Dremel to a Mirror Shine question

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Oct 22, 2012
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Are there any issues with using a Dremel to buff 1095 to a mirror finish?

I was going to spin a little Flexcut Gold on my BK2 and see if I can make it pretty.

Lemme know.
 
Pretty small tool for a large area to polish... I'd THINK you would be ok heat-wise, just probably take a long time and be difficult to get an even finish. This is just a SWAG from having used dremels for other stuff, I've never tried to polish a whole blade with them. I'd be tempted to go the classic wet-sanding route, myself.
 
It's real hard to get an even finish. At best, I'd use it to get the rough finish done, then go by hand or larger equipment to get the mirror finish you are looking for.
 
Good points.... It's hard to do it on high grit (3000) water stones due to the uneven surface. I should probably invest in an handheld sander or grinding/buffing wheel.

At any rate, thanks for the feedback.
 
It might be somewhat helpful in the finishing stages, perhaps in combination with hand buffing. Most of it depends on what the steel's finish is, before starting. If the steel is currently only a 'satin' finish, like many blades, the Dremel & compound by themselves likely won't work. Some sanding beforehand would be needed, in a tight sequence up to or past ~2000 grit (wet/dry sandpaper). The 'uneven' finish issues previously mentioned can be mitigated somewhat by regulating pressure (always, always keep it very light) and also by keeping the buffing wheel moving across the blade (don't linger in one spot too long). That point is also important in preventing overheating. Some hand buffing/polishing can help in evening out some of the uneven spots, if they are an issue. And when working near the edge of the blade, be all the more careful; keep the orientation of the spinning wheel such that it's always spinning AWAY from the blade edge. If it spins into the edge, it'll grab and likely throw the tool and/or the knife, if not careful.

The buffing wheel on a Dremel can also be useful in some tight spots on a blade, such as in the plunge grind area, where the blade transitions into the ricasso/tang. Sometimes it's difficult to work in those areas, if only polishing by hand.
 
It might be somewhat helpful in the finishing stages, perhaps in combination with hand buffing. Most of it depends on what the steel's finish is, before starting. If the steel is currently only a 'satin' finish, like many blades, the Dremel & compound by themselves likely won't work. Some sanding beforehand would be needed, in a tight sequence up to or past ~2000 grit (wet/dry sandpaper). The 'uneven' finish issues previously mentioned can be mitigated somewhat by regulating pressure (always, always keep it very light) and also by keeping the buffing wheel moving across the blade (don't linger in one spot too long). That point is also important in preventing overheating. Some hand buffing/polishing can help in evening out some of the uneven spots, if they are an issue. And when working near the edge of the blade, be all the more careful; keep the orientation of the spinning wheel such that it's always spinning AWAY from the blade edge. If it spins into the edge, it'll grab and likely throw the tool and/or the knife, if not careful.

The buffing wheel on a Dremel can also be useful in some tight spots on a blade, such as in the plunge grind area, where the blade transitions into the ricasso/tang. Sometimes it's difficult to work in those areas, if only polishing by hand.

Awesome. Thanks for the help.
 
I wouldn't even attempt to try to shine a blade up with a Dremel. I've never seen anything but horrible results.

Almost everyone has access to an electric drill or drillpress. They make buffing wheels for them. The set from Sears with the compound is not expensive at all.

The difference is night and day.
 
I wouldn't even attempt to try to shine a blade up with a Dremel. I've never seen anything but horrible results.

Almost everyone has access to an electric drill or drillpress. They make buffing wheels for them. The set from Sears with the compound is not expensive at all.

The difference is night and day.

That would be cheaper than other routes - I will buzz over to Sears this weekend.
 
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