Don't get burned ! Turbo Mode (Flashlights)

[DocJD]

Nope , I'm not against this at all . There's very real useful applications , but beware the dangers and limitations .

For my purposes of discussion , I'm defining Turbo as any light mode that cannot be safely used continuously under real world conditions ,until battery charge is exhausted . On some models this will apply to High Mode , at least , also .

The problem of course is overheating . The more compact and powerful , the worse the problems .

I'll have more to add later , but be sure to educate yourself if you don't already know the dangers and limitations .

Makers are really pushing the limits because this is huge sales feature to be hyped now .

 

[barleywino]

Nope , I'm not against this at all . There's very real useful applications , but beware the dangers and limitations .

For my purposes of discussion , I'm defining Turbo as any light mode that cannot be safely used continuously under real world conditions ,until battery charge is exhausted . On some models this will apply to High Mode , at least , also .

The problem of course is overheating . The more compact and powerful , the worse the problems .

I'll have more to add later , but be sure to educate yourself if you don't already know the dangers and limitations .

Makers are really pushing the limits because this is huge sales feature to be hyped now .

I assume this is why my Olight S1 mini baton has no glass window over the reflector, to allow heat to escape

 

[DocJD]

I assume this is why my Olight S1 mini baton has no glass window over the reflector, to allow heat to escape

What keeps the water and dirt out ?

 

[barleywino]

What keeps the water and dirt out ?

Good question

 

[singularity35]

I've gone over to the FW3A as an edc light. I like it because so far it's the smallest 18650 light I own. The thing is the eswitch(?) is easy to activate unless it's locked. Turbo mode on it quickly heats it up and more than once, I've had an itching then a burning sensation in my pocket.

 

[TheChunk91]

If you need an emergency fire you can always use your turbo mode.

 

[Silent H]

I've quickly learned that the most useful mode on any light I use is the low/moonlight mode. I have used some lights with turbo modes, and they often wash out whatever I want to look at, and I just switch to a lower brightness anyway.

 

[Planterz]

I've been researching EDC lights for a few weeks now with the intention of buying a couple (at least), but still haven't. I'd love a very bright turbo, both for utility and for "poops and chuckles", but so many lights don't have the right kind of "high" level I'm looking for. Too many have an absurd turbo (which is fine), but have too dramatic a step-down to a level which I wouldn't consider "high". Or the UI sucks and you have to cycle through strobes and/or without being given shortcuts to turbo and/or moonlight. I really liked the Thrunite T1's UI, but sadly the UI wasn't duplicated for the T2 (why it doesn't give you a ~700 lumen high rather than starting out much brighter before stepping down is puzzling). I already returned a T1 because the flimsy rubber switch cover came off. I'm heavily looking at a FW3A and/or Acebeam TK18 for an EDC and a TK16 Osram as a "pocket rocket. Also interested in a Fitorch ER16 and Jetbeam RRT-01 (they can use 123A/16430 as well as 18350 batteries), as well as some of the Eagtacs.

I've quickly learned that the most useful mode on any light I use is the low/moonlight mode. I have used some lights with turbo modes, and they often wash out whatever I want to look at, and I just switch to a lower brightness anyway.

I like when a UI gives you instant access to turbo, but I'd like instant access to moonlight (or at least a "low") as well, even if it's because it cycles through brightness levels (as long as it starts at low), since I'm more likely to need a low level simply to see and would prefer not to blind myself (or others). I want an "EDC" light, not a "tactical" light.

What keeps the water and dirt out ?

Good question

The S1R II has a TIR optic, not a reflector, and the optic is a chunk of plastic that seals to the body (with an o-ring? I don't know).

 

[singularity35]

Turbo mode is actually used very often. Each time I come home at night. I have a big unlighted area before I get to my gate and I scan it from a distance before I go near. Just force of habit.

 

[000Robert]

I think my Klarus P2A just calls it 'Hi' instead of 'Turbo', but after about five minutes on Hi it will start getting pretty warm. After about ten minutes it will get pretty hot.
After checking to be more accurate, it starts getting hot closer to sixteen minutes. That's with the AA's in the grey area between good and bad of my VOM.

 

[WValtakis]

I like when a UI gives you instant access to turbo, but I'd like instant access to moonlight (or at least a "low") as well, even if it's because it cycles through brightness levels (as long as it starts at low), since I'm more likely to need a low level simply to see and would prefer not to blind myself (or others). I want an "EDC" light, not a "tactical" light.

Check out HDS Systems' interface, 4 user settable levels with direct access to all

 

[krazichinaman]

I run my Steamlight 2L-X setup for High - Strobe - Low. For my needs, I find that for about 60-70% of the time, I do require the "HIGH" mode first, the rest of the time its low. The downside is that when its clipped to my pocket and accidently activated, I've had some warm pockets...HAH! Mine only goes up to 500 lumens, so I don't even want to know what its like with 1000+ lumens on for a few minutes in the pocket.

 

[Venice]

I tried the Acebeam UC 15 to get high output with reasonable spacing between modes. To get the best performance it requires the use of lithium ion batteries. It won't perform like a 18650 light as it uses two AAAs or 10440s but has red and UV lights built in. I find that the turbo is really not necessary with these outputs. It also has a full lock-out so it shouldn't come on in the pocket.
Run times seem reasonable for what it is.
Specs:
Moonlight: 5 LMS, 46h, 6m, 10cd
Low: 140 LMS, 2h 24min, 38m, 360cd
Mid: 300 LMS, 1h 6min, 59m, 860cd
High: 600~200 LMS, 4min+30min, 80m, 1600cd
Turbo: 1000~200 LMS, 1min+46min, 107m, 2880cd

Really like it.

 

[Planterz]

Check out HDS Systems' interface, 4 user settable levels with direct access to all

They're actually only about 3 miles from me. Novatac is (was?) just a few blocks further. I has a U60XRGT back in the day, but I had it mounted on my $2300 Kona when it got stolen. The HDS lights these days aren't as bright as I'd like, plus they're rather expensive compared to other lights available these days (back then the cost was more "reasonable"). I think these days Narsil or Andruil seems to be the way to go, and can be used much in the way my old HDS could (from what I can remember about it). I'd have already purchased a Lumintop FW3A if it didn't use PWM dimming. There's a buck/boost drop-in with proper regulating (still Andruil) you can buy, but it's not exactly a "drop in" since you have to unsolder the old one and solder the new one, and I have very little experience doing that sort of thing (don't own a soldering iron either).

It's quite amazing how far LED tech has come. Back then I thought 60 lumens was pretty impressive (considering Surefire's 2 cell incandescents were only 60 lumens). My rechargeable keychain light (Royvon Aurora A5) is 600 lumens, and except for the lack of throw (no complaints, a floody beam is what I want in a keychain light), I don't really need a second "EDC" light.

 

[d762nato]

I still got a sure fire from the 90's and it is 90 lumens which at the time was really bright. I guess I had it on at one time and set it down standing up on the lens end. Well when I picked it up I though oh shoot, and I looked at the glass and it was melted some what. I can't imagine how strong or hot they get now. My surefire holds 3 cr batteries and is still a good light. I heard you can upgrade these is this true.

 

[TheChunk91]

I still got a sure fire from the 90's and it is 90 lumens which at the time was really bright. I guess I had it on at one time and set it down standing up on the lens end. Well when I picked it up I though oh shoot, and I looked at the glass and it was melted some what. I can't imagine how strong or hot they get now. My surefire holds 3 cr batteries and is still a good light. I heard you can upgrade these is this true.

Yes you can upgrade them. Look into malkoff devices, they make lots of drop in kits for surefires (and some other lights) and are top quality, made in the US.

Here’s a turbo mode you definitely have to be careful with. Streamlight microstream using a 10440 liIon battery on the left, and a microstream using a regular aaa on the right. A 10440 in these cranks the output much higher, and gets hot fast. It’s a fun little hot rod light to play around with but I would not leave it on for long intervals.

 

[Scott321]

I've been researching EDC lights for a few weeks now with the intention of buying a couple (at least), but still haven't. I'd love a very bright turbo, both for utility and for "poops and chuckles", but so many lights don't have the right kind of "high" level I'm looking for. Too many have an absurd turbo (which is fine), but have too dramatic a step-down to a level which I wouldn't consider "high". Or the UI sucks and you have to cycle through strobes and/or without being given shortcuts to turbo and/or moonlight. I really liked the Thrunite T1's UI, but sadly the UI wasn't duplicated for the T2 (why it doesn't give you a ~700 lumen high rather than starting out much brighter before stepping down is puzzling). I already returned a T1 because the flimsy rubber switch cover came off. I'm heavily looking at a FW3A and/or Acebeam TK18 for an EDC and a TK16 Osram as a "pocket rocket. Also interested in a Fitorch ER16 and Jetbeam RRT-01 (they can use 123A/16430 as well as 18350 batteries), as well as some of the Eagtacs.



I like when a UI gives you instant access to turbo, but I'd like instant access to moonlight (or at least a "low") as well, even if it's because it cycles through brightness levels (as long as it starts at low), since I'm more likely to need a low level simply to see and would prefer not to blind myself (or others). I want an "EDC" light, not a "tactical" light...

There are a few, but different brands, UI's, etc. even different UI's between models of the same brand.

There's a couple ways to get what you're looking for. For example, the ET Clicklies come on high when the head is tightened, have mode memory for a loosened head, and some can be programmed to start in the low mode (instead of mode memory) for the loosened head. The ET Tactical models often have tight head for high, loose for medium, and looser for low... they also have forward clickies for momentary, unlike the normal Clickies.

SF has a number of flashlights that offer ways to access low from off. The Tactician does this with a loosened head (I think the Backup too), and the EDCL1-T and EDCL2-T have a two stage tail switch, with the first half of the push giving low. I think some other models offer low from on as well (like the Aviator IIRC).

My Acebeams have a long press on the mode button for low (or moonlight when available), and retain the tailcap switch for Turbo only. My Klarus has a similar UI with the long press mode button for ultralow, and the tailcap main button for Turbo. Nitecore similary has some options (not my models though). I'm sure there are many other options out there, but you have to peruse the UI on each model to determine if it has low from off options.