Dragonfly 2 suggestions...

[DREW78]

Hello everyone!

I am looking to add a smaller Spyderco to my lineup. I have decided on the Dragonfly 2 platform, now I have a few questions on 2 specific blade steels offered in this knife.

The first if ZDP. I know about it, but have never had any. this knife would be a backup to my PM2's and would see light work. I want to try ZDP out and think this may be a good way to get into it plus the thickness on this knife looks nice and thin. Can ZPD tolerate a 30deg inclusive cutting bevel without chipping?

The second it the SERRATED H1 blade. I have read stuff here and there about H1. It is intriguing to me, but I am at a loss on what I read. The PE is supposed to be soft but the SE is "work hardened" and is supposed to have really great edge retention? Can anyone clarify this for me or point me in the direction where I can self educate some more? I have Googled a bunch and read a bunch, but am still left looking for a bit more clarification.

thanks to all in advance!!!

p.s. I will have a dup post over on Spyderco's site for those of you who cross over

 

[3rdGenRigger]

My post from the Spyderco forum.

For light work ZDP should certainly hold up at 30 degrees without chipping. The factory edge on most any knife will be a little weaker right at the apex due to the heat generated while grinding the edge bevel, so performance typically improves after a few sharpenings anyways. I've never had problems with ZDP at 30 degrees personally.

As to the H1 question, it is rolled out in sheets if I remember correctly, and is not heat treated. The actual machining of the steel is what hardens it so it's going to be softer at the spine than it is at the edge, and the SE is indeed harder than the PE at the edge, though the spines should be the same. Most people see performance a little below VG-10 out of the PE, but at the edge the SE tests out close in hardness to ZDP and has excellent edge retention.

If you're planning on using the knife in a corrosion prone manner, you may see small rust flecks on the ZDP. It's "Technically" stainless, but very poor as far as that goes due to the high carbon content (Most steels are considered stainless at 12-13% Chromium and ZDP has 20%, but the 3% Carbon is VERY high compared to almost anything so it can corrode). I've seen small rust flecks on ZDP personally, but they rubbed off easily on my finger because they were so shallow, but still something to think about...you won't get H1 to rust no matter what you do with it.

I'd get the ZDP Dragonfly and pair it with a SE Hawkbill Ladybug Salt for your keychain...then you'll be ready for anything.

 

[TravisH]

IIRC, Sal has said that the H1 SE is the best cutter of all Spyderco blades, bar none.

 

[spketch]

Both are great choices.

For a small knife that won't see heavy work, zdp is excellent. No need to worry about the thin edge in that case. It will slice like crazy and stay sharp a good while. Just touch it up before it really gets dull and sharpening is a breeze. I carried a zdp ladybug on my keychain for a year or so with no corrosion issues or chipping.

The serrated H1 is completely stainless, which is nice. A small fully serrated blade has the cutting ability of a larger plain edge. Perfectly at home on a dragonfly. My wife has carried a fully serrated ladybug salt in her purse for several years and has no interest in another knife. It does everything she needs and holds a working edge quite well. Doesn't stay razor sharp nearly as long as zdp but it gets the job done.

I'd keep an eye on the exchange and snag whichever one you see at a good price first. Can't go wrong either way.

 

[DREW78]

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated!

Drew