Dye transfer?

[Salolan]

I was showing a friend of mine (who happens to be a saddle maker/shoe repairer) one of my more recent sheaths for a critique. He commented that he never dyed any of his leather sheaths to avoid any issues with dye transfer. This got me wondering if I need be worried about it.

I am using Eco-Flo Professional Water Stain and Eco-Flo All-in-One stain and finish depending on which color I want. Do I need to worry about dye transfer for the end user with these products? If it matters, after completion I rubbed them down with Pure Neatsfoot Oil.

Do I need to switch products or am I worrying about nothing?

Thank you,
Chris

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I'd like to know too. I know for sure that it can be an issue under certain circumstances, so I'd like to know the best way to avoid it.

 

[leatherman]

Water based dyes do not penetrate as deep as the other dyes. The pigment seems to always leave a powdery residue on the leather surface as well.

My best method for getting as much of the pigment off as possible: rub the leather down very well with a clean soft cloth using different parts of it till you dont see anymore coming off. Your on the right track with the neatsfoot oil, then you want to use a good sealer (wax, acrylic, and or laquer)

Otherwise, the alcohol based dyes, though more expensive, do penetrate deeper but will still leave some pigment on the surface. The much more expensive Pro Oil dye is the best of the group for not leaving a residue behind.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

then you want to use a good sealer (wax, acrylic, and or laquer)

When you say wax, do you mean actual wax, or a product like that Fiebings balm with atom wax?

Can beeswax be used as a final sealer?

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Just an update. I dyed the inside of my sheath when making it and have had no transfer to the natural g10.

 

[Zaper]

Very interesting and useful info!

As an apprentice, I choose water based dyes first.

 

[leatherman]

The insides of pouch sheaths I dont dye anymore. I discovered that my early sheaths were transferring the dye to the micarta on knives, didn't take long for me to stop that mess. Now I simply wax the inside with Atom Wax, I use a small tooth brush, child size. Even on black sheaths it looks ok. Better safe than sorry when a customer comes to me with a "why did the sheath do this to my knife???"

 

[Omega Leather Works]

While I like my sheath quite a bit I may have to retire it if there's a good chance that it'll damage my Fiddleback.

 

[leatherman]

Do you have any bag kote, or tan kote? Not sure I spelled those correctly.

Also, any of the acrylic based sealers.

If you do this regularly you will reduce the chances of dye transfer to the knife handle.

Good luck! I'd hate to see you have to retire that sheath!

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I have Super Sheen, I think that it's an acrylic coat? Might look weird in there though. I'm only worried about it if it gets wet. I guess I could wet it and see if dye comes off on a paper towel.

I wonder if time makes any difference with transfer.

 

[leatherman]

Yea, a shiny interior might look a little disco.

Not so much time, but moisture is indeed a factor. The paper towel test is a good one.

Not a super barrier, but keeping in interior coated in wax is good as well, as long as the knife scales are not abrasive to the leather. Machined scales are never a good thing inside a leather sheath.