edge angles

harkamus

harkamus

Joined
Apr 23, 2007
Messages
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I'm in the process of ordering a Sharpmaker, but have a few questions. Do I really need to try to match the factory angles? I was thinking of just using the 30 degree stones followed by the 40 degree stones for a bevel, without even as much as trying to guess the factory angles. Does it matter? I don't even know what the factor edge angle is on my knife.
 
Factory angles can be VERY mis-matched, Its usually done on a belt grinder and given the fact that the person doing the sharpening does hundreds a day I would say that leaves some room for error. Another factor that play's in is how worn the belt is or what day of the week it is :D
99% of the factory edges that I have seen in say the past two years with the expection of my kershaw zing didn't even get the polishing step.Most recently my BM 760 that's factory edge was 30+ per side was totally missed by the polisher, the burr was so large I could see it without looking close and the grind was so FUBAR'ed it took me hours to put the proper curve back in the edge.

So, no factory edges are not something you should follow as the sharpener has no idea what the knife will be used for or what angle a given steel should be set to. What are you using to sharpen now?
 
knifenut1013 said:
What are you using to sharpen now?
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Nothing really. I have stropped the knife on some cardboard, but beyond that, nothing. It still has its factory edge. I just wanted to sharpen it because it didn't come that sharp from the factory.

Yes it cuts paper, but not as smoothly as I've seen in videos of other "sharp" knives.

I also need something better to sharpen my kitchen knives (which I will practice on before moving on to my edc).
 
The sharpmaker is a good tool but not if your knife needs a re-bevel. IMO the DMT aligner or magna-guide is a better option, you can do full re-bevels and the grits go just as high as a UF ceramic plus they go much lower than the diamond rod's for the sharpmaker. The DMT product also gives you more angle options and sharpening options, you can use the system as is or use the clamp with benchstones or use the DMT stones for freehand touch-up's. With all the new super wear resistant steel that are out starting with diamond's will save you from buying them later.
 
Problem is, the DMT doesn't handle recurves that well from what I've read, hence the Sharpmaker. I know DMT has an add on for the recurve, but I've read several accounts that it's not that good for sharpening recurves.

Plus I like the sharpmaker because I can sharpen chef's knives with them. Would be more time consuming to do that on a DMT.
 
Re-curves can be a pain and it is true that DMT tool does not work that well and only comes in one grit. If the sharpmaker is what you like then go for it but you will need the diamond rods or a good coarse benchstone for the dirty work.

More time consuming on a DMT? I wouldn't think so unless you chef's knives already have good angles and are not completely dull.
 
Well, I meant in the sense that with the DMT, you'd have to reposition the blade several times. I don't mean paring knives, I meant chef knives ;).

They're not dull at all, but I realized after reading these forums that they could be sharper. I think knifeknuts become obsessed with keeping things sharp; I've become the same way.

EDIT: Is there a Sharpmaker set that comes with all the stones, or would I need to buy separate diamond stones?
 
I have used my magna-guide to sharpen my mom's 8+ inch kitchen knife without moving the clamp, you just possition the clamp more near the center of the blade and you will be ok.

obsessed, who me :D

I just have the experience to make anything stupid sharp and if you have that ability why not use it.

Not sure if it comes as a complete set, as far as I know its only the medium and fine stones.
 
Hmmm. Now that you mention it, I may just get the DMT one day after I get the Spyderco, just for sharpening my kitchen knives. None of them are recurves obviously, so yea, that should make things faster if you say you get around 8 inches with each position of the clamp. Longest blade I have in the kitchen is roughly 12 inches.

EDIT: Oh Lord, I just remembered this old kitchen knife that we started using as a utility knife to cut up concrete bags among other things. I think I just may have to put an edge back on it. It's probably the thinnest kitchen knife we've ever had, so it should take a wicked edge.
 
You can never have too much stuff to sharpen with :D

Picture513.jpg
 
I believe your whole set up for sharpening alone costs more than my knives. Haha.
 
harkamus said:
I believe your whole set up for sharpening alone costs more than my knives. Haha.
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If I didn't buy expensive knives it would for me too. Just the bottom row of DMT stuff is over $300 :eek:
 
Very nice set up of sharpening tools there. Knifenut! I remember you saying you haven't had the best luck on waterstones, but if you want to throw some more money at stones I can almost guarantee great results with Shapton Glasstones on both stainless and carbon steel, and the 8000 grit (1.84 micron) puts on a tremendous polish without loading up like a ceramic or dishing out or gouging like lesser stones. No soak time, just spritz on water and go. I used to think even the Glasstones weren't worth my time and did everything with my ceramics that I could, but lately I've been using the Glasstones almost exclusively. Of course your results are great with your DMT's and ceramics, but a sharpening OCD guy like yourself has to at least get one set of water stones in his life that give you great edges and satisfaction.

Mike
 
gunmike1 said:
Very nice set up of sharpening tools there. Knifenut! I remember you saying you haven't had the best luck on waterstones, but if you want to throw some more money at stones I can almost guarantee great results with Shapton Glasstones on both stainless and carbon steel, and the 8000 grit (1.84 micron) puts on a tremendous polish without loading up like a ceramic or dishing out or gouging like lesser stones. No soak time, just spritz on water and go. I used to think even the Glasstones weren't worth my time and did everything with my ceramics that I could, but lately I've been using the Glasstones almost exclusively. Of course your results are great with your DMT's and ceramics, but a sharpening OCD guy like yourself has to at least get one set of water stones in his life that give you great edges and satisfaction.

Mike
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LOL, O so true.

I've been getting better with the waterstones but the edges still seem over polished after the 8000 stone. I got my 52100 mule clean shaving after the 8000 stone but not hair splitting like the DMT XX fine.
 
knifenut1013 said:
LOL, O so true.

I've been getting better with the waterstones but the edges still seem over polished after the 8000 stone. I got my 52100 mule clean shaving after the 8000 stone but not hair splitting like the DMT XX fine.
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What brand waterstones are you using? My Shaptons at 8000 grit are easily doing tree topping, hair splitting antics. Heck, I just sharpened a wood planer blade last week from needing 10 minutes on the D8XX to whittling hair after working through the grits to the Shapton 8000. It leaves a beautiful shine to go along with sharpness that lives up to the pretty polish, which as you know doesn't always happen.

Mike
 
King and King ice bear's for the 4000 and 8000 grit.
 
If recurves are your thing, www.congresstools.com sells very course round rods and half round stones, down to 60 grit. Their triangle stones might fit the Sharpmaker, but they are a little shorter. I havent tried to fit them, but some others have and had some success.
 
me2 said:
If recurves are your thing, www.congresstools.com sells very course round rods and half round stones, down to 60 grit. Their triangle stones might fit the Sharpmaker, but they are a little shorter. I havent tried to fit them, but some others have and had some success.
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lots of good stuff their thanks for that link. :thumbup:
 
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