- Joined
- Jan 27, 2019
- Messages
- 654
For everything other than Scandi grinds (although I know some ppl strop a convex microedge onto them), my baseline method is simply to put a WorkSharp convex bevel on the edge, leave the rest of the edge / profile as designed and then just strop it to desired sharpness .
Works really well on full flat grinds like on the BK knives that also happen to have fairly thick bladestocks .
I'll often also strop a bit shallower as well on thicker blades, for a little more "sliciness".
On thinner, and softer blades like a Victorinox or Opinels, the WorkSharp isn't needed and stropping is all that's required.
I still have other touch up methods (a DMT credit card diamond sharpener) for triage situations or when encountering someone else's blade that's just too dull....
But putting a decent convex on it initally with a belt and then just stropping for maintenance is too damn easy.
It's not as romantic as a series of 5-6 Japanese waterstones....
But it works really well for me.
Anyone else have any other easy or perhaps more complex but preferred methods?
Works really well on full flat grinds like on the BK knives that also happen to have fairly thick bladestocks .
I'll often also strop a bit shallower as well on thicker blades, for a little more "sliciness".
On thinner, and softer blades like a Victorinox or Opinels, the WorkSharp isn't needed and stropping is all that's required.
I still have other touch up methods (a DMT credit card diamond sharpener) for triage situations or when encountering someone else's blade that's just too dull....
But putting a decent convex on it initally with a belt and then just stropping for maintenance is too damn easy.
It's not as romantic as a series of 5-6 Japanese waterstones....
But it works really well for me.
Anyone else have any other easy or perhaps more complex but preferred methods?
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