dymondwood?

1

14Tango

Joined
May 5, 2007
Messages
108
Once again I'm looking to the combined experience of you forumites out there. I'm leaning towards picking up a Vantage Avid soon but I'd like to know more about the durability of the dymondwood handles. I don't have any knives with it and would like to know what you all think of the material. If the ergonomics are as good as it looks online I'll probably get the vantage pro in the future but for now what are your thoughts on dymondwood and the vantage avid in general?
 
Dymondwood is a great handle material for durability. It is layers of wood that is impregnated with resins which makes it more resistant to cracks, chipping, and other problems that natural wood can have.:thumbup: Hope this helps.:) You won't be disappointed with the Vantage knife! A+++ all the way in my opionion.

Eric
 
Thanks for the info, as an edc I'm in the field alot and my knives are exposed to some rough conditions. The Vantage line looks like great! So many knive too little $$!
 
arksknives is right, dymondwood is a great handle material. great to machine and polish for knife makers, and it will last you a long time.
 
David Martin said:
Is that the knife w/ Sandvik 13C27 steel?DM
Click to expand...

Yep, and mine has been in my pocket since it arrived. It has moved to the top of my favorites list. I really like everything about this knife. How it rides in my pocket, how it opens & closes, how it cuts & retains an edge, blade design, and the dymondwood handles look great.
 
I thought so.Hawaii's climate is very hard on knife steel.That steel will rust there w/o using it.Just be prepared to perform maintenance on it.DM
 
This one is an excellent choice. I work for one of the distributors for Buck and they got a sample of the Pro. That one i would suggest because of the S30V for only 75 bucks full retail. Can't beat that for a deal. The dymondwood has withstood the test i have been putting it through. We left the handle out in the weather for a few days and had some of the pets tear it up and nothing really happened to permentaly damage it. I give the seal of approval. I would recommend the upgrade to the Pro for the S30V though. It holds the edge like i can't beleive.
 
I made thousands of roller ball, ball point, and fountain pens - and pencils - from Dymondwood. It is actually layers of dyed beech/birch veneers soaked in resin and pressed together to cure under pressure. It has plastic/resin-like properties and the grain pattern of real wood - with layers colored in mute wood tones to wild rainbow colors. It works easily with standard wood blades, HSS and/or carbide, and sands easily, although clogged machine driven belts can overheat it - and it then splits easily, likely from differential heat application. I turned my pens on a small NZ-made wood lathe or a Taig (US) mini-metal version, often sanding up to 2,000 grit SiC before applying metal polish for highest luster. No 'finish' - or wax - is necessary - just polished will give it a plastic-like sheen. It is all-weather, although I have no long-term UV exposure experience with it.

Here it is seen as a great 'all-weather' handle material - on my older S&W 625 Mountain Gun in .45 Colt (S&W Rosewood Dymondwood Combat Grips - bottom) vs a newer variant (top) sporting cocobolo wood grips with a homebrew penetrating oil/resin finish. The Dymondwood is sealed, so it doean't swell/check with sudden temp/humidity changes. Good choice for a handle. G10, once known as a glass/paper/resin material for electronic circuit boards, ranges from opague white (paper/resin) to translucent green (Glass/resin), and behaves similarly.

IMG_3430.jpg


Stainz
 
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