Don't know what to think!

Zookie · Oct 15, 2012

I have had my Gen 4 xm18 3.5 for a few months now and carry it fairly frequently. It has become my favorite folder, but so far I have noticed that it dulls a lot faster than my Sebenza's s30v and striders CPM 154 even though the blade isn't marked when should mean it has 20cv. Then I noticed that the lock face is only partially engaged and the rest of it has space between it and the lock bar as if it has been grinded out (picture best describes this.) I dont know if my hinderer is fake or if I'm just going crazy. Also there is small machining marks on the upper grind of the spanto blade which I don't know if that's normal or not. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

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RDA · Oct 15, 2012

Zookie said:
I have had my Gen 4 xm18 3.5 for a few months now and carry it fairly frequently. It has become my favorite folder, but so far I have noticed that it dulls a lot faster than my Sebenza's s30v and striders CPM 154 even though the blade isn't marked when should mean it has 20cv. Then I noticed that the lock face is only partially engaged and the rest of it has space between it and the lock bar as if it has been grinded out (picture best describes this.) I dont know if my hinderer is fake or if I'm just going crazy. Also there is small machining marks on the upper grind of the spanto blade which I don't know if that's normal or not. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

Not sure what to tell you on the dulling, I find 20CV to hold a working edge for a long time and has very good wear resistance, I prefer it to S30V and CPM154. Are you using it in a different fashion than your other knives? Has it been properly sharpened?

Yes, you have an authentic Gen 4 XM-18 with 20CV. The lock face is proper, it is ground that way from Hinderer Knives. I don't know what you mean by "small machining marks on the upper grind of the spanto blade".

camoninja · Oct 15, 2012

It appears to me you have 3 different lines here on the blade. Might need some practice sharpening.

misterjuiceman · Oct 15, 2012

That's actually the proper way to grind a lock. You want the lock to engage at a single point and as close to the end of the lockbar as possible, to minimize the potential for future play and maximize lock strength, respectively. Emerson explains this, also, on his website, http://www.emersonknives.com/ekKnifeAnatomy.php with a diagram that looks almost identical to how your knife does.

Maprik · Oct 16, 2012

Definitely looks like the real thing. What are you sharpening your knife with? Have you tried a Wicked Edge or had a professional sharpen it?

Zookie · Oct 16, 2012

Okay, thank you for the info! Im cutting Manila rope for testing.

I'm sharpening with a wicked edge. I bought the knife used and it had something like a 19 degree grind on each side and I took it up to 22 degrees which I'm guessing is why there is multiply grind lines. Should I take it back down to 19 so I don't have those grind lines?

camoninja · Oct 16, 2012

Keep going with 22 degrees until you have one solid bevel there.

Zookie · Oct 16, 2012

camoninja said:
Keep going with 22 degrees until you have one solid bevel there.

Ok thank you, should I hit it with a lower grit? Say 100/200 on the WE?

Maprik · Oct 16, 2012

Yup. Start at 100 and work it till you have one bevel. Use a sharpie to check it before you move to 200. I've learned too that once you get your burr at 100 then from then on your strokes on subsequent grits should be light and gentle. You don't need pressure just consistent strokes. Clay is an expert and his videos make it look easy. I find that slow deliberate strokes that end before I roll past the tip work best for me.

Zookie · Oct 16, 2012

Maprik said:
Yup. Start at 100 and work it till you have one bevel. Use a sharpie to check it before you move to 200. I've learned too that once you get your burr at 100 then from then on your strokes on subsequent grits should be light and gentle. You don't need pressure just consistent strokes. Clay is an expert and his videos make it look easy. I find that slow deliberate strokes that end before I roll past the tip work best for me.

Awesome.

I finished and I no longer have multiple grind lines, thanks for the tips! I too have also found not to go too fast because I end up rolling over the tip, so like you said slow deliberate strokes work best.

Thanks again.

RubiconSS · Oct 16, 2012

I think you will find the 22* (single bevel) to be more than adequate and a better performer than you were experiencing.
Enjoy:thumbup: