Double Dipped Acid Washed Spyderco Domino. . .

bpeezer said:
Care to share your process? That looks pretty slick
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I dipped it once in FeCl (ferric chloride, aka pcb etchant) for about 5 minutes, stone washed it for about 10 minutes, dipped it again in the FeCl acid bath and stone washed it a final time for about 5 minutes. The most time consuming part was marking out the spots I didn't want etched. All in all, the whole process took around 1.5 hours.

In regards to stone washing, I've tried several methods including getting a motor driven media tumbler and ceramic media. The best method I've found so far (for a really aggressive stone wash finish) was a simple container (Gatorade container will do) with a squirt of WD40 or water and a handful of various sized rocks/pebbles (the more jagged the rock the better). I then taped up the entire container and finally wrapped it in a towel and taped it again. Throw it in the dryer and let it tumble for around 3-15 minutes, depending on how aggressive you want your stone wash. This simple method, I think, yields the best results for the aggressive type of stone wash I prefer. I never even use my motorized tumbler anymore.
 
MDQBox said:
I dipped it once in FeCl (ferric chloride, aka pcb etchant) for about 5 minutes, stone washed it for about 10 minutes, dipped it again in the FeCl acid bath and stone washed it a final time for about 5 minutes. The most time consuming part was marking out the spots I didn't want etched. All in all, the whole process took around 1.5 hours.

In regards to stone washing, I've tried several methods including getting a motor driven media tumbler and ceramic media. The best method I've found so far (for a really aggressive stone wash finish) was a simple container (Gatorade container will do) with a squirt of WD40 or water and a handful of various sized rocks/pebbles (the more jagged the rock the better). I then taped up the entire container and finally wrapped it in a towel and taped it again. Throw it in the dryer and let it tumble for around 3-15 minutes, depending on how aggressive you want your stone wash. This simple method, I think, yields the best results for the aggressive type of stone wash I prefer. I never even use my motorized tumbler anymore.
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Thanks very much for detailing your process. I was hoping you would do so. :cool: If possible could you post or send a picture of the stones you are using? I really like the result you got on that a lot. I have an Endura Super Blue coming today. I think it will lend itself to this kind of treatment well.
 
ebrguy said:
Thanks very much for detailing your process. I was hoping you would do so. :cool: If possible could you post or send a picture of the stones you are using? I really like the result you got on that a lot. I have an Endura Super Blue coming today. I think it will lend itself to this kind of treatment well.
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The rocks were found in my driveway. They are fairly jagged giving an aggressive stone wash in a small amount of time. FeCL (PCB Etchant) from Radio Shack
IMG_0562[1].jpgIMG_0563[1].jpgIMG_0566[1].jpg
 
Okay that looks beautiful! You've convinced me to do this to one of my knives. For the etchant, do you just fill a tray or something and submerge it for 5 minutes or however long you want? If yes, can I use a plastic tray with that stuff?

What parts DIDN"T you want acid etched? What parts did you cover up?

Thanks
 
That really does look good.

I was actually etching some pcb's last weekend so I may give this a try on one of my user knives with my extra solution.
 
adubbz said:
. . .For the etchant, do you just fill a tray or something and submerge it for 5 minutes or however long you want? If yes, can I use a plastic tray with that stuff?

What parts DIDN"T you want acid etched? What parts did you cover up?

Thanks
Click to expand...

When using the etchant, I use a glass tray or glass jar and submerge the knife usually from 2-5 minutes. Depends on how dark you want your etching to be. You can also do it multiple times if you decide you want a darker finish or screwed up the previous attempt. I attach a wire or string to the blade so I can easily pull it in and out of the solution. I wouldn't use plastic since the etchant is an acid.

The parts you DON'T want etched are:

  • Pivot area, specifically any area that is in contact with the bearings or washers I usually just cover the areas which are otherwise covered by the handle. I use nail polish and a paint pen.
  • Inside the pivot hole
  • The metal area or path where the detent ball travels
  • VERY IMPORTANT - The lock face. If you don't cover this area, the lock will be very rough and may stick.
  • Optional - I also mark off the Spyderco logo and other info. I don't want etched.

Also, be aware that you will need to do a pretty extensive re-sharpening of the knife since the stone washing process dulls down the edge. You shouldn't have to do a re-profiling of the blade, but sharpening is definitely going to be a must.
 
MDQBox said:
When using the etchant, I use a glass tray or glass jar and submerge the knife usually from 2-5 minutes. Depends on how dark you want your etching to be. You can also do it multiple times if you decide you want a darker finish or screwed up the previous attempt. I attach a wire or string to the blade so I can easily pull it in and out of the solution. I wouldn't use plastic since the etchant is an acid.

The parts you DON'T want etched are:

  • Pivot area, specifically any area that is in contact with the bearings or washers I usually just cover the areas which are otherwise covered by the handle. I use nail polish and a paint pen.
  • Inside the pivot hole
  • The metal area or path where the detent ball travels
  • VERY IMPORTANT - The lock face. If you don't cover this area, the lock will be very rough and may stick.
  • Optional - I also mark off the Spyderco logo and other info. I don't want etched.

Also, be aware that you will need to do a pretty extensive re-sharpening of the knife since the stone washing process dulls down the edge. You shouldn't have to do a re-profiling of the blade, but sharpening is definitely going to be a must.
Click to expand...

Why not inside the pivot hole or the pivot area? Just curious as i'm sending something to maprik to have him acid wash the blade and all the hardware.

It's a balisong though so I'm not sure if it still matters...

Thanks for your help.
 
You'll have less friction with a smooth surface, which makes for better blade action. This is why the pivot(s) are block off from surface treatments.
 
evanPGH said:
Why not inside the pivot hole or the pivot area? Just curious as i'm sending something to maprik to have him acid wash the blade and all the hardware.

It's a balisong though so I'm not sure if it still matters...

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

+1 What coiledwire wrote :thumbup:.

coiledwire said:
You'll have less friction with a smooth surface, which makes for better blade action. This is why the pivot(s) are block off from surface treatments.
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I made the mistake once of forgetting to covering up the path the detent ball made on the blade tang. Whenever I opened up the knife the detent ball rubbing on the etched surface made the action feel like it was traveling over sandpaper. I can only imagine how rough it would be if the pivot area was etched.
 
When you acid wash it takes a little bit of the material off. You wouldn't want your pivot hole or Where the washers set getting eaten away. When I acid wash my blades for people I make sure these areas are protected. Hope this helps.
 
MDQBox, great tip to also cover the lock face. I hadn't even considered it until you brought it up.

Awesome tutorial/tips in this thread. Many thanks for putting this together for the masses!
 
Eastwood said:
When you acid wash it takes a little bit of the material off. You wouldn't want your pivot hole or Where the washers set getting eaten away. When I acid wash my blades for people I make sure these areas are protected. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Edit...sorry
 
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