-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Dremmel cutting
- Thread starter warrior24
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2001
- Messages
- 1,438
Warrior24, forgive my ignorance, but is 0-1 stainless. If so, forget the dremel, that stuff eats blades like crazy. If not you might have some luck, but you may be better off with a simple jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. I'm not a knifemaker, but I do cut metal at work often enough to suggest that dremels are best used for details and fine cutting, at least in my experience. We usually use them to widen out the strike plates for door latches.
If it were me, and my only tools were a drill press, a hacksaw, and a dremel. I'd drill and follow it with a hacksaw. That being said, if you plan to use a hacksaw, spend a few $$ and get one of the high-tension hacksaw frames. It will make a WORLD of difference in the ease of your saw cuts.
-d
-d
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2005
- Messages
- 4,527
I have done about 20 blades with my dremel- YES it does eat blades. I have found that expensive blades are not much better than cheaper ones (exception being some fiberglass blades). I did it in both 440C and O1- the O1 is definately easier to cut. An integral hatchet I am making took about 6 hrs. to cut out of 1/4 inch O1. Now I am starting to use the drill and cut method as I wanted to save material but am now more concerned about getting knives out of steel. If your designs are very curved you may drill and then need to use the dremel after but that will be determined by your designs.
In regards to hacksaw blades- At work we have both Bi Metal(18 & 24 tpi) And 18tpi Bi Hard Cobalt- does anybody have suggestions on what would be best on 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 & 1/4 inch steel (mostly O1)
In regards to hacksaw blades- At work we have both Bi Metal(18 & 24 tpi) And 18tpi Bi Hard Cobalt- does anybody have suggestions on what would be best on 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 & 1/4 inch steel (mostly O1)
forget what these guys say and use the dremel cut off disc. i can cut through 3/32nds annealed O-1 faster with the disc than any hacksaw. they also work on hardened steels that bandsaws can't cut. so if you have the dremel already spend a couple bucks on a pack of disc.mush cheaper then a new metal cutting bandsaw.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188549&G=66367&I=66370
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188549&G=66367&I=66370
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 1,025
the fiberglass wheels work GREAT, if you have enough of them. I had the unfortunate experience of cutting out a 27" machete from .445" 5160 with my dremel, i think the material wasnt annealed b/c the one hacksaw blade i had(bimetal) it ripped the teeth off after about half an inch
Hello-
I haven't been at it long, but I've cut out about a dozen blades using an inexpensive (around 39 bucks) 4.25 inch angle grinder I bought at Home Cheapo. They have all been either 1/4 or 3/16 1095 or 440c blades. I do the rough cuts with cutoff wheels (the cheapies are about 98 cents apiece). I average 2 cutoff wheels per blade profile. It can't do very tight curves, but if you make relief cuts and make diminishing-angle straight cuts, you can rough in almost any curve, inside or outside. Using this method, I can cut out a 14 in OAL hunting knife in about a 20 minutes.
Then I can pop on a grinding wheel to do a lot of the profiling while it's still clamped to the bench. I can usually get the rough profiling complete enough so that the finish profiling on the belt grinder only takes a few minutes.
It's a pretty fast, inexpensive solution that seems to work okay for me. Eventually, I'll probably move to a plasma cutter or something.
Cheers,
Pat Riley
I haven't been at it long, but I've cut out about a dozen blades using an inexpensive (around 39 bucks) 4.25 inch angle grinder I bought at Home Cheapo. They have all been either 1/4 or 3/16 1095 or 440c blades. I do the rough cuts with cutoff wheels (the cheapies are about 98 cents apiece). I average 2 cutoff wheels per blade profile. It can't do very tight curves, but if you make relief cuts and make diminishing-angle straight cuts, you can rough in almost any curve, inside or outside. Using this method, I can cut out a 14 in OAL hunting knife in about a 20 minutes.
Then I can pop on a grinding wheel to do a lot of the profiling while it's still clamped to the bench. I can usually get the rough profiling complete enough so that the finish profiling on the belt grinder only takes a few minutes.
It's a pretty fast, inexpensive solution that seems to work okay for me. Eventually, I'll probably move to a plasma cutter or something.
Cheers,
Pat Riley
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2005
- Messages
- 2,045
If it's just O1 -use a hacksaw. Cheaper -and faster.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2003
- Messages
- 4,270
If you grind/cut much metal with a Dremel, you will be replacing it soon. The open casing allows metal dust to get in on the windings and it will short them out.
Offset grinders are much better, being made to cut metal.
You would be better off to use a hacksaw and save the Dremel for other things that won't destroy it.
Offset grinders are much better, being made to cut metal.
You would be better off to use a hacksaw and save the Dremel for other things that won't destroy it.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2005
- Messages
- 4,527
""In regards to hacksaw blades- At work we have both Bi Metal(18 & 24 tpi) And 18tpi Bi Hard Cobalt- does anybody have suggestions on what would be best on 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 & 1/4 inch steel (mostly O1)""
Does nobody have an opinion on the differences between the two
Does nobody have an opinion on the differences between the two