Drill presses...any thoughts?

J

jeffj

Joined
Apr 8, 1999
Messages
439
I want to buy a drill press that works for both metal and handle material.

What HP motor do I need?

What speeds do you use for drilling knife blanks?

What lubricants do you recommend for drilling ferrous metals?

Do you have a favorite brand or can you recommend some brands/models?

What brands/models should I steer clear from? What are the problems?

Where can I buy this drill press?

I've looked at Grizzly imports and they have a model that I like...what do you think of these drill presses?

Thanks,
jj
 
I have three off shore drill presses and they are all ok. Mine have 1 hp motors and that's also ok. I like the Jet brand of off shore tool if I have a choice. The off shore folks are getting much better! You might look at a Sears, I haven't so you on your own!

Speed:
Depends on material and size of drill. Small drills faster speed. A Machinery's Handbook is very useful for info like this! (mine is old and I have seen them in almost every second book store I have ever been in,)
This stuff, at least at our level, dosen't change! If you run your new drill press on the slow side, you'll learn.

I use motor oil for a coolent when I drill most anything. It much better than nothing and is easy to get. I little container sits on my drill press table with an acid brush in it; a little dab will do ya!

If there is a tool supply or hi end hardware close to you, Go look and see what is and how much. Floor model or bench model, you choose. If you are looking at that cute litle one and the one next to it looks a little to big, remember small jobs on the big tool, no problem! Big job on the small tool and your had!

I alway set the belt a little loose on my drill presses, so if something grabs, the belt slips rather than brakeing a drill or worse. Buget for a drill vice and there are some cool clamps the work with the slots on the table, look at Vice Grip! After you have your drill press, you will wonder how you got along without it!

Good Luck

Doug

 
I have a sears table model and it works fine .It has variable pulleys where you can change speeds.So,take a look see.
 
Make certain that whatever drill press you buy has a top quality 1/2" chuck of the key tightening variety. There should be NO runout of a drill when you start it up. Albrecht keyless chucks are nice, but too expensive for most people. Imitations are never of top quality, but might work fine for your use.
Buy a set of 5 "center drills" from whoever you buy the drill press from and use them to deepen the center punch mark and that will get you spot on.
Remember the advice to consult Machinery's handbook or American Machinists Handbook for proper rotation speed with different size drills. I have a 1939 Machinists Handbook and a 1975 Machinery's, and have never found that I had to update the contents.
Lubricating oil will work...sort of. It becomes a a much better and quite sophisticated cutting oil if you add a small amount of Shaler Rislone oil additive, available at any auto parts store.
 
I agree with all that has been said so far except Doug's "loose Belt" theory.

Under a "no-load" situation, the loose belts will maintain a constant speed and the belts will remain at constant tension.

At load, the "pull side" will take up all slack and the "return side" will have all the slack.

If the load is not constant, meaning you lift the drill bit to clear the chips, the load on the pulley will flex the slack between the pull and the return side.

This will cause the drill bit to change speed ever so slightly, but enough for the drill to take an uneven bite out of the metal.

I believe this will actually contribute to the drill grabbing the metal, thereby increasing the chanes of breaking the bit or grabbing the part and start it swinging...

If you do not believe me, test it yourself.

Adjust the belts so they run slack, leave the pulley cover open, put a sacrifical drill bit in, grab some junk stock, clamp in the stock (because your eyes will be else where) and run the drill up and down into the stock.

Watch how the belts torque up and slack off, this much variation can't be good. Remember, the most consistant results occur when the variables are kept to a minimum.

Good Luck!!!

Bruce
 
I will not try to defend my position on the loose belt as I think Bruce makes a good case of tighter rather than looser. The good part about posting here is you often get great differing opinions and food for a good rethink! Thanks bruce! I remember why we went to loose belts, it was because we couldn't get fellow employees to clamp work down so we left the belts loose enouph that stalling the drill press was better than a broken arm. ( I don't work there any more!) Use the drill vice and or clamps or I will come and loosen your belt. Now at my shop, if you won't use the safety gear, you don't work!! It is good being the boss! Thanks again Bruce!

Doug
 
I have a one-quarter horsepower Ryobi bench-top drill press which is fine for knifemaking. Not much else is needed. You can pick up one of these just about any where for right around $100. Sears, Home Depot, and places like that carry these low end models. You just need something that will drill a straight hole.

One other bit of advise I have is PLEASE clamp your blades down before drilling. You don't need you blade going through the lawnmower routine! I know a knife maker that is a shy a couple of fingers! One other thing is to tape the edge with duct tape. About two or three good wraps will do.
I tape the entire business end of the blade. This prevents the finish from getting scratched while drilling, putting on the scales, fingerguard or bolsters, etc.

C Wilkins
 
I have a sears 13-14 inch floor model which works fine.Get at least a 1\2 inch chuck with a key.The floor model will allow you to drill a hole in the end of something pretty long.with a cheap cross feed vise I use end mills to cut slots in guards.Works fine if everything is tight.
TJ
 
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