Duracoat

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Petie

Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
62
Has anyone ever used duracoat on a knife blade. I know it looks great on a gun and wears excellent. I have a guy that wants one of my drop points with a matte black finish on the blade. From what I've seen and read about duracoat it might be the way to go. Thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
 
Looks good, wears well. Google "nutnfancy duracoat" for a few youtube videos. Plenty of folks have duracoated knives with good results. :thumbup:

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I've had a couple knives Cerakote'd at customer request, was $10/knife to have it done locally (prep and application) and it turned out great. Never tried Durakote before but they are somewhat similar; I say go for it!
 
I have worked with it all and yes while Duracoat and Gun Kote are a little easier to work with Cerakote is a more durable product.
 
Thanks guys. I got a test subject ready for when it gets here. I'm using matte black on a bead blasted blade.
 
Make sure it is not bead blasted prior to applying. Beads polish the surface and you need a rough surface. 120 grit aluminum oxide is great to prep metal for coating.
 
duracoat and gunkote = paint.

Cerakote = epoxy ceramic hybrid

Not likely you will find someone to Cerakote one blade.

As mentioned before, grit blast, not bead blast, or it wont stick properly.
 
shotgunner said:
duracoat and gunkote = paint.

Cerakote = epoxy ceramic hybrid
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Ceramics, bingo, we have a winner.

To be fair, I haven't tested durakote or gunkote, but I've heard enough other makers complain about the results, that I looked for something better. And I believe I've found it.

Call your local hot-rod/speed shops etc and ask who does the ceramic powder-coating on their hi-perf exhausts and whatnot. (the guy who does my coated blades normally works on racing snowmobile parts.)

That stuff is tough as can be and available in lots of colors, gloss or dead flat. First time I visited my guy's shop, I challenged his coating's durability. He just smiled, handed me a piece he'd just finished and a flat-head screwdriver, and said "Go for it!" I managed to scratch it some, but not much. On finished blades, I've found it leaves a clean crisp line where you grind/polish the final edge, without chipping back. I am extremely confident it will stand up to rough use. You basically have to grind it or re-blast it to get it off the steel.

Very cost-effective, too; unlike the $100 or more I've seen folks asking to do one blade with the "kote" stuff, the small amount he charges me cancels out the time/paper I would normally spend finishing a blade. I don't have to charge my clients extra, it's a free option. It just might take a week longer depending how busy my coating guy is.

I only have to take the blade to 220-300; he grit-blasts it as part of his surface-prep. It's baked on at 375F, which doesn't harm the temper of the blade. :thumbup:
 
I got a buddy that's opening a powder coat shop but it'll be a few months. I already talked to him about it and he said no problem. I can't wait that long on this knife but when he opens that's where they'll be goin.
 
I do cerakote weekly. I am factory trained by nic industries. I have done a few on my own knives it hold very well. If anyone would like to try it I will be happy to do a blade for you at a very fair price.
 
Interesting thread. I was just about to ask about re-coating a cold steel SRK. I have one that has lost alot of the coating on the blade. It was on my webbing for years and extensively. Would there be an issue with adhering to the handle? I am thinking a cerakote; have to find someone in Australia..
 
DC AFG said:
Interesting thread. I was just about to ask about re-coating a cold steel SRK. I have one that has lost alot of the coating on the blade. It was on my webbing for years and extensively. Would there be an issue with adhering to the handle? I am thinking a cerakote; have to find someone in Australia..[/QUOTE

Does the SRK have a rubber handle? Cera kote for the most part will adhere to any thing if you prep it properly. I do glock and XD frames all the time and it holds fine, but rubber I'm unsure of.
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Rubber is a no go imo.... Plus it won't do well in a oven. You could tape off the scales and lower the cure temp but I don't like doing that as you don't get as good of a finished product.
 
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