Dremel for cutting a choil

jesseaction

jesseaction

Joined
Jun 6, 2009
Messages
509
Hey Guys,

I'm interested in modding some knives and think I need a dremel tool. I searched around a bit since I'm sure this comes up regularly, but most people seemed interested in getting a dremel for lightweight work only. I want to be able to cut a choil into a hardened steel blades (including INFI:eek:).

Can someone please recommend a good brand/model for this task? I don't want to spend more than necessary, but I want to get something that will work and last. It sounds like variable speed and multiple attachments are good. Will I need a special bit to get through steels like INFI? I'm after a dremel because I don't have space for any desk-top power-tools.

Any thoughts are much appreciated!

TIA, Jesse
 
Not sure how big a choil you are wanting to cut, but the Dremel sanding drums work well. You will want to go slow and not overheat the steel so as to affect the temper. I'm using the same variable speed Dremel I've had for 30 years.
 
There are various cutting discs for rotary tools (Dremel). You will have little trouble cutting through some pretty tough steels with the right cutting disc, but be careful to not blow your heat treat.

I will now give you the warnings you have probably heard many many times regarding power tools:

1. The best thing about power tools is also the worst thing: They remove material quickly, so be careful!

2. They do not just remove material from the knife, they can also remove material from your body, so be careful.

3. As with any knife modification, it may be advisable to cover the blade (perhaps with tape) in the off chance you bounce a body part off the sharp edge accidentally.

I hate to sound like someone's mom, but I would much rather see photos of your successful work, than hear stories of your trip to the ER. Happy modding!
 
I have used the sanding drums they work well just take care of the heat they make and take it slow. Good luck and please show us some pics of the results.
 
Thanks a lot for the input and advice! A few more questions if you don't mind..

- Do you think the Dremel 4000 is overkill?

- Is it better to get a cordless, or is it more trouble than its worth?

- Is there a particular brand/model which is solid but cost effective?

I'm reasonably handy with tools so I know to be careful, but I especially appreciate the knife-specific advice, like taping the blade (and handle maybe) and being careful with the heat-treat. You can be sure that I will take this project slow. I'm thinking of cutting a small forward choil into a Busse SAR-3 but there won't be a huge amount of material removal -- mostly just the front part of the talon-hole. I'll probably do the same to a few folders as well.

Thanks again! Jesse
 
jesseaction said:
Thanks a lot for the input and advice! A few more questions if you don't mind..

- Do you think the Dremel 4000 is overkill?

- Is it better to get a cordless, or is it more trouble than its worth?

- Is there a particular brand/model which is solid but cost effective?

I'm reasonably handy with tools so I know to be careful, but I especially appreciate the knife-specific advice, like taping the blade (and handle maybe) and being careful with the heat-treat. You can be sure that I will take this project slow. I'm thinking of cutting a small forward choil into a Busse SAR-3 but there won't be a huge amount of material removal -- mostly just the front part of the talon-hole. I'll probably do the same to a few folders as well.

Thanks again! Jesse
Click to expand...

Eye protection...... Everytime I get lazy and do not put on my safety glasses, something flies up into my face. I do alot of table saw, and drill press stuff. Dremels have little torque, their power comes from the speed, so eye protection is even more important. Have fun, be safe, and pics or it didnt happen.:D
 
I bought my rotary too a couple years ago before I knew how much I would be using it. I knew there was no way I wanted a cordless model (they may work fine but batteries need to be charged and I HATE not being able to complete a job!)

I have done some really intricate work with mine and the cord has never been a problem...I see no reason to recommend cordless unless you for some reason will be working far from a power source...which is silly because you are going to want good lighting too (so buy a nice light that is adjustable).

All this said, I bought a cheap variable speed no-name model and have used the heck out of it. Dremel tools probably have more refined chucks (bit attachment), but honestly I have no complaints.

In an ideal world, perhaps I would have one of the more expensive and name brand units, but so far I have no reason to replace my cheapo (it probably cost 30-40 bucks and came with a butt-load of cutting and polishing bits that actually work quite well for being house brand junk that they toss in to sweeten the deal.

I have a video of it in action if you are interested (click link below).

edit: I forgot that I have no sig on this forum. Here are the videos I was talking about, but they are pretty well worthless for this discussion (I re-watched them and can not make out the name on the side of the tool). Anyway, if you like...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9LFNn1dgpQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u75HXhpxthc&feature=related
 
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unit mentions one of the problems with a cordless rotary tool - running out of battery in the middle of a cut and having to wait until it charges back up again. Here's another: unless you're devout about keeping it charged, you'll be working on something and go to make a cut just to find it's almost dead. Cuss at it (really at yourself) and wait while it charges up.

I have about half a dozen corded rotary tools, only one of which I bought new - a Dremel 395 IIRC. the others I've inherited or picked up cheap at garage sales, usually for 10 bucks or less. A couple each Craftsman and Master Mechanic (True Value hardware store brand) and one no-name imported one that the chuck won't lock up tight. Aside from that one, they all work about as well, but differ in their trigger and chuck mechanisms. Handle the one you want to buy and see if your hand shifts the speed control as you change positions, for example.

I'll tell you this right now: get an extra 402 mandrel or two. Buy 'em when you see 'em on sale. Sometime when you're cutting something, the disc will break and you'll remove the tiny screw to load another one, and you'll drop it or lose it. I haven't found any source for replacement screws, but it's nice to be able to slap in another mandrel and keep going.

Parker
 
I really appreciate all the advice guys, thanks! I was thinking that cordless would be more trouble than its worth. In the case of a drill it can be really handy, since you are usually taking the drill to the job, but it doesn't apply the same way here.

I'm going to look into getting one soon and will report back. Starting on a brand new Busse might be asking for trouble so I'm going to do a couple of cheaper folder projects first.

Before I forget, are there any rules of thumb for how hot the steel can get before the temper is in danger? If it sizzles water, is that already too hot? I'm sure it changes with steel, but I imagine I'll be working with the common stainless steels mostly for a start (e.g., 154cm) and then the INFI if I get brave.
 
I have cut blade choils with the little cutting discs. I haven't needed anything bigger than 1/16" to 3/32" radius hemispheres, and it takes about 10 seconds to do that... even carefully. I wouldn't use a Dremel for finger choils, I use drums in the drill press as Mossyhorn said. The Dremel sanding drums are too big for blade choils. Even chain saw sharpening type grinding stones are too big for blade choils, IMHO.

I wouldn't be without the flex shaft and keyless chuck for one second longer than I had to.

Cordless tools are no advantage unless you are trying to do something away from the house or shop. I would definitely not go cordless without specific need. I hang the machine from the ceiling, and only have to hold the flex shaft. It works very well.
 
Cordless sounds good ,but doesnt work well except on very light duty tasks.Cutoff discs,sanding rolls and bands cut hardened steel well.Also carbide steel cutters give a nice smooth fast cut.
 
dremel has the quick release/change mandrel now,,so no worries about losing those little screws lol
 
Yep. I stocked up on those discs awhile back, so I haven't upgraded to the new kind yet.

If anybody somehow managed to lose or break the 402 mandrel and still has the screw, we can sure make a deal.

Parker
 
If you're using the drum sander attachment, get both grits. The coarse one will leave groves in the steel and the fine one will remove those.

It's going to take a long time and it will require frequent quenching so be patient. It would suck to screw up the heat treat.
 
Check for overheating with your fingertip. If you can comfortably touch the steel, you're plenty safe. If the steel turns blue, you've got problems. Err on the side of caution.

You may want to order sanding drums from a place like Grainger, etc if you're going to need more than a few. I got some 3M brand ones from MSC Industrial Supply... much better quality than the hardware store ones, available in finer grits*, and actually ended up being cheaper as well. *80 and even 120 bands leave a pretty rough scratch pattern; I think going up to at least 220 is good. Hand-sanding small areas like a choil is a big pain.
 
Awesome advice guys, thanks very much.

I was about to buy a new Dremel brand but came across Proxxon which seems to have much better reviews. Dremel reviews make it sound like the new products have nowhere near the reliability of the traditional Dremel tools. The Proxxon 38481 IB/E Professional or 38472 FBS 115/E Precision Rotary Tools both sound pretty good, however---quiet, even power and torque distribution, and reliable. Have any of you guys used one of these or heard of them? German made I believe, and it sounds like they will accept Dremel bits. (Links are below.)

One of the differences between these two is that the Professional uses collets and the Precision uses a keyless chuck. Is keyless chuck going to be easier?

Thanks again!

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-38481-Professional-Rotary-Tool/dp/B001FWXEO6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-38472-Precision-Rotary-Tool/dp/B0017PWTX8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

EDIT: Here is another cheaper one which looks a little different but may also be good:
http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28510-12-Volt-Rotary-Micromot/dp/B000S5J5R6

All the advice is really appreciated and I will definitely get back with results, thanks very much!!
 
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