Edge modification...

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Mar 24, 2009
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I'm just curiois how many of you hogs mod the factory edge on your Busse's? ie thin down the edge, v edge to convex or vise versa. The knife you changed and why you made the change would help too, thanks.
 
I find the factory edge on most Busse knives too obtuse, so I do thin them down some. Using the belt grinder lends to making a convex final edge.
 
As Resinguy said - same here, to every Busse knife I use.

I don't thin them too much, don't want to make the edge weak, but a bit of thinning, convexing and a high polish make the bigger ones better choppers and the smaller ones better wood-carvers and slicers.
 
Depends on the blade. I'll say the old-school Basics were some of the sharpest out-of-the-box knives I've ever owned, so they never needed work. Shockingly sharp!
 
I have done the convex and modified it in variation. Nowadays I just thin the V-grind a little, but keep it toothy as it comes since I use a working edge and don't cut much paper.
 
I used to Vgrind all my knives, but now I'm in the process of convexing almost all my blades. I'm finally starting to get the hang of it too!
I just convexed an old skinner that would dull up just by looking at it, but with the convex edge it finally lasts a while.


I just had all my Busses factory sharpened (Thanks Josh!)
Busse only ships with convex edges now. Which is what really prompted the edge profile change. Dang you CABS!
 
Most Busses I've owned - like 75% - have had terribly uneven and sloppy grinds - one side might be 20* and the other 35* - with that said it's been necesary to even em up via diamond rods. I like my heavy work knives V grind at 40* inclusive.

Seems like the edge QC has gotten a lot better since the release of the CABS line...
 
Sandpaper on a neoprene pad.

IMG_3722.jpg
 
I convex all my edges.

It was a beast doing some of them by hand. I actually broke down and convexed the KZII with my belt sander just to break the shoulder a bit quicker, then finished the edge by hand.

Have not had to touch the Cabs edge, though, that one was exactly where I wanted it!


I don't own high volumes of busse. I have owned a total of 12. I have not had any uneven or sloppy grinds on any yet (knock on wood), but I have had some pretty obtuse edges to thin down.

That is the nature of the beast. Thicker/obtuse edges are tougher. I have not had a Busse with a factory edge what was not sharp enough to get the job done (some have been stinking sharp....ss, B11, Ash1CG were all hair popping sharp). The front inch of the KZII was not very sharp, and was very thick. Only took about 3 mintues with a diamond stone to fix the sharpness issue, but I was going to convex it eventually anyway.

One BAD had a tiny wire edge from the factory, which was actually a great thing for me. A few passes with a ceramic stick and some light strops and it was a laser. The other Infi I have received have been non factory edges for the most part.

The edges recently have been greatly improved.
 
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Thanks for the responses guys. My experience has been the same so looks like I'm not alone. It does appear however that its time to break down and buy a belt sander...
 
i've convexed all my busse,bussekin knives......except the safe queens and the Rat Trap......i love that folder......
 
I thin all my Bussekin blades, the bigger ones get convexed, the smaller ones get hit with the DMT plates then stropped with diamond spray up to .25 micron. I just did this one last night, decided not to convex it.

dm-1.jpg


dm2-1.jpg
 
Depends on the blade. I'll say the old-school Basics were some of the sharpest out-of-the-box knives I've ever owned, so they never needed work. Shockingly sharp!

But that's not quite what we are talking about here. One could have an very sharp edge with a 90° included angle. It would not need sharpening, but you still might wish to have a more acute edge, ie, thin it down.

As Cliff Stamp was wont to say, Geometry Cuts.
 
But that's not quite what we are talking about here. One could have an very sharp edge with a 90° included angle. It would not need sharpening, but you still might wish to have a more acute edge, ie, thin it down.

As Cliff Stamp was wont to say, Geometry Cuts.

Very true, I have axes that can easily shave, but can't "cut" worth a damn.
 
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