easy open + liner lock or lock back

Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
482
Everyone has been very helpful in my other threads while I wade my way through the traditional folders. Now that I have a few in my hands, I can see what works for me and what doesn't and need some advise as I move forward. My attraction to the traditional knives are the build quality (GEC so far), the availbility of the different handle materials (love the woods), and mostly the sense of history that comes with them.

I have a bad case of RA which makes my fingers and hands very weak to the point of almost unusable some days. Also it is almost impossible for me to use a thumbnail to open. Here is what I've bought so far and my comments/problems:

#21 GEC toothpick - I can barely open it - some days not at all. just barely enough blade sticking out for me to grab.
#15 GEC Charlow - A bit easier to open - enough blade to grasp between my thumb and forefinger - not so stiff that I can open it.
Queen Catelman - can't open at all.
Tree Brand Barlow - can't open at all.

So, as kind of expected, except for the Charlow these aren't going to work for me. But I don't want to give up. It was suggested to me in another thread to try the #85 easy open liner lock. I am ready to go with that one, but brings another question. I am assuming that the liner lock will have little to no resistance when opening. If that is true than that is the direction I will follow. I also have seen a couple lock backs, but I doubt I would be able to depress the lock to close it. I have an older large Buck lock back and I can't engage it at all.

With all that said, and hoping that the easy open liner lock will work for me, how limited are my choices going to be now as far as pattern? I just love the toothpick design and it is kind of upsetting that I won't be able to use it. What other traditional knives can I find that will be easy open?

~Stan~
 
I personally like traditionals that I can "pinch" open, and it sounds like this is what you need. I think a sodbuster pattern would be right up your alley:thumbup:
 
Coaltrain, was that the red toothpick you got from Ed G? I got another one from him and it was a bit stiff to open too. Those are 2009 models and the older GECs are known for stiffer backsprings.

With mine, I noticed that on the tang where the tang end meets the tang front, that corner where it transitions from flat to round was a bit roughly finished and added some effort to get it open. I used the edge of a small file to smooth it down, and some WD-40 silicone spray on the joint, and it's a lot easier to open now.

You can also try flushing the joint in hot soapy water. Get the blade open, wrap it a few times in sturdy tape, and submerge it in soapy water as warm as you can stand, then work the blade back and forth. Rinse under hot water and then dry thoroughly and blow the water out of the joint as best you can, or use canned air to help with it. Then squirt some WD-40 in the joint and work it some more, to make sure you got the water out (WD=water displacer).

Then apply a small amount of lubricant to the joint and work it back and forth some more. That may help loosen it up some, if it's caused by gunk in the joint.

You might also consider getting a "steel thumbnail" type tool to help you with opening it. AG Russell sells some nice ones, and you can get Case and GEC branded models as well.
http://www.agrussell.com/ag-russell-steel-thumbnail-black-rucarta/p/RUL-OP1BR/.
http://www.gpknives.com/caseknifeopener.html
http://greateasterncutlery.net/cata...ucts_id=448&osCsid=k7ntgb3n4je6d72s3edv0p6hh0

If you decide you can't use that red toothpick I'll take it off your hands for you for what you paid plus your shipping costs to me, unless of course you get it all rusty following my advice above :)
 
Last edited:
Not sure but I think the Case mid sized hunter comes with a thumb stud. Not the same as GEC in appearance but you might want to check into it as a possibility.
One thing I have done for super stiff hard to open blades is once they are open at about 45 degrees I apply some non sticky lube spray and let it sink in. I them have left my knife in the open position for several days. Some say it weakens the spring but it has helped me to make it easier to open
I would suggest you post int the maintenance forum here.
 
Something else to consider is to contact GEC with your issue and let them know about your problem. They might be willing to let you send it back for some rework where they could swap out the spring for a lighter one.

Or there is the Case Russlock, which has a lever rather than a nail nick for opening. It's designed as a one hand opener but you don't have to use it that way. You can use the heel of the opposite hand to push it open, and it does have a liner lock. However they do tend to have normal backsprings so they do take some pressure to open.

Case has another model of knife that looks like a traditional but does not have a backspring at all. Very easy to open and has a linerlock. Trapperlock is the product name, check it out on the Case web site, can't really discuss it much on this forum.
 
John (jc57) - will be sending you an email.

Thanks for the suggestions. I had thought about doing some maintenance work on the toothpick, but since this would be my first time, I don't want to practice on such a beautiful knife. I think I will pick up an old no-name friction folder I saw at a junk store the other day and use that to practice on.

What I would really like to know, is what type of spring mechanism is used on the #85 easy open liner lock. I understand that it is called easy open because of the notch in the scales to facilitate grabbing the blade, but would it have the same tension on the blade while opening as the others?
 
John (jc57) - can't PM or email you - left a visitor message for you on your profile page.
 
Opening the EO LL 85 is very easy. And it also has half stops which is helpful for closing. Mine isn't very hard to close but the finger you use to depress the liner lock tab is very close to the blade, but having the half stop allows you to unlock it, move to half stop, then reposition your fingers to fully close the blade.
 
I have found that Canal Street Cutlery has some very smooth and easy opening and closing knives.
 
The liner lock knives have a backspring in addition to the lock. You might be better off with a lockback. The #72, #42, #64, and #65 patterns are some options with that in mind.
 
I owned an 85EOLL but sold it. While it was easy enough to open, I had a hard time depressing the lock in order to close the blade. I wonder if GEC would have removed the lock for me if I sent it in?
 
Well they do make Easy Open knives without the liner lock. I've never had a slipjoint try to close on me from normal use. Pushing with the tip, especially with spear points, is about the only risky thing with a regular slippy.
 
Coaltrain have you considered the Case Trapperlock? Very smooth and easy to open with a thumb stud.

 
the discontinued but still available kershaw double cross would fit the bill. the blades have no spring and are locked with a liner lock

Imho its a sharp looker too.
kershaw-double-cross-4380dm-folder-damascus.jpg
 
ixnay on the umbthay udstay.
 
JusinR and Shaggy - thanks for the hands on description on how the #85 operates. With that information I think I will hold off on that one for now.

dannyp - I'm concerned with being able to depress a liner lock properly. I have a larger Buck liner lock that I can not depress.

C.Helm - I'll take a look at the Canal Street offerings - thanks.

hunterjrg - as a matter of fact I've had a generous offer from a member here to have the opportunity to try a Case Trapperlock - looks like it just might be the ticket.

knarfeng - while I frequent a few forums quite a bit over the years, I have no idea what your said "ixnay on the umbthay udstay" - is this knife terminology or am I missing something here.........

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For the time being I am going to try out a Case Trapperlock, then take it from there. In the meantime I am also going to work on cleaning/lubricating the pivot on my toothpick. Thanks for all the suggestions and input on the #85.

~Stan~
 
...
knarfeng - while I frequent a few forums quite a bit over the years, I have no idea what your said "ixnay on the umbthay udstay" - is this knife terminology or am I missing something here.........

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For the time being I am going to try out a Case Trapperlock, then take it from there. In the meantime I am also going to work on cleaning/lubricating the pivot on my toothpick. Thanks for all the suggestions and input on the #85.

~Stan~
That's pig Latin, and means, loosely translated, "Don't post pics or discuss knives with thumbstuds in the traditional forum" which is why I took our discussion of the Case T[censored]k to e-mails. :)
 
That's pig Latin, and means, loosely translated, "Don't post pics or discuss knives with thumbstuds in the traditional forum" which is why I took our discussion of the Case T[censored]k to e-mails. :)

Oh....OK. I never would have guessed that was a moderator action.
 
Yes, it's a veritable mine-field around here. Once you get a couple of private talking-to's you'll straighten right up and become one with the collective. ;)
 
The GEC EZ open #15 sheepsfoot has a pretty light pull, and the single blade clip point #15's are easy to pluck open. The combination of a low profile blade shape and poor nail nick placement makes some knives a chore to open. If the knife can't be either plucked open or doesn't have a fairly light pull, my thumb won't take it...

I much prefer cam tang knives over knives with half stops, the cam tang is much easier for me to open. Jerry Halfrich had a an ultralight prototype at Blade with a cam tang that was smooth as silk to open.
 
Back
Top