Dying Bone

A

Andybrock

Joined
Feb 5, 2017
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I’ve been jigging and dying my own slip joint scales for a couple of months, I’m pleased with progress so far but one of the problems I’m sometimes running into is when I dye both scales one scale seems to take the dye better than the other. The dye on the scales that hasn’t taken well seems to rub off quite easily especially in the bottom of the jigging.
Is there something I should be doing after jigging and before dying that will make the dye take better?
I’m using Fiebings pro dye.
Thanks
 
I dye my own slabs from time to time and I use Fiebings pro dye as well. I’ve come across the same situation as you with some slabs dying well and others not so much. It just seems to be part of working with natural bone. Maybe someone here has some suggestions that’ll help.
Jeff
 
If possible, make sure both pieces of bone are the same side of the bone. If you are using commercial bone, inspect the pieces well to see if they are as close a match as possible.
Dye with plenty of dye and use a vacuum and pressure pot. Even then, it may not be identical. Pre-dying a batch of material (say, a dozen scales) and matching colors is a wise thing.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
If possible, make sure both pieces of bone are the same side of the bone. If you are using commercial bone, inspect the pieces well to see if they are as close a match as possible.
Dye with plenty of dye and use a vacuum and pressure pot. Even then, it may not be identical. Pre-dying a batch of material (say, a dozen scales) and matching colors is a wise thing.
Click to expand...
Doing a dozen pieces at a time then matching sounds a sensible thing to do! I’ve got both vacuum and pressure equipment I’ll try running them through both. Thanks
 
I had good luck pre soaking the shaped and jigged covers in olive oil until they took on a somewhat translucent look when held to a shop light. Then into the dye and under vacuum for a day or so.

I felt that pre-soaking in olive oil helped wick the dye into the pores of the bone.

In this example I would go thru my process then add 3 or 4 applications of potassium permanganate down the center to get a slightly two tone affect.
HooseuS.jpeg

 
ken erickson said:
I had good luck pre soaking the shaped and jigged covers in olive oil until they took on a somewhat translucent look when held to a shop light. Then into the dye and under vacuum for a day or so.

I felt that pre-soaking in olive oil helped wick the dye into the pores of the bone.

In this example I would go thru my process then add 3 or 4 applications of potassium permanganate down the center to get a slightly two tone affect.
HooseuS.jpeg

Click to expand...
Nice looking knife! Is the PP in liquid form or do you mix it with something your self?
 
ken erickson said:
I had good luck pre soaking the shaped and jigged covers in olive oil until they took on a somewhat translucent look when held to a shop light. Then into the dye and under vacuum for a day or so.

I felt that pre-soaking in olive oil helped wick the dye into the pores of the bone.

In this example I would go thru my process then add 3 or 4 applications of potassium permanganate down the center to get a slightly two tone affect.
HooseuS.jpeg

Click to expand...
That's a great job btw. I'd be proud to stick that in one of my buckaroo pouches. A very nice knife!
 
Potassium permanganate is sold in powdered form and is mixed with water until the solution is saturated.

I may try a little experiment later mixing it with alcohol. I know mixing it with glycerin is very dangerous, as it will burst into flame. I'll have to be careful.
 
ken erickson said:
I had good luck pre soaking the shaped and jigged covers in olive oil until they took on a somewhat translucent look when held to a shop light. Then into the dye and under vacuum for a day or so.

I felt that pre-soaking in olive oil helped wick the dye into the pores of the bone.

In this example I would go thru my process then add 3 or 4 applications of potassium permanganate down the center to get a slightly two tone affect.
HooseuS.jpeg

Click to expand...
Beautiful knife Ken !! I love the shield and everything for that matter..... When you reference the " vacuum " do you mean a similar set up used for veneer gluing ? A vacuum bag ? Just curious. Thanks
 
rddp said:
Beautiful knife Ken !! I love the shield and everything for that matter..... When you reference the " vacuum " do you mean a similar set up used for veneer gluing ? A vacuum bag ? Just curious. Thanks
Click to expand...
I would imagine it’s a similar vacuum set up as used when stabilising wood. A vacuum chamber or pot.
 
Yes, a vacuum pump and large glass jar. I plan on being out in the shop tomorrow and will take some pictures of my set up. Fair warning, its not pretty, I cobbled it together from stuff I had laying around other than the pump which I purchased from my local surplus, used machinery business.
 
I have had pretty good luck soaking in gasoline. I put my gas jar on my warming pad and let soak for 24 hrs or until bone is translucent. You can also use xylene. It's an old Ken Coats trick.
 
I warned you guys my vacuum setup would be ugly! LOL

I scored the vacuum pump from the local surplus business. I had purchased the stand/motor from a local yard sale. It had one of those little Sears table saws mounted on it. Took it off and cobbled a mount for the pump. Some plumbing fittings took care of the jar lid. I put a smaller vessel inside that contains the Fiebing's Pro Dye and bone covers.

NKcLsVA.jpeg

5y6NzLm.jpeg

OOCrkKB.jpeg
 
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