edge geometry?

[phantomknives]

Hey i know i should probably print out that guide from an axe to grind, but could you guys post photos of your axe's edges? i'v been having doubts my edges are thin enough. thanks in advance

 

[Miller '72]

Is this the guide you are referring to?
I have been considering making a gauge for myself.

 

[Ugaldie]

I have taken some photos for a new thread, here you have a 1kg limber,



And here an old photo of a 1,75kg felling axe, I thinned it a bit more



An now some racers, 2,5kg



Unidentified axe

 

[phantomknives]

thanks!

 

[Miller '72]

I have taken some photos for a new thread, here you have a 1kg limber,

View attachment 821620

And here an old photo of a 1,75kg felling axe, I thinned it a bit more

View attachment 821628

An now some racers, 2,5kg

View attachment 821629

Unidentified axe

View attachment 821633

Those are beautiful examples!
The racing axe photos are sharper than my razor!

 

[Ugaldie]

Thank you Miller! Local racing axes use to be between 14 and 16 degrees, ocasionally 13. Those axes use to be as thin or thinner than knives. They are great tools, take in account they have to be as strong as to cut beech knots in full swing

But they are not unbreakable, it's not uncommon to see broken axes after suffering so big tensions. Sometimes the damage is easily fixable but sometimes catastrophic failure do happen, like in this case,


Image source here

 

[phantomknives]

That physically hurts to look at

 

[Miller '72]

Thank you Miller! Local racing axes use to be between 14 and 16 degrees, ocasionally 13. Those axes use to be as thin or thinner than knives. They are great tools, take in account they have to be as strong as to cut beech knots in full swing

But they are not unbreakable, it's not uncommon to see broken axes after suffering so big tensions. Sometimes the damage is easily fixable but sometimes catastrophic failure do happen, like in this case,

View attachment 821659
Image source here

Ugaldie,

I appreciate the posts and information I have been reading and coming across posted by you.
The racing axe and the completions and competitors are all very interesting and exciting.
Makes me want to search out any local, localish competitions.
Thank you.

Also, I really love your wood stove. Which is truly more than a wood stove!

 

[Miller '72]

That physically hurts to look at

I have been looking at that cringing as well...hoping that's not a competitors blood splatter from that head breaking and shattering off like that and just some crazybout of control paint line

 

[Ernest DuBois]

Before ever trying it out I was always skeptical of the idea of a modified asymmetric grind,

but not any more, I love it like that.

 

[Square_peg]

For what type of work do you like that edge shape?

 

[Ernest DuBois]

Rough hewing mostly, both the notching and the juggling and then I like to go one more step and make the side nice and vertical with this axe so all that is left to do with the broadaxe is cleaning up the surface. You can see that the asymmetric edge goes together with the asymmetric hang.

 

[Square_peg]

Are you using the flat side as the contact side?

 

[Agent_H]

Before ever trying it out I was always skeptical of the idea of a modified asymmetric grind,

but not any more, I love it like that.

Ernest DuBois' photo again for reference.

The geometry on that one reminds me of the approach they are taking with the GB carving axe - one side with a longer, far-reaching semi-rounded bevel, meeting up with a flat/chisel grind. Obviously a different animal of course. Is that one you are showing us a bundaxt, bandhacke, or maybe a larger version? Also, are you are left-handed?

By the way Ernest, thank you for your posts on "wave blade" (among many others).

 

[Ernest DuBois]

Are you using the flat side as the contact side?

The flat side is adjacent to the worked surface. In the case of notching it might take some further explanation. I notch vertically standing along side the stem and not chopping inward from atop the stem. Normally it is a two person operation but often I work alone which is not ideal and in that case the grind as it is on this axe is less effective. Well, I have other axes to grab if it's needed. For the rough wasting I am also standing to the side walking up the stem and then the flat side bevel is against the stem. I am gripping the handle with my right hand on the top and nearest the stem my left hand more or less stationary at the but of the handle, the idea is to maintain my shoulders nearly perpendicular to the axis of the stem.

Ernest DuBois' photo again for reference.

The geometry on that one reminds me of the approach they are taking with the GB carving axe - one side with a longer, far-reaching semi-rounded bevel, meeting up with a flat/chisel grind. Obviously a different animal of course. Is that one you are showing us a bundaxt, bandhacke, or maybe a larger version? Also, are you are left-handed?

By the way Ernest, thank you for your posts on "wave blade" (among many others).

Nice to see you have looked in over there.
I have heard that some people will customize their axes and hatchets for carving. I didn't know Gransfors produced such a model, rather gimmicky, I think because from my perspective it's up to the user to make the edge in the way that suits their use. In fact I have come to an agreement with my blacksmith that he only does the roughest of finishing on all my edges and leaves it at that.
Yes it is a bandhacke, happens to be not the smallest and not the biggest of the ones I have. And yes I am a lefty.