Dying or tinting Busse knife handle?

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maxsee420

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Dec 18, 2009
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Has anyone ever tried to dye a Busse knife handle? E.g. Matching a color from a knife that is very similar in the first place.
 
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If you can think of it, it's been done to a Busse. Several maniacs have used shoe polish on the slabs:eek:

As if you can't tell, I'm not a big fan of the Kiwi wax treatment.

The canvas slabs will take on a deeper, richer color as you use them. The oils from your hands will do this.

BTW, my apologies to other maniacs out there.
 
I remember a while back someone posted a thread about dying tan canvas with green ink to make a custom color. It turned out that the dye job gave the handle scales a unique, one-off color that I liked. However, I don't think dye jobs would last long since only the fabric matrix used in the micarta would absorb the dye. The rest of the handle, which would be the resin, would not absorb the dye. Because of this, it might be necessary to re-color the handle scale every so often. I'll try to dig up a thread...
 
After using black and brown shoe polish on tan canvas handles, it does work for a while but will eventually wear off, especially when the handles is constantly getting wet. As Chuck mentioned earlier, just using the tan or black canvas will darken them naturally through oils in your hands.
plus, it puts charachter in the blade.
I have thought about using a green dye on tan... anything to darken them into a more tactical look, but if you in the sand box, the natural tan works fine.
 
WOW! Thanks everybody—ironically the blade I wanted to tint darker is a double cut SMOG warden to match a Busse double cut ASH. The ASH is a little darker, other than the pattern on the ASH, the knives are very close in look to be a set. I'll read the threads that safety man recommended. Perhaps I'll PM resin guy—being a polymer engineer or something like that. My uncle, Gary Zeller Special Efx man on numerous movies (original Dawn of the Dead...) and inventor of Zel Gel might have some tips. Other wise, I guess I'll just handle my SMOG GW until it gets darker. Thanks again everyone!
 
I got a HACK that someone did this too, & lets just say Do Not Do it. :grumpy::barf:
 
Have you oiled the slabs liberally to see if that darkens them to your liking?
 
G-10 will NOT color nearly as well as micarta. Its the base material that takes on the color with the dye and fiberglass will not hold anything for long.

Canvas micarta will hold color for a long time, especially with Fiebings Pro Oil dye. After years of working to get it out, yep its still there. Brown dye splashed on black canvas micarta will stick like glue. Black dye will stick the same. It soaks into the fibers and will permanently color the canvas, and linen to boot.
 
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Trying to get black dye from leather sheath off the green linen slabs on my BAD. After reading leatherman's post, it doesn't sound good. Any hope or suggestions from others on removing these unintended black leather dye stains? Thanks!
Best Wishes,
"Bloody Bill"
 
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#1 try gasoline

#2 denatured alcohol

#3 lighter fluid

#4 fast drying lacquer thinner (damp rag)

#5 paint remover

scrub it using any or all these, use #0000 steel wool or scotch bright.
 
Depending on the dye used I can add to Skunks list

Your good to go as the residue from the sheath is not as saturated as if you put it on with a brush, its sitting on top.

I'd try the alcohol first, with a cloth and rub it in real good, fully saturate the handle, then take it to the sink with warm water and some cleanser and a scotch bright pad. You should have clean handles.

If not go a little stronger on the stuff, try the lacquer thinner, but use gloves please! Work quickly and don't linger. Set aside and let it evaporate.

That is the reason I try not to dye the insides of my pouch sheaths anymore. I will not do it on my customs, and as little as possible on my productions. Some commercial customers demand color inside as they think it looks better. Was it one of my sheaths? If it was I'll make it right since I just started doing the no dye inside 3 -4 years ago. just let me know.
 
maxsee420 said:
Links of both knives handle color:
ry%3D400

ry%3D400

I feel like I shouldn't even be questioning this. Put it this way—you wouldn't alter a Picasso and I feel Busse knives are a thing of art. Although it is an interesting topic!
I haven't oiled the handle, perhaps I'll try to on a small spot...
Click to expand...

I think you are SOL. G10 probably will not take dye well, and oiling it won't do much either, in contrast to micarta.
 
I tried the various options and found them temporary and or useless depending on what I used...in the end I will either send the grips in to be changed or leave them as is...the good news is that no residue "half-cocked" finish was left...and I had linen tan micarta slabs I wanted to tone down....

I came to the conclusion it is easier to spray the knife with the Krylon paint set up I use for the terrain I am in for my rifle....this is temporary but works well whilst you need it ... and then comes off easy using pure alcohol...and the grips are not effected....

Pretty resilient stuff linen micarta.....cleans up well but remember to soak and rinse in a bowl of soap and water though....otherwise prodding a camp fire with the knife might mean the grips catch alight....
 
Use them:thumbup:

Friction/rubbing and body oils, blood, dirt, sweat, etc. will give the canvas & linen grades a nice darker appearance.
Tan canvas shows the best results.

I don't think anything will work on G10 or paper Micartas.
 
Following Skunk's suggestion, I tried some gasoline at lunchtime - it tasted terrible and I can still see the stains on the knife slabs, though not as clearly. I'll try some alcohol (Jamesons) and lighter fluid when I get home tonight...
Seriously, thanks for all the good advice!
"Bloody Bill"
 
Thanks, leatherman. I appreciate your generous offer, but I am certain that your tip of using alcohol and a cloth, followed by warm water, cleanser, and a scotchbrite pad (the green ones?) will take care of the problem. Thanks again!
"Bloody Bill"

The following morning: It worked like a charm - it looks as new as the day it came from the BCS! Thanks, leatherman!!!
 
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