Originally posted by Mike990
So Andrew, how do you know (not just think) the Busse is way tougher than the Dozier?????????
First of all, I misread the model number, and thought it was the professional guide's knife, but I still believe the Busse is substantially tougher. No, I have not owned both, I am purely using reason. Here are my reasons:
1.) The Busse is 1/4" thick (0.250"), the Dozier is 13/64 (about 0.200"). IIRC, toughness/strength (sorry if my definitions aren't perfect) is a function of the square of the thickness of the stock.
2.) The Busse is INFI steel, which is much tougher than D2.
3.) The blade profile of the Busse is more durable than the Dozier. The Dozier has a false edge ground on most of its spine, which reduces its toughness. Also, although I'm not sure of this, I think the Dozier has a hollow grind, which is not as durable as the flat grind of the Busse. Also, again I'm not sure, the Busse looks to have a larger aspect ration, wich improves its durability. The Busse also has a much more durable point (no false edge, and not as fine). The Busse's point is also convex ground, improving durability.
4.) On edge durablity. Again, INFI steel is much more durable than D2. Also, the Busse's edge is assymetrical. One side is convex ground, the other flat ground. This type of edge is tougher than a conventional double v-grind.
Originally posted by Mike990
What if the edge is too thick to slice really well?
If the Busse factory edge geometry is not to your liking (though it is not overly obtuse IMHO), you can quite easily modify it to your liking. INFI is easy to sharpen.
Originally posted by Mike990
How much chopping can you really do anyway with a 6 inch blade any way and why?
I haven't done any chopping with an NO (only handled one), but I have used a Steel Heart (only 2oz heavier) quite extensively, and it can chop amazingly well for its size, comfortably handling up to 5" wood for example (this is for live medium to hard wood, it varies depending on the type and state of the wood of course). Of course their are better choices for a chopping blade, but the NO should be able to handle a good deal of light to medium chopping. Also, it is a good kindling splitter.
Originally posted by Mike990
If Bob Dozier name is on it, it cuts as good as any knife in that size class will.
No argument here. I have used a Dozier before, and was impressed with its cutting ability and quality. I continue to like Dozier knives, and think they have a definite niche, but so does Busse.
Originally posted by Mike990
As for the all the other garbage, I am amazed people dont buy a 7 dollar pry bar from walmart.
I hardly ever use my Steel Heart for prying, purely because I don't pry things much. For me, prying ability is only a small part of the benefits of durability and toughness. Edge durability and resistance to catastrophic failure if one accidentally hits a rock or piece of concrete while chopping is far more important. However, it is nice to know that if needed, the Busse will pry very well (yes, I have done prying tests). Also, when chopping, I often chop into the limb or log, then pry laterally to break out the chip of wood, which often demands high toughness.
Originally posted by Mike990
Who really does all that digging and prying with a 250 dollar knife, and why.
I have never done any digging with a knife, although I've never had to. The only way I see that it is a good test of knife durability is that it is very harsh on the edge. Rock contacts are common, and soil is very abrasive. However, the reason I would dig with a Busse if it was the best tool available is that it can take it.
Originally posted by Mike990
P.s. The Busse NO is cheaper, and easier to get in most cases.
True
Plus, if you ever manage to damage a Busse knife, the Busse warranty has you covered (you get a new knife, or get your knife repaired). That is how much Busse Combat stands behind the durability of its blades.
As I have said before, both the Dozier and the Busse are great knives. The one you get just depends on your intended uses and requirements.