Edge Pro - 120 or 220 stone for reprofile?

T

TFin04

Joined
Aug 21, 2005
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Looking to pick up an Edge Pro to reprofile some modern super steel knives. I intend to set and maintain the microbevel on my Sharpmaker, the Edge Pro will just be for cutting the initial angle and for removing chips or other badly damaged areas from the edge.

Is the 220 stone up for this type of work, or should I invest in the 120? I'm using it on steels including CPM M4, ZDP189, M390, as well as the supersteels of yesteryear such as D2, S30v, etc.

Thanks!
 
I have use 350 to get where I need to be so, 220 should be fine. Get a quality stone and your arm will thank you.
 
If you're going to do major reprofiles, repairs, etc., in my book, the more coarse the better. I'd get the 120.

For an alternative, I've actually mounted a 2x6 DMT DiaSharp stone in an EP, to do the grunt work...

EP_DMT01.jpg


... EP holds it fine, and makes for a quick job. :thumbup:
 
Chef Knives To Go sells a whole range of edge pro stones and holders including diamond plates. Their house brand 140 grit diamond plate for edge pro is under $10. I'd be very tempted to try that if I used an edge pro. (Look under edgepro then atoma).

Brian.
 
If you search the big auction website you can find 200grit diamond stones for $4-$5 that fit the EP and they work great for reprofile jobs on high carbide volume steel.
 
I will highly recommend the 120 for your purposes. The 220 doesn't cut that well and tends to clog. I haven't used diamond plates much, but I'd be concerned that they might lose their diamonds under the pressure the EP leverage causes.
 
In my experiences nothing's works like Diamonds when it comes to high carbide steels
 
I just used the edge pro to reprofile a knife. The stock EP 120 is a very soft stone. Lots of slurry. If you are aggressively reprofiling it will probably wear and dish out the stone rather quick. Im going to get a diamond plate if i need to go that coarse again. The 220 EP stone is much harder and still fairly aggressive for light reprofiling. It does clog up very quickly though. Ive switch to the chosera stones for 400 and above
 
When I had a EP I found the 120 to dish easily. Right before I sold mine I was looking for some kind of mountable diamond stone. I remember trying to finish a M4 reprofile with the 220 stone and it taking forever. Just my 2 cents.
 
120 does dish quickly, but for a major reprofile I would still start there especially on super steels. I have used the 220 as a starter on 1095 and that was okay, but I bet a 220 on m390 would take a long time to remove a lot of material.

Make sure to protect the blade with painters tape or the 120 slurry will scuff up the sides of it.
 
i got the atoma 140 plate from CKTG and while it is significantly more costly than an EP stock stone, I found it pays for itself quickly just in its swiftness for re-profiling
 
Just tried out the CKTG 140 Diamond EP plate & for heavy work stock EP stones don't even compare. You'll need to follow with a course stone of similar grit to grind out the 140 scratch pattern. I went with a Shapton Glass 220 & thinking about picking up a Bamboo 150 as well A very skilled forum member gave me a tip to use a DMT course followed by 1micron diamond on Balsa for my high Carbide knives & it is now my preferred edge. The strop refines it but it still has a nice toothiness to it & seems to just bite in & cut anything I put to it.
 
220 stone doesn't cut as well as the 120, I've found to get better speed, dress the 220 stone. Diamonds are good, but make sure to use light pressure or you'll easily strip them out of their plate.

Atoma is decent for the price, worth it on some of the super steels.
 
I have balsa for both, I use the freehand option majority of the time as it's quicker, just set it in the counter & strop.
 
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