Edge hardness for a Chopper?

David Stifle

David Stifle

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
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hi Guys,

What is the best hardness for a W-2 chopper? Would a RC of 60 induce chipping? That is my primary concern. Should the edge be softer, 56-57? Appreciate your input and advice.

Dave
 
Last edited:
Hi David,

It depends on how thick or thin the edge is. Thin W2 at 60+ can chip, a thicker W2 edge at 60 not so much. I
don't know how much seance that makes.
Fred
 
Thanks, Fred,

I'm lucky you were online. It's going into Ht with a thickness of about a dime (I gott'a get a calipher someday), from there, I intend to put a rolled edge on the blade. So, yes, a fairly thin edge. Maybe a lower RC?

Dave
 
If you're truly at a dime's thickness then after you regrind and convex the edge RC-59-60 should work fine.
 
Although I haven't worked with W2, I tend to agree with Fred and Darrin. A choppers edge doesn't need to be paper thin like a filet knife or skinner, so the thicker edge and harder HT should balance out for a combination of strength and edge-holding.

Having said that, I had my last 1084 chopper tempered to 58Rc and it holds up great, no chipping at all and holds an edge quite well. I will have the next carbon steel ones done at 60 and see if my theory is correct :o The thrill of sharpening often wore off a long time ago :D

Remember, if you have it tempered at 60 and discover it's a little chippy, you can always temper it back some more in your kitchen oven or a toaster oven. It's best to do this before assembling the handles :eek:
 
Not sure about W2. I work mostly with A2 or O1 on choppers and mine are 60/61 rc. I bring my edge down to near zero and add a very small micro bevel convex edge.
They hold up to some serious beating.
Scott
 
I have lots of large choppers in W2, both from Phillip Patton and Matt Roberts. Both makers' edge hardnesses tend to be nipping pretty strongly at the heels of 60HRC and I've never seen any damage (beyond the normal edge degradation you'd expect with use), and Phillip especially is fond of fair thin edges, and even fairly thin blade cross sections well above the edge, in spite of thick spines. The advantage of a thinner chopper is, of course, that you're doing more actual cutting and less bludgeoning, and can use more controlled, lighter swings to do what you're doing. If you wail at it, of course, it's better to have a bit more beef there, especially if the blade is to be differentially hardened.

W2 is RIGHT behind 52100 as far as my personal favorite steels for general use, and fragility is not a trait I've noticed. :thumbup:
 
I'm going to get it as close to 60 Rc as I can. I've not handled one of Phillip Patton's blades, but it sounds like we share the same philosophy on larger blades. This blade is around 16", with a 3/16th" spine, no distal grind, so it will have weight behind it, but a pure flat grind with a thin edge. Looking forward to getting it done and testing it out.

Thanks Guys,

Dave
 
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