Easiest way to convert wharncliffe to birds beak blade shape???

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Mar 2, 2014
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I am planning to get spyderco delica or endela ,wharncliffe and try to convert it to birds beak blade shape.What would be the easiest way to do this?Should I just leave it as is,and are any major differences in how those two blade shapes perform?
 
just buy the one you want.

if that's not an option then grind what you don't want off. you might mess up the heat treat though.

all in all I'd just leave it as removing the amount of material you'd need to would make the blade enough shorter to tell the difference
 
Draw with a sharpie the part you want to grind off. So you can see what it will look like.

A file and a padded vise are all you need. If you use a grinder don't let the blade get too hot.
 
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I am planning to get spyderco delica or endela ,wharncliffe and try to convert it to birds beak blade shape.What would be the easiest way to do this?Should I just leave it as is,and are any major differences in how those two blade shapes perform?

Not sure what you mean, there are different bird beaks .... you mean a hawk bill ? There are good Sypdercos that already have that shape. The standard delica/endela has more of a kookaburra (spell?) beak shape.

Wharncliffes are super useful, for poking and cutting, think boxes, dry wall, etc.
 
I am planning to get spyderco delica or endela ,wharncliffe and try to convert it to birds beak blade shape.What would be the easiest way to do this?Should I just leave it as is,and are any major differences in how those two blade shapes perform?
Well you wont really know how well it performs until you convert it!?
To convert it, tape it to a birds beak for at least two weeks, corvids are your best bet.
 
It's a known certainty, that if you regularly sharpen a blade with a rod-type hone, it'll eventually develop some recurve in the edge profile. Taken to a further extreme, if you wanted to speed that up a bit, you could regrind the edge on a rod (dowel, etc) with something more aggressive, like coarse sandpaper in SiC or aluminum oxide. Doing it this way would eliminate any concerns you might have about damaging the heat treat. It'd take more time - but that might also allow you to consider if it's really something you want to do, over some time and with continued use of the blade.
 
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