Dunn S60V Semi-Skinner....what kind of edge?

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Sep 25, 2009
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So the question is if you were setting up said knife for a dedicated skinner ie no boning, no ball joints, no sternum cracking etc, strictly skinning. What edge would you put on it, angle and finish level. Im not familiar with this steel, thought I'd ask around before I jumped on it. Thanks.
 

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15 degree bevel polished to the moon :)
 
Well that'll do. If I have a default edge, go-to edge, its pretty much what you just described. Thanks brother.

As a side note, its crazy that remember when I bought this knife a year or so ago how sharp I thought it was. Looking at it now, the bevels are uneven and it's not even in the ball park for what I call sharp haha. Amazing how perspectives can change with time and knowledge.
 
I've never used S60V, but in recent hunting expeditions with CPM M4 (and cutting abrasive materials with S90V) I have found polished worked good, but with CPM M4 it actually cut better (as skinning is pure slicing, not push cutting) as the edge wore and got some tooth in it. I've found in S90V a hair popping edge with a DMT Coarse slices great and lasts pretty long, but a better compromise might be a 1200-2000 grit edge with a light stropping to remove any burrs and make the edge a little finer. Again, I'm not sure about S60V, but I know S90V likes a coarser edge than M4, but both do pure slicing cuts better for me when not polished to the moon. As I've found out M4 at .05 micron will easily take a pig apart and be ready for more, but again it seemed like a bit coarser edge would have been a better finish for the pure slicing cuts of skinning, but you can pretty much count on those Vanadium carbides that fill S60V will definately get exposed as you cut more, so even polished to the moon the knife should end up wearing into a toothier edge that slices better for you if it starts out polished to the moon, but you will just have to use more force initially to make the cuts in my experience.

Mike
 
Southern, I've built knives out of S60V and it has good edge retention . Its hard to work w/ heat treat is tricky and I don't care to polish the entire blade . For skinning its a better performer sharpened to 400-600 grit as thats a slicing motion . I've taken mine to a polished edge using the Spyderco fine and it push cuts very well at that level . That steel gets real sharp, holds it well and is an excellant stainless . In the photo I couldn't determine how thick the edge is but the shape looked good for your desired activity . DM
 
Actually its a VERY deep hollow grind, very thin at the edge. It is a well thought out skinner to be sure.

I had read that S90V liked a bit of tooth left in it for slice cutting (as was noted, skinning is one of the purest forms of such). On my dedicated kitchen slicer/boning knife I do 600 grit (DMT F), then a few strokes on a hard felt pad spiked with some of Keith's 1 micron Diamond spray and it flat out SLICES haha. I may compromise with this one and go to the DMT EF and then stropped at 1 micron on the felt pad, a pretty fine edge but certainly some tooth left in it.

Reckon I just need to kill more deer and experiment...been a slow season so far, only one lonely button buck (190 yrds out, thought it was a doe :( ) Though he was a reallllyyyy good eater, even the gf was down for some roast from him, zero gamey taste. :D
 
I've never used S60V, but in recent hunting expeditions with CPM M4 (and cutting abrasive materials with S90V) I have found polished worked good, but with CPM M4 it actually cut better (as skinning is pure slicing, not push cutting) as the edge wore and got some tooth in it. I've found in S90V a hair popping edge with a DMT Coarse slices great and lasts pretty long, but a better compromise might be a 1200-2000 grit edge with a light stropping to remove any burrs and make the edge a little finer. Again, I'm not sure about S60V, but I know S90V likes a coarser edge than M4, but both do pure slicing cuts better for me when not polished to the moon. As I've found out M4 at .05 micron will easily take a pig apart and be ready for more, but again it seemed like a bit coarser edge would have been a better finish for the pure slicing cuts of skinning, but you can pretty much count on those Vanadium carbides that fill S60V will definately get exposed as you cut more, so even polished to the moon the knife should end up wearing into a toothier edge that slices better for you if it starts out polished to the moon, but you will just have to use more force initially to make the cuts in my experience.

Mike

I'll let you know next season some experiences with M4. My LFTi is going out to Tom Krein for a drop-point regrind and some thinning, and Im on the list for the Spydi M4 Millie due out this spring (gonna be a loooong winter waiting on that one :cool: ). See if I can't bloody at least one of those two next season.
 
I'll let you know next season some experiences with M4. My LFTi is going out to Tom Krein for a drop-point regrind and some thinning, and Im on the list for the Spydi M4 Millie due out this spring (gonna be a loooong winter waiting on that one :cool: ). See if I can't bloody at least one of those two next season.

I had a LFTi that got a Krein Grind to a .012" hollow grind drop point, and it was night and day from the axe thick tanto grind from the factory. I am also on the list for that Millie, it should be a real pleasure. If you hurry, at a certain knife site that a guy named Roger makes work there may be a few M4 Benchmade Rifts left (only $145 for a 1 of 50 knife). I have the 154 CM version already, and it has a nice thin hollow grind (almost Krein grind thin) and it tested at 61 RC and really performs. I had to order myself the M4 version, as it's less than $35 more than the 154 CM version. I personally love the knife, as it cuts great and really performs, and M4 will just make it that much better. CPM M4 is currently my favorite steel for it's edge retention, toughness, and unreal attainable sharpness. It is a wonderful balance of those 3 traits, but it does need to be wiped down and kept dry (a coat of mineral oil never hurts either) to keep rust away.

Mike
 
I had a LFTi that got a Krein Grind to a .012" hollow grind drop point, and it was night and day from the axe thick tanto grind from the factory. I am also on the list for that Millie, it should be a real pleasure. If you hurry, at a certain knife site that a guy named Roger makes work there may be a few M4 Benchmade Rifts left (only $145 for a 1 of 50 knife). I have the 154 CM version already, and it has a nice thin hollow grind (almost Krein grind thin) and it tested at 61 RC and really performs. I had to order myself the M4 version, as it's less than $35 more than the 154 CM version. I personally love the knife, as it cuts great and really performs, and M4 will just make it that much better. CPM M4 is currently my favorite steel for it's edge retention, toughness, and unreal attainable sharpness. It is a wonderful balance of those 3 traits, but it does need to be wiped down and kept dry (a coat of mineral oil never hurts either) to keep rust away.

Mike

Mike I been eyeing that knife so much lately Roger gonna start charging me rent for so many clicks on the page lol. I love the Rift in general, and Im right there with you on M4. I think its 'bout the best thing going right now if, as you said, you can keep your stuff clean. I own a respectable bevy of carbon knives, I have no issue with a non-stainless knife. Ive got that LFTi stoooopid sharp right now, that stuff polishes like no other!! But it is a friggin tank. If I felt some undying need to punch holes in some mild steel it'd be just the ticket. But yeah, Mr. Krein will be getting a whack at that one, as well a Manix 2 154CM and an Endura FRN VG10 (3rd gen I believe, its not a 4 I know). I'll do a post on all three when I get 'em.

Tom
 
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