Drilling and tapping a Manix 2

THG

Joined
May 18, 2008
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I'm looking into drilling and tapping my Manix 2 and Manix 2 XL for tip-down carry. I've done a bit of research, but I've never had any experience doing this before. I'm looking at the following two products:

This is a 2-56 tapered tap:
http://usaknifemaker.com/drills-tap...8-32/2-56-tap-high-carbon-taper-norseman.html

These are 2-56 screws 1/4" in length:
http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-knife-parts-c-30/screw-2-56-button-head-1-4-thread-302ss.html

And my understanding is that I am to use a #49 drill bit.

Does this seem like a sound plan? Does anyone have any other recommendations or better ideas?
 
I would suggest a 5/64 cobalt drill and a thread forming tap from Enco or one from MSC Industrial Supply. 2-56 screws can be found in any number of places in a large variety of head and screw type as well as lengths. I'd suggest the 1/4" in either black or silver color and a button head screw in a T6 (Torx) size. Even the 1/4" may end up being a bit long and you will know if this is the case by whether it dings up a washer or causes the blade to lock up or tighten up in place so it is difficult to open. In this event it will be necessary to reduce the size of the screw lengths and for this the easiest way for a backyard job would be to simply drill and thread two holes in sheet of brass or use a thick glove and simply pass the screws through the clip and cut them off using the clip and thumb to hold them down. Cut them using a thin cut off disc in a mandrel and a dremmel tool or a belt grinder will also reduce them right quick. You can flatten them using a flat file and a block of wood if you want.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I did notice that the screws are probably going to be too long, so I'm expecting to have to grind them down a bit.
 
I have a piece of 1/16" scrap/plate that I drilled and threaded, pretty much like STR except I used some steel. The screw gets put in the threaded hole and tightened. I cut the screw and leave a little extra length. I either file or sand to final length. I like to slightly bevel the screw at a 30-45° angle, this makes it easier to engage the threads. When the screw gets removed from the plate, it will help to straighten out any mashed threads.

Make sure you get a couple of extra screws in case you mess one of them up.

Ric
 
I finally got around to doing this... so far unsuccessfully.

I got done drilling the holes which was no issue.

Then I got to tapping the threads... I broke one on the first hole, which seems like it's going to be a nightmare to get out. The second hole was 100% successful. The third one was almost there when that bit decided to break as well.

I got to wondering why it was so hard... And then I thought about the bit I was using: 5/64". Could this have been because 5/64" is about 8/1000" smaller than #49 (which is supposed to go with the 2-56 tap)?

Edit: Nevermind... 5/64" is actually bigger than the #49 bit...

Also... Any suggestions on getting the broken taps out? Drilling obviously isn't going to do anything, and there's really nothing to grab onto to continue turning them (well there was, but that's what led to them crumpling even more...)
 
You may want to try using a pin punch and shatter the remnants. I cant think of any other way...

Dave
 
Man, I'm not sure what to do to get that out if there is nothing to grab onto. You have to be so careful with these tiny taps. In theory a carbide-tipped drill could work but the bit would need to be smaller than 5/64, and you're extremely liable to break that.

Did they break off when they just got started, and the break was flush with the top? I mean, is there nothing sticking through on the bottom side? No chance at all of getting a needle-nose vice grip in there?

If you can manage to get the tap out, I have some advice for completing the threading. Be aware that if you mangle the threads/holes in the process of extracting the broken taps you may need to move to a larger screw size.

Use the proper size drill bit. If you used an oversize bit that would make it easier to tap but your threads will have less engagement and with a #2 screw there is not much engagement to begin with. You could strip the threads when you go to tighten the clip down.

When you are starting the tap, alignment is critical. Any misalignment will cause the tap to bend, and taps are hardened like untempered knives- they will just snap rather than bend. To help get the alignment right, set it up carefully and use a proper T-handle for the tap. I would remove the liner completely from the knife assembly and lay it flat on a peice of wood. Beforehand I would drill a hole in the wood large enough to clear the tap (1/8" would probably work- you don't want it too large). Line the hole you're tapping over the hole in the wood and clamp both the wood and the liner together to the table top. Now you have both hands free to manipulate the tap, and the liner won't flex on you.

Use lubricant. They make a special tap cutting oil but something like transmission fluid works ok for tapping steel.

The first couple of revolutions with the tap are critical. Set the tap on the hole and eyeball it from several directions to confirm it's perpedicular to the liner. Very gently start rotating the tap. You don't need to push down on the tap, the weight of it will suffice. Once it starts cutting you will feel it get hard to turn. Now you need to clear the chips by rotating counterclockwise for maybe half a turn. Rotate clockwise for a turn, then counterclockwise for half a turn. It's basically a two-steps-forward-one-step-back process. If you don't clear the chips it will get so hard to turn that you'll break the tap. With such a tiny tap I would err on the side of caution and do tiny increments like 1/4 turn foward, 1/8 turn back, at least to start. Pay very close attention to the amount of torque required to spin the tap, if it gets tight don't push it! Back the thing all the way out and re-start it if you have to.

BTW, these are tapered taps, correct? If you got plug taps they are going to be extremely difficult to start.
 
Good advice in that last post. The block of wood will help keep the tap aligned. If you have a drill press I have had good luck using one to hold the tap and start the threads.

The hard part now is getting the broken tap out. Think you can post a picture? If the tap is sticking out both sides and you can't grab on to it, you might be able to put it in a vise and shatter the tap. Probably wouldn't work on a bigger tap but might on one that small. Your last option will probably be drilling it out with a bigger bit and going to a larger screw. You would most likely need a drill press and a vise that will keep the liner from moving. If you don't have that it might be best to send it to someone.
 
Did they break off when they just got started, and the break was flush with the top? I mean, is there nothing sticking through on the bottom side? No chance at all of getting a needle-nose vice grip in there?

The first one broke very early on. The second one broke with quite a bit of tap in there; I think the threads are fully and successfully tapped. But it got to a point where it started "creaking" going both forward and backward.

There's absolutely no chance of grabbing onto anything. There was some sticking out, so I tried latching onto it with a drill and drilling it out. It wouldn't grab, though. And then I tried using pliers, but just grabbing on the tap broke it so that there's nothing to grab onto anymore.

Use the proper size drill bit. If you used an oversize bit that would make it easier to tap but your threads will have less engagement and with a #2 screw there is not much engagement to begin with. You could strip the threads when you go to tighten the clip down.

I don't have a whole lot of experience, but it seems to work very well for the one screw that got in there. I can only imagine that the tapping process would be more difficult with a tighter drill bit.

When you are starting the tap, alignment is critical. Any misalignment will cause the tap to bend, and taps are hardened like untempered knives- they will just snap rather than bend. To help get the alignment right, set it up carefully and use a proper T-handle for the tap. I would remove the liner completely from the knife assembly and lay it flat on a peice of wood. Beforehand I would drill a hole in the wood large enough to clear the tap (1/8" would probably work- you don't want it too large). Line the hole you're tapping over the hole in the wood and clamp both the wood and the liner together to the table top. Now you have both hands free to manipulate the tap, and the liner won't flex on you.

I was doing everything in a drill press. I had the tap in a drill press, and I was turning it manually. The liner was held down with a C-clamp, so it wasn't going anywhere.

And it didn't feel like flexing was the problem, or anything to do with the angle. The taps just got locked up in both directions, and torque is what destroyed them.

If alignment is that critical, I can't imagine what a nightmare this would be using a T-handle by hand :eek:

Use lubricant. They make a special tap cutting oil but something like transmission fluid works ok for tapping steel.

I used Hoppe's 9 gun oil. I have a hard time believing that using transmission fluid instead would make the difference between a successful tap and a broken one, but I don't know for sure...

The first couple of revolutions with the tap are critical. Set the tap on the hole and eyeball it from several directions to confirm it's perpedicular to the liner. Very gently start rotating the tap. You don't need to push down on the tap, the weight of it will suffice. Once it starts cutting you will feel it get hard to turn. Now you need to clear the chips by rotating counterclockwise for maybe half a turn. Rotate clockwise for a turn, then counterclockwise for half a turn. It's basically a two-steps-forward-one-step-back process. If you don't clear the chips it will get so hard to turn that you'll break the tap. With such a tiny tap I would err on the side of caution and do tiny increments like 1/4 turn foward, 1/8 turn back, at least to start. Pay very close attention to the amount of torque required to spin the tap, if it gets tight don't push it! Back the thing all the way out and re-start it if you have to.[/quote]

I did exactly this in the drill press! I did go forward and reverse very frequently, and I felt the need to back all of the way out several times. But the last time I tried to back out, the tap was locked up in every direction...

BTW, these are tapered taps, correct? If you got plug taps they are going to be extremely difficult to start.

They were tapered, yes. Would a plug tap be stronger and less likely to break, especially in the beginning?

Also, would a HSS tap do better in a situation like this?

If you have a drill press I have had good luck using one to hold the tap and start the threads.

Too bad I've had bad luck with this :grumpy:

The hard part now is getting the broken tap out. Think you can post a picture? If the tap is sticking out both sides and you can't grab on to it, you might be able to put it in a vise and shatter the tap. Probably wouldn't work on a bigger tap but might on one that small. Your last option will probably be drilling it out with a bigger bit and going to a larger screw. You would most likely need a drill press and a vise that will keep the liner from moving. If you don't have that it might be best to send it to someone.

I'll try to get a picture, but the taps are about the thickness of the liner. I think I'll have to either shatter them or use some sort of chemical to dissolve them, hopefully without ruining the liner in the process...
 
Any updates on this?

Seems like you were doing everything pretty much the right way. There's a reason even experienced machinists approach very small taps with dread.

Plug taps would not have been much stronger, and they would have been much more difficult or impossible to start because it cuts full size threads straight away. They are meant for threading blind holes all the way to the bottom, and even then you would start those holes with a tapered tap. I only mentioned them for the off chance you were sold plug taps; they would be more likely to break due to requiring more torque to start.

Gun oil should be fine. I wasn't saying trans oil is the ideal lubrication, just what I have on hand.

As far as HSS, in theory it shouldn't matter much for what you are doing, in terms of steel properties. But since HSS taps are more expensive they are normally made to a higher standard, and will cut much better (sharper), so they require less torque. The steel may be heat treated better as well, and be less brittle (relatively speaking- all taps are brittle by nature). In the very small sizes it's probably a good idea to buy the highest quality you can find, they still won't be very expensive.

And while speaking of steel, here's an idea for extracting the tap. Since the tap is carbon steel you should be able to draw the temper if you apply heat, making it soft enough to mark a divot to start a drill bit with a punch/awl. The issue of course is heating up the liners. I'm not sure if the liners are tempered, if this is a liner lock, the liner with the lock bar may have a spring temper, which would probably be ruined. Perhaps if you have a peice of flat steel or aluminum you can clamp the liner to it (maybe drill a relief hole in the plate for the end of the broken tap) and create a heat sink. Ideally you'd use a torch that can get a very fine tipped flame, so that you heat the broken tap directly.

Otherwise, shattering the tap seems the only option. Even if you take it to a machine shop that has a metal disintigrator designed for removing broken taps, I don't think they will work on one that small. It's also too small to weld a "handle" on.

Good luck.
 
If you temper it, you won't be able to shatter it. At least not as easily. I wonder if a spring loaded punch might break it apart? If you grind the punch to a sharper point it will increase the force applied. Just a thought. A sharp punch and hammer might work better? But the spring loaded seems to apply the force over a short period of time which may be beneficial when trying to shatter something? Or maybe an electric engraver?

I wonder how ferric chloride effects stainless steel? I have a feeling since they are both iron based that dissolving with a chemical won't be an option because they both will be attacked.

Just throwing out some ideas.
 
No updates; I haven't made any progress yet. I need to find a punch or something that's small enough to fit without deforming the liner.

Also, I've read on Wikipedia that the names given for taps are different in different countries. In the US, a tapered tap has a large taper, a plug tap has less of a taper, and a bottoming tap is the one with virtually no taper. That is why I asked if the plug tap ("intermediate") would have been stronger.

I guess next time I'll go with some higher quality stuff.
 
You can get broken tap extractors from machine shop supply houses. They have little tiny "fingers" that fit into the flutes of the tap and...with luck...allow you to extract the tap. You need to know how many flutes (grooves) your tap has to get the right one. If the tap is really stuck...the fingers on a 2-56 tap extractor are real tiny and may bend...

The idea of dissolving the tap is not a bad one. The Manix is made of stainless, and the tap is high carbon, so there is probably a mild acid (maybe Coke?) that will do the job without hurting the liner. You don't have to dissolve the whole tap, just enough to free it. This would be worthy of some research.
 
You can get broken tap extractors from machine shop supply houses. They have little tiny "fingers" that fit into the flutes of the tap and...with luck...allow you to extract the tap. You need to know how many flutes (grooves) your tap has to get the right one. If the tap is really stuck...the fingers on a 2-56 tap extractor are real tiny and may bend...

The idea of dissolving the tap is not a bad one. The Manix is made of stainless, and the tap is high carbon, so there is probably a mild acid (maybe Coke?) that will do the job without hurting the liner. You don't have to dissolve the whole tap, just enough to free it. This would be worthy of some research.

Yea, I agree that the best option might be to try and dissolve the tap. Since the liner is stainless, you should be safer in using something a little stronger than coke. Most drain cleaner is highly corrosive. This should do the trick, but I would let some scrap G10 sit in it before using it on the actual handle scale and maybe a piece of stainless you don't care about as well. Though I don't see it harming the stainless steel. I have my doubts on if the G10 could handle it or not though.
 
11 years later, and it is done

file.php


I dissolved the taps with salt water. It took a couple of weeks for them to get small enough to unscrew them from the holes
 
Thanks for the update! I drilled and tapped a Kershaw junkyard dog for tip up carry many years ago. I purchased everything at my local Menards store, I broke one tap and three drill bits. They didn't have any button head screws so I had to get Allen head socket screws but they had stainless steel. I used vice grips to hold the taps because I didn't want to buy a tap wrench, I ended up with one hole being tapped at a slight angle but otherwise it went decently. I used a spare Benchmade clip I had laying around because the Junkyard dog came with a big weird bat wing looking clip that wouldn't work anyway.
 
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