Drilling question

[Taz]

Ok, guys, here goes. I don't know if this will work, but I'll see what you guys think. For drilling pin holes in the tang of knife, I usually use a 1/8" bit for a 1/8" pin. I was wondering if i could use a larger bit, like 1/4" for the same size pin. This would make the knife tang a little lighter and give me more leeway when drilling the holes in the handle material. I was wondering if this would work or if it would lead to excessive cracking when peining because there isnt the metal around the pin to control the peining, just the handle material. What do you guys think? Also, can someone please tell me how to taper a tang? I read the loveless method, but am a little confused. Last question, with a tpered tang, i know to drill the handle holes first, but how does the tapered tang affect the pin holes in the handle material? How do i drill the handle material so the holes are straight and not at an angle when they are attached to a tapered tang? This might be a stupid question, but my brain is too fried from studying to think about it. Thanks!

 

[NickWheeler]

Okay, here's my take:

The .25" pin hole idea I wouldn't do, just because I like my handle slabs to fit up with very close tolerances and using big pin holes wold allow the scales to float around once they have epoxy on them.

As far as the weight, if you taper the tang and or drill other holes with your .25" bit you'll be fine. Personally, for pins, I like to drill with a #32 bit and ream the hole with a .125" reamer.

The peening will crack just about anything if you're not careful. That's why I stick to steels, nickel silver, brass,and micarta or G-10 for peening and leave the rest alone.

The tang can be tapered in a number of ways, but this is what I do... I first draw layout lines to grind to by:

first color the outsides of the tang with layout fluid, then I put the blade down on a flat surface (I use a granite block), then put a shim under the blade and scratch a line on it with a sharpened file tip.

Then I hollow grind the majority of metal out with my Burr King. Then I will either flatten it on my disc sander or on the knifemaker's attachment. Either way I use a wooden block with a pin in it that inserts into one of the rivet holes in the tang so I can really hang onto it.

For drilling the holes.... I made a fixture that holds the blade blank at the ricasso area so that the rivet holes I already drilled before tapering the tang are perpendicular to the drill press table. Then, with the scales clamped on the tang, I just drill away.

You could make a really simple fixture out of a couple blocks of wood and a couple bolts. Knifemaking is mostly about imagination anyway.

Well, that was long winded. Hope I answered at least part of it.

Good luck,
Nick

 

[cjensema]

I really whack the pins on guards and bolsters, but I never pein handle material. I drill and epoxy handle pins carefully and have never had a problem with them coming loose. IMHO peining handle material is not necessary under most circumstances.

 

[Michael_Schaap]

Using 1/4 holes for 1/8 pin.....ahh.... dont do it

I used nowhere near 1/4 hols for 1/8 pins and the pins still floated a bit resulting in a less then professional look then I wanted. I wont be doing this again. Some amount of room is needed mind you... just not a lot.

Michael

 

[Taz]

Thanks guys! I will stick to the 1/8" hole and pins and jsut drill out the tang with the 1/4 in different spots to lighten it. Don't know how to taper tangs yet, but I will learn when i get my grizzly, whenever that may be!

 

[Jerry Hossom]

For bolsters, I use 1/8" holes and 1/8" pins. Sometimes (usually) the pin stock is oversize so I just sand on it a little until it fits snuggly.

For handles, I drill 5/32 or 9/64" holes in the tang. If the tang is to be tapered, drill all your holes before you do that. For drilling the slabs I use a number 30 drill. 1/8" pins will fit perfectly.

For 1/4" mosaic pins and thong hole liners, I drill my tangs with a 9/32" drill and drill the handle material with a size F drill. Works for me.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
The Tom & Jerry Show

[This message has been edited by GaKnife (edited 10-08-2000).]

 

[mikeS]

Taz, For peening I use a carbide burr instead of a countersink this gives a deeper countersink, I think I learned it here.
This gives a little more room for the pin to expand.

To taper a tang, I drill my holes in the tang and handle first.
Then I hollow grind the center of the tang.
then grind it flat on the disc, or platen.

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Sola Fide