Duracoat Air Brush??

M

Morkte

Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Messages
243
Hey Guys
I'm interested in duracoating some blades. Can anyone recommend a decent airbrush for about $20, no more that $30???
Thanks Guys
 
I have'nt used it yet. I bought an inexpensive model to learn on.After having a blade professionaly duracoated i wanted to do some myself. I think i bought the Testors brand. It's for model making. It has everything you need. It has the airbrush itself. I think it has 2 or 3 tips, 2 cups which are glass,1/4 " npt fitting and a section of airhose. It can be used with a copmressor or aerosol cans they also sell.I was impressed with all that it came with even if it is made in China. They also have everything you need to uprgrade to a professional set up if and when you desire. I was going to set it up and practice with just water in it to get started. just have'nt got around to it yet.
 
The Duracoat follks used to sell a kit that had a decent though economical air brush included.
 
Unless you're dead set on duracoat take a look at having it cerakoted. cerakote is a bake on finish that will handle abuse better than duracoat. for something small like a knife I don't think it would cost much.
 
Brownells sells similar product called GunKote, which is also oven cured and comes as a pre-mixed spraypaint.

Regarding airbrushes, why would you want to go with cheapest model? You will be applying expensive coatings to your (expensive?) knives. Plan to do this on guns as well? Why would you want to deal with paint sputter or blobs on your knife? None of these coatings are easy to remove when applied, even before it cures.

I'd hate to see you ruin a knife because you decided to go with the cheapest airbrush.
 
Ok Thanks Guys.
I was going to start of with an expensive airbrush in case I dont like duracoat. I just wanted to do one thing to make my knives my own. Instead I have decided to do kydex sheaths. I thought I would get function as well as the 'cool' factor, thanks to CWL I think sheaths will be a better option.
Thanks again
 
Morkte said:
Ok Thanks Guys.
I was going to start of with an expensive airbrush in case I dont like duracoat. I just wanted to do one thing to make my knives my own. Instead I have decided to do kydex sheaths. I thought I would get function as well as the 'cool' factor, thanks to CWL I think sheaths will be a better option.
Thanks again
Click to expand...
Kydex is a pretty cool material to work with but trust me, you'll start making kydex sheaths for things that just don't need sheaths. it happened to me!lol
 
I have a badger 350 that I use for Gunkote and Molyresin. I don't recommend it honestly. I like it, but the seals don't stand up to cleaning with laquer thinner or acetone/mek like you need for these sorts of coatings. Try the cheap D/A harbor freight airbrushes, according to folks they're pretty good for the price and the practical equivalent of much nicer airbrushes. Learn on one of those before you invest in a really nice one. If my badger ever kicks the bucket I'll be replacing it with one of those.

The one thing I'll strongly recommend no matter the airbrush, especially with duracoat, is to clean the airbrush with the proper solvent asap. Duracoat is a 2 part catalyst finish, if it dries in the gun it's done for. Same goes for any air cure finish like 1200 series gunkote. With the oven cure finishes like 2300 and 2400 gunkote and Molyresin you can be a bit lazy since laq. thinner or mek will clean them up even after a week as long as they're not oven cured.
 
justinspin said:
Kydex is a pretty cool material to work with but trust me, you'll start making kydex sheaths for things that just don't need sheaths. it happened to me!lol
Click to expand...
Do you have any tips for a beginner???? What should I get to start making them?
 
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