I bought one of these several months ago, about 20", and really like it-beautiful and well made. Then, I got an about 16" cak and like it, too--real workhouse and seemingly impervious to harm. Now, the dui is as thick as the cak and really heavy, but I understand it is not rated for chopping wood or similar work. What do folks use these for? I know knivefighting is at best a bad proposition, and given that tenet, the weight of this blade goes against practical martial arts, although I sure as hell would not want to be in its way on a swing-probably cut me in two pieces. I am not trashtalking the blade, but if I can not use such a nice piece of work I will probably try to sell it to someone who can/will and get something else.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
dui chirra
- Thread starter cwdotson
- Start date
I split dry firewood and cut down small softwood trees with mine.
It isn't rated for chopping down a 10" oak.
But who would try to do that anyway? My arm would fall off.
Get a chainsaw...
If i break it from use, i would just buy another anyway.
so
I say, chop on brother.
It isn't rated for chopping down a 10" oak.
But who would try to do that anyway? My arm would fall off.
Get a chainsaw...
If i break it from use, i would just buy another anyway.
so
I say, chop on brother.
sweetcostarica
BANNED
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2012
- Messages
- 619
What do folks use these for? Just was GoodStuff said: I split dry firewood and cut down small softwood trees with mine.
I know knivefighting is at best a bad proposition, and given that tenet, the weight of this blade goes against practical martial arts, although I sure as hell would not want to be in its way on a swing-probably cut me in two pieces.The original intent of the Nepali Kukri was as a farm tool and weapon. Today, the export Kukris have changed that because of the wants, likes, and desires of the foreigner (I do not use this term in a bad why). The export Kukri has gotten heavier, thicker spines, overbuild, and basically, less traditional. Again not saying it's a bad thing if someone likes this. I'm saying this limits you to chopping and splitting wood.
The most useful Kukris Himalayan Imports makes from my experience are the more normal weighted, thinner spines, and more traditional shaped Kukris. With these you get a fighting weapon too. As a last resort, if you're out of bullets then it's Khukuri time. It might save your life in a last ditch fighting move.
From Himalayan Imports I recommend:
1st Generation Foxy Folly, KLVUK, 19 - 20 oz BAS/BSI, 18 inch Sirupates, and most normal weighted traditional Villager models.
Edit below
Here's one reason why the axe is used instead of the Kukri for heavy-duty chopping work:
The axe has all it's weight in it's head and so the shock of the chop goes mostly into the steel part of the axe. An axe is much tougher than any large knife.
With a Kukri the chop's force is transferred into the entire blade. As you chop harder things with less "give" more and more shock is applied to the Kukri (especially if you don't use the two finger Asia style loose grip). The first thing that is broken or wore out is the handle of the big knife. It cracks and/or loosens. So splitting dry firewood and cutting down small softwood trees with mine, as was said is best for the longevity of your tool and investment. That's easy and efficiently taken care of with the above mentioned Kukris.
I know knivefighting is at best a bad proposition, and given that tenet, the weight of this blade goes against practical martial arts, although I sure as hell would not want to be in its way on a swing-probably cut me in two pieces.The original intent of the Nepali Kukri was as a farm tool and weapon. Today, the export Kukris have changed that because of the wants, likes, and desires of the foreigner (I do not use this term in a bad why). The export Kukri has gotten heavier, thicker spines, overbuild, and basically, less traditional. Again not saying it's a bad thing if someone likes this. I'm saying this limits you to chopping and splitting wood.
The most useful Kukris Himalayan Imports makes from my experience are the more normal weighted, thinner spines, and more traditional shaped Kukris. With these you get a fighting weapon too. As a last resort, if you're out of bullets then it's Khukuri time. It might save your life in a last ditch fighting move.
From Himalayan Imports I recommend:
1st Generation Foxy Folly, KLVUK, 19 - 20 oz BAS/BSI, 18 inch Sirupates, and most normal weighted traditional Villager models.
Edit below
Here's one reason why the axe is used instead of the Kukri for heavy-duty chopping work:
The axe has all it's weight in it's head and so the shock of the chop goes mostly into the steel part of the axe. An axe is much tougher than any large knife.
With a Kukri the chop's force is transferred into the entire blade. As you chop harder things with less "give" more and more shock is applied to the Kukri (especially if you don't use the two finger Asia style loose grip). The first thing that is broken or wore out is the handle of the big knife. It cracks and/or loosens. So splitting dry firewood and cutting down small softwood trees with mine, as was said is best for the longevity of your tool and investment. That's easy and efficiently taken care of with the above mentioned Kukris.
Last edited:
Thanks for responses. And, I personally feel that blades are effective in serious applications, as long as one isn't over 21 feet or so from a firearm. I've seen what even a Case XX pocketknofe can do when used by someone experienced and ruthless, and it ain't pretty. My comments on knife combat and such was a prophylactic against one of my pet peeve responses, listed below, on threads.
And, I agree about superduty chopping in general-I like my 16" CAK for outdoors stuff. It can split firewood and take down SMALL trees, the later very rarely needed, without worrying about breaking an axe-handle. I know that doesn't happen much, but one less thing to deal with when I am out in the boonies for a week or more.
1. Never take a knife to a gunfight or knives are not for self-defense or something similar.
2. I chopped hardwood 8 hours straight with {insert brand} and the edge still shaved my face when I was done.
3. It is the user, not the tool (granted, but better tools for better users beats poorer tools with better users).
4. The best survival/SHTF/selfdefense/spreading peanut butter is the knife you have on you.
Sorry, I am done now.cwd
And, I agree about superduty chopping in general-I like my 16" CAK for outdoors stuff. It can split firewood and take down SMALL trees, the later very rarely needed, without worrying about breaking an axe-handle. I know that doesn't happen much, but one less thing to deal with when I am out in the boonies for a week or more.
1. Never take a knife to a gunfight or knives are not for self-defense or something similar.
2. I chopped hardwood 8 hours straight with {insert brand} and the edge still shaved my face when I was done.
3. It is the user, not the tool (granted, but better tools for better users beats poorer tools with better users).
4. The best survival/SHTF/selfdefense/spreading peanut butter is the knife you have on you.
Sorry, I am done now.cwd