Drilling 1095

J

jimbowie7

Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
90
I'm not sure why, but everytime I try to drill 3/16" thick 1095 steel, the drill bits crap out.

I'm using a drill press and the same setup goes through O1 really smoothly. I've burned up 3 drill bits on annealed 1095 and wondering why it is so much more difficult.
 
Been there, done that, had that too...

Most 1095 is MILL-ROLLED, and not actually annealed. Test it with a file and it will cut, but it is probably closer to a very soft temper, than actually annealed. The good cobalt type drill bits will go through, but you'll still wear them out faster. HSS bits might not even survive 1 or 2 drilling passes. I had bars of 1084 and L6 steel sent to me as "ANNEALED FOR EASY WORKING" that were still as described above. Ate up several drill bits before I figured out what was going on.

I forge 1095, and my heating processes will anneal the steel before I do any drilling, so it really doesn't matter so much to me. You'll need to either get the bars annealed first if you are only stock-removing. Most commercial heat treat firms do this cheaply and charge by the pound or kilo. Last I checked, my local HT-er charges $1.50 per kilogram for annealing.

Hope this helps. Jason.
 
I normalize a few times (caveman style, so not by the book) and it drills fine. Compared to the 1084 I used to use the 1095 I have from Koval is a dream.
 
Ahhh... That's why it's such a PIA.
 
When you buy the 1095 pay attention to what state it is. 1095 HR is just rolled and not annealed. 1095 HRA is rolled and annealed, CRA is cold rolled annealed etc. If it is not HRA you should do a normalizing cycle or 2. Better yet a full anneal and you should be good to go.
 
I'm surprised no one has said it yet, but if you buy Aldo's steel you will avoid your drill wear issues. His material is annealed and machines very well.
 
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