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Drying A ZT 0450
- Thread starter stu770
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This would probably fit better in the maintenance subforum. This particular subforum is for support and feedback about the site itself as opposed to knives.
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its easy to take apart. its also easy to put back together, but... its small and not that simple to get the blade centering strait. when putting it back together tighten the pivot only a little bit then tighten the scale screws, then go back to the pivot. you may need to go back and forth a bit, but it will be strait in the end, it will just take a bit if you don t get it right, right away.
again its very easy overall, just might take a moment longer to get centering perfect, if at all needed, as i did mine.
you could be fine, but the problem is the steel used can resist corrosion but rust proof. so taking it apart and cleaning the metals with something will help. you will need torx bits, i forget the two sizes needed as im not at home atm.
again its very easy overall, just might take a moment longer to get centering perfect, if at all needed, as i did mine.
you could be fine, but the problem is the steel used can resist corrosion but rust proof. so taking it apart and cleaning the metals with something will help. you will need torx bits, i forget the two sizes needed as im not at home atm.
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- Apr 8, 2016
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IKBS doesnt mean they dont have caged bearings. which i found out last year. apparently thats "mostly" the original IKBS design, they now use caged bearings mostly, not always tho. its a consumer nightmare because when i see ikbs i dont expect to see caged bearings, but to ikoma, this is the way it is. their is no designation between the two.
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I don't usually take apart just to clean. If you have an air compressor, you have the best tool for the job. I wash in soapy water, dry with compressor.
With some knives I'll rinse throughly with wd40, then remove as much as possible with forced air again. Personally I think the ZT's run better mostly dry. And it'll collect less garbage in the pivot and bearings in the future.
Sent from my mind....using Tap-a-Thought. (tm)
With some knives I'll rinse throughly with wd40, then remove as much as possible with forced air again. Personally I think the ZT's run better mostly dry. And it'll collect less garbage in the pivot and bearings in the future.
Sent from my mind....using Tap-a-Thought. (tm)
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Welcome. I agree with above. Moved to proper section.
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jun 6, 2000
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- 12,646
The most effective method of drying would be to soak in WD 40. It was designed as a (W)ater (D)isplacer. sPRAY IT ON LIBERALLY, AND DRY WITH A PAPER TOWEL.
There is no need to disassemble any knife unless it's full of sand, epoxy, concrete, etc.
The screws are there for ASSEMBLY.
There is no need to disassemble any knife unless it's full of sand, epoxy, concrete, etc.
The screws are there for ASSEMBLY.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2016
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- 564
Just do it as soon as possible so the chlorine and water mixture doesn't get a chance to settle/erode the components
uxo2
Gold Member
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- Oct 3, 2013
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- 5,451
give it a rinse in regular water to remove the Chlorinated pool water.
If it dried before you got a chance to rinse.
Take it apart if it is within your skill level.
If not.. Give it the entire knife a shot of WD40 and shake out and wipe off excess.
Chlorine will rust almost any steel.
If it dried before you got a chance to rinse.
Take it apart if it is within your skill level.
If not.. Give it the entire knife a shot of WD40 and shake out and wipe off excess.
Chlorine will rust almost any steel.
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2004
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- 4,704
I like to tinker with stuff and take things apart and that said, I very rarely take a knife apart unless it needs to be fixed or to try and smooth the action. To clean a knife it really isn't needed even when full of sand or salt water. I even clean deer, pigs, ducks, etc with a folder and can clean all the dried blood, funk, and grease without taking apart.
Chlorine can cause corrosion after extended periods of time but it's not going to do much one time at a strength that is safe to swim in. There are stainless steps and bolts that sit in pool water for years and don't rust much at all.
If you are worried something is on it or there is something dried on it like blood, fill a bucket with hot water and let it soak for an hour or 2. Pool chlorine is dissolved in the water so flushing with a bunch of water will dilute anything until the concentration of molecules are essentially zero and nothing to worry about.
If nothing is on the knife skip the soak and run the knife under warm/hot water in the sink to flush it and open and close the blade and any lock components that can be moved by hand (pull AXIS lock back repeatedly, press in back lock, etc). As you work the knife, the running water will flush out any contamination.
Then turn the water off and put a drop of liquid soap on the pivot and spread it over any other surfaces. If you put a drop on your finger and repeatedly run it across the space in scales at the pivot it will push and force the soap down into the pivot. Then again open and close the blade and any moving parts. You can then use q-tips, an old tooth brush, and toothpicks to clean any dirt and grease from the scales and inside the knife. If you are worried about the blade and it being in a pristine condition and no scratches, you may not want to scrub it with the brush and just run your fingers down the sides with soap a few times. The brush probably won't do anything but your fingers definitely won't and if there happen to be a grain of sand that could possibly scratch it you will immediately feel it.
Then again, run the knife under running warm water and wash the soap of and flush it clean. At this point I told the closed knife and fling/shake it to fling most of the water out of it. Since you used hot water the metal got warm and the knife should dry fairly quickly on it's own. I've never had even a hint of rust but if worried about it or have a carbon steel blade, you can hit it with compressed air and blow out any water.
At this point the knife should be clean as new. I will use a knife just like this many times if it runs smooth or you can add the smallest drop you can manage of your favorite lube to each side of the pivot right at the washer or so gravity pulls it down if it has bearings. Capillary action will pull the oil into all the small gaps and crevices and if you open and close it a few times it will be evenly dispersed. You only need a very small amount of lube and there usually ends up being excess which just attracts dirt and lint. I've also had a few knives that have various bead blasted metal parts that start to corrode. If that is the case I will then apply a product that is made for corrosion prevention which lately I've been trying Corrosion X. I put a little on a paper towel or q-tip and put a thin layer on any metal surfaces. I get it real wet and run it along the edge between the metal liner and synthetic scale and it gets pulled into the gap. You can put it on the blade if you don't use the knife for food or aren't worried about it. If you are going to use it on food and worried about corrosion use mineral oil that can be picked up in the Pharmacy where it's used as a laxative and a lifetime supply is a few dollars. Mineral oil won't go rancid and it won't get thick and gum up like other food grade oils once exposed to air.
That got much longer and detailed than I planned but hopefully it will help someone out.
Chlorine can cause corrosion after extended periods of time but it's not going to do much one time at a strength that is safe to swim in. There are stainless steps and bolts that sit in pool water for years and don't rust much at all.
If you are worried something is on it or there is something dried on it like blood, fill a bucket with hot water and let it soak for an hour or 2. Pool chlorine is dissolved in the water so flushing with a bunch of water will dilute anything until the concentration of molecules are essentially zero and nothing to worry about.
If nothing is on the knife skip the soak and run the knife under warm/hot water in the sink to flush it and open and close the blade and any lock components that can be moved by hand (pull AXIS lock back repeatedly, press in back lock, etc). As you work the knife, the running water will flush out any contamination.
Then turn the water off and put a drop of liquid soap on the pivot and spread it over any other surfaces. If you put a drop on your finger and repeatedly run it across the space in scales at the pivot it will push and force the soap down into the pivot. Then again open and close the blade and any moving parts. You can then use q-tips, an old tooth brush, and toothpicks to clean any dirt and grease from the scales and inside the knife. If you are worried about the blade and it being in a pristine condition and no scratches, you may not want to scrub it with the brush and just run your fingers down the sides with soap a few times. The brush probably won't do anything but your fingers definitely won't and if there happen to be a grain of sand that could possibly scratch it you will immediately feel it.
Then again, run the knife under running warm water and wash the soap of and flush it clean. At this point I told the closed knife and fling/shake it to fling most of the water out of it. Since you used hot water the metal got warm and the knife should dry fairly quickly on it's own. I've never had even a hint of rust but if worried about it or have a carbon steel blade, you can hit it with compressed air and blow out any water.
At this point the knife should be clean as new. I will use a knife just like this many times if it runs smooth or you can add the smallest drop you can manage of your favorite lube to each side of the pivot right at the washer or so gravity pulls it down if it has bearings. Capillary action will pull the oil into all the small gaps and crevices and if you open and close it a few times it will be evenly dispersed. You only need a very small amount of lube and there usually ends up being excess which just attracts dirt and lint. I've also had a few knives that have various bead blasted metal parts that start to corrode. If that is the case I will then apply a product that is made for corrosion prevention which lately I've been trying Corrosion X. I put a little on a paper towel or q-tip and put a thin layer on any metal surfaces. I get it real wet and run it along the edge between the metal liner and synthetic scale and it gets pulled into the gap. You can put it on the blade if you don't use the knife for food or aren't worried about it. If you are going to use it on food and worried about corrosion use mineral oil that can be picked up in the Pharmacy where it's used as a laxative and a lifetime supply is a few dollars. Mineral oil won't go rancid and it won't get thick and gum up like other food grade oils once exposed to air.
That got much longer and detailed than I planned but hopefully it will help someone out.
sharp_edge
Gold Member
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- Jul 30, 2015
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WD 40 would stink up your knives if you dont mind. Just rinse the ZT with hot soap water then blow dry with an air compressor. Take apart your folders only if absolutely necessary.
115Italian
Gold Member
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- Nov 13, 2015
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Face the facts, it fell in a pool and needs maintenance. The only way to be sure its free of water is to disassemble. My 0562 came apart easily and actually went back together just as easily. Get the two torx drivers. I had some locktite to over come but a little muscle broke it loose. Get some grease and coat the bearings while its apart. A very very lite film of grease is all you need. I put some on my index finger and thumb and role the caged bearing around between them. Your knife will thank you for it.
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jun 6, 2000
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- 12,646
Again, those screws are not for disassembly or maintenance. They are for assembly.
The WD 40 flush will remove all water.
The WD 40 flush will remove all water.
BD_01
Basic Member
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- Jun 9, 2016
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- 3,959
This. My 0801 and I got a little wet at the beach. Pool watter's got nothing on salt water (and a bit of sand). I used the technique above, still good as new.
I'll add that at the end, I always wipe the blade down with a bit of mineral oil (slicing part only, not near the pivot).
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- Mar 8, 2015
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- 135
Is the compressed air in a can safe on carbon steel blades? OP mentioned it in first post and I haven't seen anyone say anything bad, just curious because I'm pretty sure it's chemicals and not air in the cans. I don't want to unintentionally harm my blade by drying it with that if it will react with the steel. Thanks.