dumb question time, has anyone...

V

vikingGoalie

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Aug 20, 2019
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so i'm still firmly in the stock removal part of my blade making journey.
simple profiles are easy, but i never like easy (apparently) so currently i'm making a hand axe/knife thing.
i'm actually trying this on a circular saw blade that I know will harden because i've made a blade out the other part of it and tested that.
But it's also free donor material to learn with so when i get known material if i like this pattern and think it's useful will move on to that.

So stock removal with the shape i'm going with is a little bit of a pita, this is a very rough cutout still refining it.
photos.app.goo.gl

New item by Carl Christianson

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

so not for gross removal, but I was wondering if I took my router table, and put in a bit like this

would doing some stock removal for the inside part of that be crazy to attempt with that, (or overly dangerous). I mean i'd cut most of it out with an angle grinder, in this case it took a bit of careful worth with that to get that inside shape but was thinking the very rough inside hole use the angle grinder, use the burr bit fo rmetal for the general shape and then use a sanding drum bit to get it refined.
 
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i'd have to get, or fabricate something to hold the dremel so i can use it like the router table.
I have used a dremel in the past which gives you fine control of speed. but the dremel doesn't (at least mine) doesn't remove material very quickly.
The table lets me control the object much bettter and ensures a consist 90 degree on the edge so i'm not dealing with dressing that down the road.
i'm looking at this as something where rough cuts with the angle grinder to get me semi close to the rough outline, then something that can eat metal in a more controlled way to finish the outline, then sanding that outline to make it finished
 
vikingGoalie said:
so i'm still firmly in the stock removal part of my blade making journey.
simple profiles are easy, but i never like easy (apparently) so currently i'm making a hand axe/knife thing.
i'm actually trying this on a circular saw blade that I know will harden because i've made a blade out the other part of it and tested that.
But it's also free donor material to learn with so when i get known material if i like this pattern and think it's useful will move on to that.

So stock removal with the shape i'm going with is a little bit of a pita, this is a very rough cutout still refining it.
photos.app.goo.gl

New item by Carl Christianson

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

so not for gross removal, but I was wondering if I took my router table, and put in a bit like this

would doing some stock removal for the inside part of that be crazy to attempt with that, (or overly dangerous). I mean i'd cut most of it out with an angle grinder, in this case it took a bit of careful worth with that to get that inside shape but was thinking the very rough inside hole use the angle grinder, use the burr bit fo rmetal for the general shape and then use a sanding drum bit to get it refined.
Click to expand...
I am not sure what you ask , but if you want to shape that thing from inside use half round file ?
 
vikingGoalie said:
would doing some stock removal for the inside part of that be crazy to attempt with that, (or overly dangerous). I mean i'd cut most of it out with an angle grinder, in this case it took a bit of careful worth with that to get that inside shape but was thinking the very rough inside hole use the angle grinder, use the burr bit fo rmetal for the general shape and then use a sanding drum bit to get it refined.
Click to expand...
My tool for Dremel

ghp11X0.jpg
 
vikingGoalie that might actually work. I'd just be wary of how much pressure you put on it as I'm not sure how much lateral pressure the routers can handle, it likely depends on the manufacturer. I do know from experience that they can handle quite a bit. I'd recommend getting a variable speed switch for it as those suckers spin FAST. You'll be producing some heat with it for sure, careful you don't gum up the cutter. Definitely wear face and eye protection!!

Eric
 
N Natlek that looks awesome i'm trying to do something similar but instead a router table where the bit comes up from the bottom.
ea42 ea42 absolutlely on the protection, I don't have a variable speed router, might have to work on that so it does spin super fast. essentially what i'm trying to do is like CNC machine that uses a bit like this, but instead it's a router table and i move the piece around the bit. The high speedness of the router concerns me, but supposedly the router bit is engineered precisely for this.
the other thing with using a router table is allows me to more easily use a jig, i'm a big fan of using a jig to shape things. A file is fine, i've bevelled a knife from scratch in camp with one, that was not a quick process ;) I'm looking to use power tools when possible.
thx everone i'll let ya know how it goes once i get this set up.
 
You guys are going to be throwing needle-sharp little shards of metal everywhere!
And, that's if the speed of the router doesn't grab the work and cut your fingers off! A 1 HP router is not like a little Dremel. There are Dremel router tables available but unless you use a sanding drum instead of a metalworking bit, you will still have the shards of metal.
There is a good reason metal-working tools run much slower than woodworking tools.
They make plug-in router speed controls that might make this doable. Not sure how low they will decrease the speed. I have the control, but no router.
 
vikingGoalie said:
N Natlek that looks awesome i'm trying to do something similar but instead a router table where the bit comes up from the bottom.
ea42 ea42 absolutlely on the protection, I don't have a variable speed router, might have to work on that so it does spin super fast. essentially what i'm trying to do is like CNC machine that uses a bit like this, but instead it's a router table and i move the piece around the bit. The high speedness of the router concerns me, but supposedly the router bit is engineered precisely for this.
the other thing with using a router table is allows me to more easily use a jig, i'm a big fan of using a jig to shape things. A file is fine, i've bevelled a knife from scratch in camp with one, that was not a quick process ;) I'm looking to use power tools when possible.
thx everone i'll let ya know how it goes once i get this set up.
Click to expand...

You can get one of these to make your router a variable speed unit. There are several models out there, this is just one of them. I have a different model that slows it down to almost a stop. Definitely wouldn't recommend using a router on that project without one.



Eric
 
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You're going to lose limbs or digits. What you're doing is using a router bit like an end mill, and holding the steel in your hands. In the first place you can't hold it, in the second you can't control it. In the third place it's gonna grab and maim you.
What the picture shows is a relatively simple job for a small wheel attachment, and that's dangerous too.
Small drum sander is the safest bet.
Safety takes a little time, but stupid lasts forever.
 
Glad to hear that, Viking. I've seen some wild stuff happen on manual mills, with the workpiece clamped down. Always best to avoid self harm. We get banged up enough as it is!
It seemed people were telling you HOW to do it, but no one told you NOT to do it.
Let us see the finished piece!
 
Keith I second what vikingGoalie said, I didn't really think that recommendation through, at all. Got a picture in my mind of how easy it is to do that with wood and never considered the unforgiving aspects of steel. Thanks for the words of wisdom and the reality check!

Eric
 
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Yes you did Bill, in fact everyone did but me. I'm definitely not a good influence.

Eric
 
You did Bill. My apology for overlooking your post!
 
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