Dreiturm Solingen folder. Will WD40 & polish save it? 😉

I'mSoSharp

I'mSoSharp

Joined
Mar 8, 2011
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Amazingly the blade looks like it might never have been used. That small part is the only part not totally rusted.

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That's rust pitting that's eaten into the edge of the blade near the end (Sorry about the poor images).

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Only the main blade opens, cork screw & screwdriver/ bottle opener rusted closed.

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I picked it up at a Flea market & was amazed that the stamp & blade etching was still so clear & that's why it came home with me.....
Anyone else pick up "beyond hope" knives?

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That's a cool find.
:thumbsup:


I can't help but wonder if most of the corrosion might be due to outgassing of the covers, if they are celluloid(?). Considering the blade is 'ROSTFREI' (stainless) and shows some rust of its own, it had to be something pretty aggressive.

I've had some luck on a couple of rusty knives, sealing them in a Zip-Loc bag with the knife saturated in WD-40 and wrapped in paper towels also soaked with it. Then left for a few days (3+) to soften up the rust and unstick the blades. Still had to use pliers to grip the blades, to open them - but they opened. Then was able to do more cleaning, inside & out. If the springs/tools are very heavily pitted, they might be prone to breaking if forced open with heavy leverage - so I'd consider that too.

I'd avoid polishing where the etch is, on the blade. Looks like a relatively shallow etch and it might be dimmed or removed by metal polish like Flitz/Simichrome, etc.
 
The first thing I would do is pry off those covers. There's enough left of them to break down further and do more damage. Then, yeah, soak with penetrating oil and scrub with a wire brush. I would leave the rust-contoured edge to be evened out over time with sharpening, but more serious people would grind it back.

I might buy one that far gone if it were cheap enough to say why not.
Like that Frank Buster stockman I watched get worse because I didn't need another project knife. Finally I couldn't stand the way they left it in a bowl to damage other knives. I'll get to that project if I live long enough.
 
Soak in WD40, scrub with brass wire brush (not steel), use a clean new razor blade to carefully scrape rust from the blades. Clean off again with WD40, then assess the state of the steel at that point.

With old rusted knives, I used to just sand the blades, but I learned the razor blade method from restoring old hand saws, and it works great. Sometimes you can get the blades sufficiently cleaned without resorting to sanding. If I sand, I just use 600 grit and as little as possible.
 
Celluloid (probably) should be removed immediately!! I had a similar knife where the Stainless wasn't too bad, but the liners got eaten in half!!! Sometimes removing the covers first, makes cleaning the knife easier!! Have fun!!
 
I won't be attempting any repair as it's really too far gone, my comment was a little tongue in cheek, it really is amazing how rusty it is if it's caused by outgassing, wow.

Anyone know what the FBB gear wheel etch stands for?
 
It could be a Union, could be some engineering firm?

Might even have military connexions?


These days it stands for Female Body Builder ....;)

Yes, Cell is a really lethal scale. Potentially. It might, often does not, but when it gasses little is left unscathed. I'd find out more abut that maker, I'd imagine that stainless appeared on pre WW II German cutlery , as it did on American & English et al.
 
Will Power said:
Might even have military connexions?

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Führer-Begleit-Bataillon
These days it stands for Female Body Builder ....;)
Click to expand...

I've tried searching to find an insignia for the military connection but as yet nothing matching, but have found that Dreiturm did make bayonets for the military so I'll keep looking.

I think it likely is Female Body Builders, that's why the knife is so thin to slip in a bikini 😄

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