Edge Pro and old Strykers

jkarp_53

jkarp_53

Joined
May 25, 2006
Messages
3,982
I've got an old combo edged Benchmade Stryker and was wondering if any of you have tricks to sharpening the non-serrated edge on the EP Apex table...the issue is: with the thumb disk being in the way there's not much of the blade to set flat so I can get at the edge - and I don't have a Torx driver that works to remove the disk, I've tried that.

Thanks for any ideas in advance...

Joe K.
 
Greetings jkarp_53: High thumb studs or a disk are a foreseeable complication when using the EdgePro or even bench stones when you are sharpening at a comparatively acute angle. I have found two ways to address the problem when reprofiling on the Edgepro. 1) Remove the plastic guard from the front of the guide. Position the blade with the disk or stud adjacent to the side of the table. Tape up the sides of the table to avoid their abrasion from the serrated edge of the disk. Adjust the guide to position the non-serrated edge portion at the forward table edge. Sharpen it as you would a short bladed knife but use the disk as a pivot point when rotating the edge along the front of the table. Keep all strokes within the width of the table. Or ~ 2) Make a shim (piece of wood, plastic, stack of taped up popsicle sticks, etc) thick enough to elevate the blade above the table so that the disk does not touch the table surface. Position the knife on the shim with the blade edge in line with the forward edge of the EdgePro table. Adjust the guide with the plastic guard attached to hold the shim and knife there. The colored angle indicators on the vertical stone arm support rod will now be useless. Ignore them. Adjust the stone arm angle until it contacts the blade edge and then fine tune as needed. Sharpen as you normally would. This works for me. OldDude1
 
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I don't know where you live, but all the home centers here sell really cheap screwdriver sets made for key rings. I picked up a torx set for about $3.95. Each one looks like a small door key but with the torx bit instead of notches. I always take off the disk from Strykers, the stud from 710's etc., using these. I even use the larger size to deal with the pivot screw. A really cheap answer to a simple question.

Stitchawl
 
As Stitchawl wisely suggested, a proper sized Torx driver is much simpler solution to the problem of knives equipped with a disk. If however the problem is protruding thumb studs, which are press-fitted into the blade or a stripped disk screw, the above method may be the fastest way to go. By the way, page two of the EdgePro manual ( the index page), mentions constructing something similar to the shim. It is referred to it as a "Riser Block". It is recommended for very small blades but will work for this too. OldDude1
 
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Thanks guys...#1 I will look for that driver. #2 In the case of all other opening types like standard studs they always come off. #3 I will check out that video with my thanks...

Now isn't there something to be said about the famous Spydie hole at this point?? Makes things just a little easier all around. :thumbup: :cool:
 
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