Dropped my Southard

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Mar 28, 2013
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141
So while in was working today I dropped my open Southard and did this



Now my question is (since I am so new to sharpening) what do I do to repair this blade?

I have an Edge Pro, so I guess the more specific question is how do I use the Pro to fix this or

do I even try and send the blade to someone with a lot more experience with something like this?

And if I do send it out does anyone have any suggestions?
 
Pretty easy fix... just set the angle you want to sharpen at, use the coarse stone, and work both sides until you get past the damage. Work the whole blade... don't be tempted to just work the damaged area, or you'll end up with a recurve. In other words, just pretend like there's no damage and sharpen as normal, until it's sharpened out.

Helps if you have some kind of magnifier to check your progress.

You could even use the medium coarse stone, if you don't want to be that aggressive on the whole edge... it'll just take a few minutes longer. But I think you'll find this easier than you think it is.

Post the results!
 
Id be more than happy to fix this for you if you dont want to do it yourself. Since you have an edgepro it would just be a matter of setting the angle and sharpening it out.
 
Erase the damages by cutting/scraping the edge into a coarse diamond plate or rock until the edge is damage free. Test by drag the edge on your finger nail edge and do a final double check inspection with a loupe if avail. Without erase the damages first, sharpening will be slow and possibly end up with wavy apex.

Next, use EP to cut new bevel to form a new edge.
 
Start at the highest angle, say 40 degrees per side with a very coarse stone. This will quickly remove the damage. Make sure to do the entire bevel.

Once the damage is gone bring the angle down to 20 or less per side and sharpen until you reach the point you like.

Starting at the current sharpened angle will only cause problems.
 
Start at the highest angle, say 40 degrees per side with a very coarse stone. This will quickly remove the damage. Make sure to do the entire bevel.

Once the damage is gone bring the angle down to 20 or less per side and sharpen until you reach the point you like.

Starting at the current sharpened angle will only cause problems.

I just learned something! I would have tried to take it out at the current bevel setting.
 
Start at the highest angle, say 40 degrees per side with a very coarse stone. This will quickly remove the damage. Make sure to do the entire bevel.

Once the damage is gone bring the angle down to 20 or less per side and sharpen until you reach the point you like.

Starting at the current sharpened angle will only cause problems.

What types of problems?
Your method is new to me and I would like to hear it's advantages.

OP: Since you are new to sharpening I think you should consider sending it to a professional. Starting your learning by completely reprofiling a $200 knife might be too much, imo. It also might be nice to get your knife sharpened by a pro so you can see what sort of sharpness you should eventually be able to achieve. Good luck. :)
 
Mainly over grinding and bevel curve distortion. It's also much slower to remove the damage by sharpening at the bevel angle because the direction you are working is coming in from the sides when you need to grind up.
 
Mainly over grinding and bevel curve distortion. It's also much slower to remove the damage by sharpening at the bevel angle because the direction you are working is coming in from the sides when you need to grind up.

Much slower? Aren't you removing the same amount of steel regardless of the sharpening/reprofiling angle?
 
Yes, but its the way you remove it. Grinding from the side to remove metal from the height is inefficient.
 
Start at the highest angle, say 40 degrees per side with a very coarse stone. This will quickly remove the damage. Make sure to do the entire bevel.

Once the damage is gone bring the angle down to 20 or less per side and sharpen until you reach the point you like.

Starting at the current sharpened angle will only cause problems.

I don't see the damage on this blade as being severe enough to need this... using the EP (and being a new sharpener) it should sharpen out without issue.

But this repair technique is good, and actually preferred if you're comfortable with it, or can be switched to if needed. Again note the point "do the entire bevel".... the problems mentioned later won't occur if you don't focus on the damaged area alone.

Probably substitute "40 deg. per side" with "highest setting on EP" (I don't think it quite reaches 40 deg.)... should do the trick.

If you want to see how it works, go buy $5 knife, ding it up, and do a practice run. :)
 
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