Don't know if this has been discussed but......

F

flavc3

Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
155
I would love to see a Scandi Becker:) Is there even a remote possibility to get my hopes up????
 
Don't get your hopes up. Word is Uncle E is not a fan of Scandi grinds. The Warrior has done some cool renderings, but....nothing that'll go anywhere, I'm afraid.
 
IIRC, a scandi grind is a sabre grind without a secondary bevel. If so, couldn't you just resharpen to remove the secondary bevel creating a scandi grind?

In most profile illustrations I've seen, the scandi grind looks like a low sabre grind while non-flat Beckers have high sabre grinds.

With the blade thickness of most the BK's, would a scandi grind be beneficial?
 
TravisH said:
IIRC, a scandi grind is a sabre grind without a secondary bevel. If so, couldn't you just resharpen to remove the secondary bevel creating a scandi grind?

In most profile illustrations I've seen, the scandi grind looks like a low sabre grind while non-flat Beckers have high sabre grinds.

With the blade thickness of most the BK's, would a scandi grind be beneficial?
Click to expand...

Yep, thats about right. A scandi is a low saber without the secondary bevel. I'm not sure what the actual primary grind angles are on the Beckers, or if they'd work as the scandi grind (scandi grind edges are in a somewhat specific angle range IIRC).

And the last bit, I've wondered about that as well. The Tops B.O.B. is an example of a knife that is pretty thick, and has a scandivex grind (scandi with some convex up near the shoulders) that people seem to like. So I'd imagine a tweener thickness scandi knife would do/sell ok. But honestly, I feel like for a scandi, anything past about 1/8in is pretty much unnecessary.
 
I would kill for a scandi becker but I don't think Ethan will ever make one. Someone needs to post a link to warrior's renderings, they are amazing.
 
A Scandi is real nice on a blade of relatively thin stock and you'd struggle to find a Beckerhead that hasn't owned a Mora, in my experience the main benefit is to put more meat behind the edge of a relatively thin blade (this is one reason why Moras et. al. can get by with the hard use that we all see on the web). It's my opinion that we don't really *need* this here in Beckerland because we are blessed with copious blade thickness. A lot of others purport it for ease of sharpening, which it has-- only one angle to follow, no secondary bevel to accidentally blend into your primary bevel. And my hand can feel a different feedback when it works wood.

Many Beckerheads, myself included prefer a convex bevel (or even a full convex grind). For my use, I prefer the lower drag at the eased shoulder, it glides right through the media. In the words of someone I listen intently to on such matters, "A straight razor is just about the only thing I wouldn't put a convex on." And, believe me, Uncle Ethan has tried out any blade he can sneak off to a brushpile or treeline with to constantly reevaluate what he does, and why he does it that way-- he's a user of edged tools.


For Clarity's sake, here is a visual (sadly, pilfered from the web) on what the cross sections look like.

18655822989_716e1ca372.jpg
[/url]grind angles by ThePointyEnd, on Flickr[/IMG]

As for stock Becker angles, Bladite put together a handy section in the blade database sticky, linked here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-(Knife-Specs-and-Data)?p=8961759#post8961759

Sorry I haven't found Dubs's renderings as of this post, took long enough to find a decent pic of grind types, haha.

Hope this helps!
 
I would love to see a tweener sized scandi ground Becker knife. I have barked up this tree many times and love the rendering The Warrior made.

Even though I believe it would be a good seller I doubt it will happen. Fortunately, there are plenty of options out there with a scandi grind.

Jeremy
 
ThePointyEnd said:
A Scandi is real nice on a blade of relatively thin stock and you'd struggle to find a Beckerhead that hasn't owned a Mora, in my experience the main benefit is to put more meat behind the edge of a relatively thin blade (this is one reason why Moras et. al. can get by with the hard use that we all see on the web). It's my opinion that we don't really *need* this here in Beckerland because we are blessed with copious blade thickness. A lot of others purport it for ease of sharpening, which it has-- only one angle to follow, no secondary bevel to accidentally blend into your primary bevel. And my hand can feel a different feedback when it works wood.

Many Beckerheads, myself included prefer a convex bevel (or even a full convex grind). For my use, I prefer the lower drag at the eased shoulder, it glides right through the media. In the words of someone I listen intently to on such matters, "A straight razor is just about the only thing I wouldn't put a convex on." And, believe me, Uncle Ethan has tried out any blade he can sneak off to a brushpile or treeline with to constantly reevaluate what he does, and why he does it that way-- he's a user of edged tools.


For Clarity's sake, here is a visual (sadly, pilfered from the web) on what the cross sections look like.

18655822989_716e1ca372.jpg
[/url]grind angles by ThePointyEnd, on Flickr[/IMG]

As for stock Becker angles, Bladite put together a handy section in the blade database sticky, linked here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-(Knife-Specs-and-Data)?p=8961759#post8961759

Sorry I haven't found Dubs's renderings as of this post, took long enough to find a decent pic of grind types, haha.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Heh, I've pilfered that same grind photo from the web a number of times :).

One thing though, I was asking about the primary grind angles in my previous post, not the secondary grind (edge angle). IIRC, most scandi knives are somewhere in the 11 degrees per side area. The reason I brought that up, was because I wasn't sure if simply taking a saber ground becker (like the BK17 for instance) and making it a scandi edge would be feasible, or if it would give you too obtuse/fine of an edge angle (let alone thinking about all of the grinding that would be).

But I agree. A scandi grind seems to work best on relatively thin blade stock. A ~22 degree inclusive edge angle on a thick 3/16 or 1/4in blade would be quite heavy, and would suck to slice through pretty much anything. And, the scandi grind actually helps make that thin blade stock "stronger", just because there is all of that extra steel in it compared to a FFG or hollow grind. With thicker/taller knives, you don't "need" that extra steel, and so the FFG/saber grinds make a bit more sense.

As it is, I quite like scandi grinds for wood carving, but other than that I feel that FFG/saber/convex edges can all work better.
 
ocnLogan said:
One thing though, I was asking about the primary grind angles in my previous post, not the secondary grind (edge angle). IIRC, most scandi knives are somewhere in the 11 degrees per side area. The reason I brought that up, was because I wasn't sure if simply taking a saber ground becker (like the BK17 for instance) and making it a scandi edge would be feasible, or if it would give you too obtuse/fine of an edge angle (let alone thinking about all of the grinding that would be).
Click to expand...

Haha, right you are! that's what I get for posting right after work, lol.

Let me find my angle finder. ironic, I know...


Ask, and ye shall receive:

BK-14 approx 4 deg. per side.

BK-15 approx 3 deg. per side.

BK-16 (FFG) approx 3 deg. per side.

BK-16 (sabre ground) approx 7 deg. per side.

BK-17 approx 6 deg. per side.

BK-9 approx 8 deg. per side.

man, I wish there was a degree sign on the keyboard, lol.

All these measurements were taken on my dial type angle finder from a home improvement store, hence they are approximate.
 
ThePointyEnd said:
Haha, right you are! that's what I get for posting right after work, lol.

Let me find my angle finder. ironic, I know...


Ask, and ye shall receive:

BK-14 approx 4 deg. per side.

BK-15 approx 3 deg. per side.

BK-16 (FFG) approx 3 deg. per side.

BK-16 (sabre ground) approx 7 deg. per side.

BK-17 approx 6 deg. per side.

BK-9 approx 8 deg. per side.

man, I wish there was a degree sign on the keyboard, lol.

All these measurements were taken on my dial type angle finder from a home improvement store, hence they are approximate.
Click to expand...

Whoa, excellent work. I was sitting here typing out my last response, trying to figure out how I'd determine the primary grind angles, and then you go ahead and do it :).

The takeaway here is how much the FFG really helps the BK16 be "slicey". Thats a huge difference (10 degrees inclusive).

And it looks like taking a saber ground becker and trying to "scandi-ize" it would be quite a bit of work, and might leave you with something a touch fragile (assuming you just ground the primary grind until you got a zero edge), so thats good to know.

Thanks again man :).
 
I will not say never but, there are so many blades nearer and dearer to my heart, that I want to see in production, that it is unlikely anytime in the next several years....... It is no secret that I am not a big fan...... I have some and use them from time to time and certainly from a mfg. point of view they are really tempting because of their simplicity and therefore cheapness.....I do understand their appeal and their proponents definitely have a point......... I gotta say tho, that every time I pick one up I want to find a grinder and convex the bejazus out of it....

Ethan
 
Pointy... I knew you were somewhat og a "nerd" about edges and grinds, but wow... you tha man...
Best wishes from the Nord...
 
I think wanting a scandi is a good excuse to buy a Scandinavian-made knife! find yourself a nice birch-handled pukko. And a BK-9. You can't not have a 9.
 
Ethan Becker said:
I will not say never but, there are so many blades nearer and dearer to my heart, that I want to see in production, that it is unlikely anytime in the next several years....... It is no secret that I am not a big fan...... I have some and use them from time to time and certainly from a mfg. point of view they are really tempting because of their simplicity and therefore cheapness.....I do understand their appeal and their proponents definitely have a point......... I gotta say tho, that every time I pick one up I want to find a grinder and convex the bejazus out of it....

Ethan
Click to expand...

Any chance for (BK-9 preferred) extra large handle?
Love the handle, but for us with XL hands, it's very tight fit. With gloves on, pinky won't fit in at all.
 
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