Drill index - quality. Which to get?

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Aug 18, 2011
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I am looking into a drill index since I am starting on making knives.

I was curious if the one below is any good?

http://www.harborfreight.com/115-piece-high-speed-drill-bit-set-with-index-528.html

I see some that are $100 with less bits than this one which is only $30. I've always heard Harbor freight was a joke & everything they sell is low end.
Would these last? Should I spend the $100 for the titanium bits? Keep in mind these will mostly be drilling steel, with the exception of knife handle material.

Suggestions..
 
I use 1/4" and 1/8" on a regular basis and the occasional 3/32", 5/32" and 3/16". I would buy a set of cobalt bits 1/16-1/4 by 16ths and a few extra bits of common sizes for you. I bought a few of these sets when they were on sale and I have about $50 in bits that have lasted 2 years and I haven't even used most of the ones I have.
A big set really isn't necessary. If you have to get a particular size for a certian project get one and build the expense into the price.
Del
 
I'm with Del. If you're running a fab or machine shop where you might need to drill something like a letter sized hole, or drill/ream everything and need the exact bit that's an exact size smaller than your reamer, then having the myriad of drills that a large index provides is pretty important.

But for the average knifemaker, I think you're better off going to a place like MSC, Enco, Rutland, and buying the bits you're going to use most in their package quantity (usually 12 for all small-ish bits). These will also be leaps and bounds ahead in quality than the crap bits at Harbor Freight.
 
Also look into screw machine drills. They are shorter version so they are more rigid and usually a little less pricey for the same quality level.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I guess I'll just buy bits as I go & as I need them.

I have $35 in my paypal account, just looking for some things online I'll need for the hobby. :cool:
 
I bought the Cobalt RIGID small drill index at HD and have drilled LOTS of holes with them... use cutting fluid and proper pressure.

Also.... Do a search on here for hole drilling.... questions about drill bits burning up after two holes usually end up with the story being lack of cutting fluid and too little pressure causing work hardening of the steel and loss of temper on the bit....the search function can likely answer EVERY basic question there is... :-)
 
cheap drills are just that. They are usually soft, never mind they cut for, well, you know.

Buy a good 1/16 set, add singles or doubles of the ones you use the most. Don't forget you can sharpen them too when they get dull. That takes some practice though. Don't try to sharpen a tap drill for the first time and walk over to your folder and drill 3 holes to be tapped. Don't ask me how I know....(it wasn't on a knife though)
 
I would avoid the Hong Kong Freight drills for sure. Spend the extra cash on a good set of drills from MSC, McMastercarr, Enco. etc. that you will have forever unless you break one. Also the titanium drills you mentioned are just a titanium coating that do extend edge life but once reground is removed from the cutting edge and is no longer effective. I don't own one but from what I hear the Drill Dr. is good little machine for a home shop drill resharpening.
 
I sharpen my drill bits on the belt sander, then check them with a gauge. The gauge will help you keep both sides the same so that you get nice round holes that are the proper size.Look at the chips when drilling, if only one side is making a chip grind a little off that side. Also match your spindle speed to the drill size, the smaller the bit the faster you turn it. Use coolant, and dont forget your safety glasses.
 
I got a cheap titanium set from walmart and they sucked bad broke most or dulled them to the point they're useless, then I got a 14 piece Dewalt cobalt set for $30 and they're pretty good. I want a Norsemen or another really high quality large set that are $150 and up , maybe for x-mas . I gotta buy a counter-sink and peen this week though , no more half assed "counter sinking".
 
Thanks for pointing out that deal stacy it's great!

Johnathan, did the link take you to the right product? When i clicked the link It took me to a 170 piece set for $99.00. Still not a bad price, but I didn't see the $29.00 set. I'm pretty much set on bits but a good value on a set with multiples of the sizes I used most is always a good find.
 
Johnathan, did the link take you to the right product? When i clicked the link It took me to a 170 piece set for $99.00. Still not a bad price, but I didn't see the $29.00 set. I'm pretty much set on bits but a good value on a set with multiples of the sizes I used most is always a good find.

The 29.99 set is just below it. They are brad point bits and don't seem to have great reviews.
 
You are correct jonny it took me to the wrong one with the 29.99 brad point set below. 170bits in multiples for $30 + shipping... not gonna find a much better price than that for what appears to be decent quality bits. @TLR the reviews seem mixed, but for $50 off I'm willing to give them a shot (meaning I have since ordered them... I owe my dad a few bits :D)

Here is the correct link for anyone else interested http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081568/30005/170-Piece-TiN-Coated-Brad-Point-Drill-Bit-Set-With-Drill-Bit-Gauge.aspx

If I get them before the sale ends (aug27) I'll try and get back to you guys on the quality of the set.. :thumbup:. Brad points may not be great for metal but for handle materials they should be awesome

Edit: In any case this will be a set for all my woodworking
 
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www.maritool.com.

He sells individual drills, and has every size at good prices. Get the stub drills for knifemaking. His are made by Morse, the company who was started by the man who invented the twist drill. Right here in MA.

Coated steel drills are pretty gimicky, IMO, as the coating wears off the edge with the first few holes. Give me a good, uncoated bit over a crappy coated one every time.
 
All of these sets cost less than a good index.

An empty index.

That should tell you something.


I was thinking the same thing
I've always liked a Hout index
Made in USA the sizes are stamped in instead of printed on with ink.
& they fit in a toolbox drawer


But their MSRP prices are pretty cheap.
http://store.huot-store.com/tool-storage/category/dtri-dus.html




Which ones are you using ?


& to the OP


Re Titanium drill bits.
As far as I know, there are no drill bits with a titanium body
The gold coating is a Titanium Nitride coating - maybe reduced friction, but no nearly as important as the HSS or HSS /cobalt material of the drill



I think everyone should have a 1/16 to 1/2 by 64 th set

and I really like having the # set 1-60 for tapping small screws
You could likely just use a few drills that you need, but I like having the set & haveing a place to put them away
the same idea applies-- I like a full set so I know if one is missing


The #60 to #80 drills are out of sight small and although I have them, I've never used them to drill with, just as measuring tools.

If you ever build stuff & need to put a 1/2" bolt through a hole, then you should have a 17/32" drill - maybe with a reduced shank that fits your drill press.
 
I just spent $22.95 on a 22 bit set of black oxide coated bits from Sears, the same quality I have been using for 20 plus years for drilling steel. Forget the cobalt and fancy points, it you use a drillpress and slow your spindle speed and keep oil on the point you will get lots of holes with the plain black oxide Sears bits. Do not buy harbor freight or Vermont American brand, they are soft dull crap. You can get good bits from MSC or Enco as well.

-Page
 
I just spent $22.95 on a 22 bit set of black oxide coated bits from Sears, the same quality I have been using for 20 plus years for drilling steel. Forget the cobalt and fancy points, it you use a drillpress and slow your spindle speed and keep oil on the point you will get lots of holes with the plain black oxide Sears bits. Do not buy harbor freight or Vermont American brand, they are soft dull crap. You can get good bits from MSC or Enco as well.

-Page
 
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