dying antler

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Oct 27, 2010
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Hey guys, i have searched and found many usefull posts about dying antler to get that nice contrasting color on popcorn textured pieces, but thats not what I am looking to do.

I have some nice bleached white smooth pieces that have the small cracks and striations like mammoth ivory, and was wondering if anyone knows a good method to acheive the mottled coloring and dark streaks like mammoth? I really like the look of mammoth, but don't like the price, and if i could get a close resemblance using antler i would be just fine with that. Anyone done this before?


-Xander
 
Xander here is a link to some antler I dyed. http://www.horsewrightclothing.com/subpages/slides/antler.html I don't know if this is the look you want or not. If it is, I used Fiebings Oil Dye for leather (saddle tan color). The dye penetrates well and doesn't rub off. In this particular application I used some spray lacquer to seal it after dyeing. i know that alot of Sambar Stag that we use to make knives has been dyed using potassium permanganate. I don't know what the process is.
 
I have dyed some bleached Montana stag, the bad part for the sun damage is the loss of all the contrast. I use leather dye, first I start with a couple of colors for some of the highlights, I like a dark brown and burgandy, paint some thin lines in the deeper areas and maybe in the cracks, I will apply 3-4 time to make sure I get a deep penetration. I dilute the base color quite a bit, you can alway put more on but cannot take off. I like using a light brown (these is were permangante can be used as well), wipe it off and see what you have. The darker highlights should look pretty good now, keep additing dye until you get the color you like. To add a little contrast sand some of the high areas with a fine paper 400. This will give a bit of white but smooth. Let it dry completely and I use tung oil 3-4 coat for a final finish.
 
Thanx for the links and info guys. The antler pieces I have are actually sold as chew toys for dogs and are artificially bleached then sterilized. I manage a pet store so I get them dirt cheap, and right now just grabbed a couple to see what I could do with them. One large taper is very smooth, but has the cracking and striations like fossil tusk which led me to ask if I could dye it to more resemble it.

Here is a pic of what I would like it to look like, or close to the one on the left...(pic borrowed from the exchange, not my material)

034-2.jpg



-Xander
 
Maybe you could add a pigment into thin super glue or epoxy and seep it into the cracks and sand it off when finished. That would give you the dark cracks and still the bone look. Just a thought
 
You might try Rit clothes dye. It will color it bone and antler but, where it is touched and handled it easily comes off. Therefore if you let it soak into the cracks and such and then buff with a greenie pad I think it will still be there in the cracks and around the popcorn. Then sealing with a thined down coat of CA will give it the effect you are looking for.

This particular one
000_1163.jpg
in the pic
was done in layers. I first applied thinned black oil paint and rubbed it in, and the wiped off all access. That is the really dark areas you see on the antler. Then it was buffed with a greenie, the resulting high areas were white. I then treated those areas with Potassium Permanganate, to achieve the brown areas. It was then coated in a thinned CA to seal it up.
I will then size it too fit the knife that it is being used on and I will generally leave that area white or at least lighter, often I will randomly buff smaller areas through out the whole piece to give it that lighter contrast to the entire piece. The coat of thinned CA give me the opportunity to keep the entire piece from being whitened (only selected areas are buffed enough to go through the darker brown color)!
That gives a three color contrast and then the whole thing is sealed with a thinned a final coat of CA as the one in the pic had been. That one in the pic has not had the final contrast of the white areas done to it yet but you can kind of get an idea of what it is going to look like!
It is kind of like painting a painting. In a painting the back ground is done first and then you move forward to the areas that the eye focuses on. With this process the higher areas are the ones that get buffed with the greenie pad and depending on what you do to them IE (change color or leave them white that is the contrast area), the sealing of the areas with CA lets you keep from changing the entire piece each time its buffed because the CA protects the lower areas that have already been colored! The piece in the pic was a well bleached shed that had a lot of popcorn and even a few traces of rodent or bird damage, or character depending how you do the finish!

Potassium Permanganateis almost permanent when used. In fact don't let it touch your bare hands as it is wash and wear, also it tends to burn as it is a powerful oxidizer. It is used for cleaning well water, among one of its many uses. Being an oxidizer it can't be air shipped and has to go ground shipping. You can buy it on ebay in the powder form and they will ship UPS usually.

Hope this is helpful.
 
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Thanx Dixie, I just might gve it a try with your method. Maybe I'll grab some smaller pieces to try out different methods before I try it on this one.

Here is the piece I am looking to use and cut into scales, should be enough for a smaller knife or a full sized one with bolsters.

2012-01-13095817.jpg


And here is the best looking piece I could find, but it is very small. Should be good for a slipjoint rehandle or an inlay.

2012-01-13100048.jpg



If anyone has any other ideas feel free to post it up, I will likely try several.


-Xander
 
I wonder how a vacuum system would work like in stabilizing wood. Draw the air out so the dye can go in??? There is a video on YouTube that shows a system using a brake-bleeder that is use to dye bone. There's a decent chance that antler might work too. Good Luck.

- Paul Meske
 
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