diamond plate and it was not that hard to do...took a while.

I noticed that my little tiny Craftsman needle file from the set of 6 cut way more aggressively that my big mill bastard single cut file. I wonder, are there some harder files out there? I take care of my files...chalk them, clean them, etc...so maybe a good, sharp, hard agressive file of moderate size is what I need to add to my collection.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the vanadium carbides in the supersteels (S30V, etc.) are WAY harder than a file will be, up in the mid-80s on the RC scale. The hardness spec of the blades themselves is sort of misleading, as it reflects the hardness of the steel matrix itself, but not the carbides in the matrix. I'd be surprised (shocked even) if a file would be effective at re-bevelling any such steel. Using a similar-sized diamond hone takes quite a bit of time on S30V. I managed to wear one out on a job like that. I'd cringe to think how long the job would be with a simple file.

Regarding filing smaller blades on folders, my dad used to use a small triangular file to maintain the fishing knife he & I used on our fishing trips together, back in the '70s/'80s. Worked fine on that simple stainless steel (it was a Japanese knife; probably something akin to 420/440/AUS-6/8 types of stainless).
 
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Well it sounds like we needn't fear the file but just know its limitations. I am happy with the results on 1095 but I think I will stear clear on my S30V or VG10.
 
For the super steels, I'd be tempted to buy a low RPM wet grinder and a silicon carbide wheel for it.
 
Good files work well on S30V, been there and done it. It takes a little time but they do it.
 
Whitedog said:
Good files work well on S30V, been there and done it. It takes a little time but they do it.
Click to expand...

I'm wondering if a coarse file would act more to just rip out the carbides, while abrading the surrounding steel itself, as opposed to actually honing or significantly abrading the carbides? Something to think about, I suppose...
 
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