Edge angles

Joined
Nov 28, 2000
Messages
524
Hi, all.
I was wondering if anyone knows the blade angles of the following knives:

Delica
Harpy
Ladybug 2
Calypso

Are they 30 degrees, 40 degrees, or? I need to touch them up, but don't want to start with the wrong angle. That is, if they're at 40 degrees, I don't want to sharpen them at 30, etc. BTW, they all have fully serrated edges.

Thanks in advance,
Frank
 
According to Sal in the Sharpmaker video, Spydies come with a 30-degree angle. So you can't go wrong either way. Sharpening at 30 will give you a keener edge that's less durable, whereas sharpening at 40 will not be as frighteningly sharp but you'll still have the benefit of the 30-degree backbevel.

Personally, I'd keep it at 30 for the Calypso (I assume you mean the large version, which has awesome VG-10 steel) because it can handle that kind of thin edge. And I'd go with 40 on the others; it'll last longer.
 
If I recall correctly, Sal said on the sharpmaker video that Spyderco's come with a 30 degree edge. I could be wrong and I don't know it that applies to serrated edges. With that in mind, he usually recommends a 40 degree edge. I would say use 40 degrees for the serrations: that's served me well.

Hope this helps. I'm sure someone with some more info will chime in.
 
Thanks, guys.
Actually, I have the Sharpmaker, I just forgot about the book and video. I'll have to dig them out for a once over. I think I'll practice on my ladybug 2 for a start.

BTW- Yes, the Calypso is the large, VG-10 version. :D

Frank
 
Keep in mind that a 30-degree edge will easily outcut a 40-degree edge. Since Spyderco says your current edges are 30-degree edges, let me ask you a question: are you currently seeing problems with the edge chipping out, indenting, or rolling inordinately? If so, then go up to 40-degree edges. But if not, there's absolutely no reason to lose performance to go up to 40-degrees. Never go up to a higher angle unless you really need to! Your edge will tell you if it wants a higher angle or not, so listen to it.

If you like your knives to cut well, the edge angle strategy is: use the absolutely lowest edge you can get that will not sustain damage (chipping, etc.) during your hardest jobs.

(edit)

I'll add something else here. I sometimes find it odd that people are so interesting in learning about the different steel choices they can have, but aren't at least as obsessed about making sure they sharpen to bring the best out of each steel. I know folks who have spent the money to buy, say, an M-2 version of an ATS-34-bladed folder. Well, one of the advantages of M-2 version is that it's tougher and stronger than ATS-34 version. That means you can take the M-2 edge thinner for better performance, but still not have to worry about edge damage. In other words, if you're going to spend extra money for the M-2 version, but you're going to keep the edge angle identical to the ATS-34 version, then to some extent you're wasting your money, because you're not getting all the performance out of the M-2 that you should.

Given a relatively tougher or stronger blade steel (and heat treat), you should be tailoring your sharpening to that steel, otherwise you are absolutely not seeing what that steel can really do.
 
Joe- You raise a good point about sharpening various steels in different ways. All my Spydies are either ATS-55 or GIN-1, with the exception being the Calypso in VG-10. I believe these are all well respected steel types, so I'd certainly like to make the most of them. All my MT's are 154-CM, I think. I'll probably stick with the 30° factory edge- unless I try the 40°. Maybe I'll make my Navigator, in GIN-1, the 40° guinea pig.

Thanks all, again, for your fast replies. :)

Frank
 
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