Edge Pro and Small Blades

S

soapboxpreacher

Joined
Apr 3, 2010
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First some background so I can lay some ground work. I have used a sharpmaker, worksharp, and DMT to this point...all given a fair amount of knives. Ok, I like my spyderco sharpmaker and I like my DMT Magna Guide but neither I think are stellar.

The spyderco even with the diamond rods is time consuming and isnt perfect...nor really meant to be, there is a lot of deviation with this system. It seems more suitable for maintaining. I have wrapped some rods in sandpaper which did work well and got the edge reprofiled significantly faster than the diamond! As I progressed along I looked thru a loupe it does achieve an incredible edge that is fine with excellent smooth grain however their is a big lack of a precision or constant angle due to the technique so it wont get blades perfect. Then there is the big tip issue it is a total b*t*h! Not to mention can get knocked off extremely easy. but it is fast and does a solid job overall. I have sharpened a pretty good number of knives and like it most for kitchen were there is less noticeable deviation. It does produce a more fine and refined edge then the magna with the dia-folds. Stropping would more or less take care of this but with the sharpmakers and the ceramic rods it really leaves the edge finished well! But the sharpmaker struggles with tough steel...D2...even S30V...it just takes a while! The ceramic rods leaves a great fine finish on the edge at really all coarses.

The DMT Magna is nice as well but did feel extremely limited, to do larger blades with this sharpener is really a pain. I did like the constant angle ensuring I get it right all the time. But the finish at similar grits to the ceramic werent nearly as pleasing under the loupe. It doe and can take off a lot but I didnt think it was earth shattering. I did a number of folders with it. A number of inconsistent factory edges and got them back to a proper equal profile. It is a marvel on fixing tips...I like it, it is also easy to handle. But its angles are limited...doesnt go far enough down on a few blades such as the Mora 2000 (Nearly took my finger tip off while freehanding) and the 2010. Plus the aligner clips very good but still leaves a little to be desired. I did tend to get a better edge although not as visually pleasing under the loupe as the Sharpmaker. Both systems I used a sharpie to the edge. If you are serious about sharpening a loupe and a sharpie are a necessity!

So I have been holding off on the Edge Pro Apex because one I have invested a ton now with the other two...total of 150+ with the diamond rods for the sharp and the 2 ultra finds...the ultra fines I feel are a must the diamonds you could easily skip and wrap the rods in some sandpaper. But anyway, I am wondering how the edge pro can handle as well as hold small blades like Mini-Grips, Mini-Barrages, Mini-Lawman, soon to have HEST Folder, and a number of Leatherman and SAK. Can it do these well? Will I get that pretty edge I see under the loupe when I look at the work I have done with the sharpmaker? I will probably keep the sharpmaker. It is pretty good and versatile. I dont know if I will keep the diamond rods...they might go back (I didnt used much pressure either they are just not that impressive and seemed to wear or get dirty fast).

But it winds back to what I am asking is the edge pro apex the answer I am looking for? Will it do the variety I am looking for (ESEE Junglas, RC6, RC4, Kitchen, Folders, BM, S30V, M390, recurves, etc). The beautiful edge I long for, a more accurate bevel, and a wonderful mirror finish?
 
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The EdgePro can put a perfect edge on any size knife regardless of edge configuration or steel. :thumbup:

I've used mine on machetes, tiny pen blades, double edged daggers, triple re-curved kris, wide Texas Bowies, narrow Leatherman Wave blades (which, oddly enough, were the most difficult,) big and small kitchen knives with single and double bevels, all sorts of folders and fixed blades, and everything in between.

Does that give you some idea of its effectiveness? :D

With the EdgePro, together with the Sharpmaker and a DMT Aligner, you are set for any and all contingencies.


Stitchawl
 
I had a heck of a time using the Edge Pro on my Leatherman Skeletool. The blade doesnt sit flat on the table, it tends to rock and move. Felt like trying to hold a half round rock on the table!

It will do it, but it is a pain to achieve consistency.

For this blade I used my W.E. For a lot of the other styles, I use the Edge Pro.
 
ricklee is partially correct. Blades with irregularly ground primary bevels will be hard to sharpen.

I've done work on a Mini-Griptilian, Izula, Swamp Warden and some light weight folders. I have no problem giving them an edge I love and admire.

I can tell you the problem with sharpening Multitools is the weight. While sharpening large heavy cleavers, most of the weight is on the Edge Pro system itself unlike a Multitool. Holding it on the table will take more effort than sliding the Stone back and forth.
 
xtestifyx said:
ricklee is partially correct. Blades with irregularly ground primary bevels will be hard to sharpen.

I've done work on a Mini-Griptilian, Izula, Swamp Warden and some light weight folders. I have no problem giving them an edge I love and admire.

I can tell you the problem with sharpening Multitools is the weight. While sharpening large heavy cleavers, most of the weight is on the Edge Pro system itself unlike a Multitool. Holding it on the table will take more effort than sliding the Stone back and forth.
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This is true, something I had not really considered. The extra handle weight affects the balance considerably. Im not saying it cant be done on the Edge Pro, Im just saying it is not as easy as other blade styles on the Edge Pro,.
 
ricklee4570 said:
This is true, something I had not really considered. The extra handle weight affects the balance considerably. Im not saying it cant be done on the Edge Pro, Im just saying it is not as easy as other blade styles on the Edge Pro,.
Click to expand...

As I said in my post, it was the Leatherman Wave that gave me trouble. But I solved the problem with a simple clamp. A one-handed trigger clamp from the DIY shop, $2.95, and the oddly contoured Wave blade caused no further problem. To date, it's the only blade that I need to clamp, though I'm sure in the future there might be more.


Stitchawl
 
I have had the edgepro apex 4 for about 2 weeks now. I have had no issues with any knife. I would however suggest you start with an old junker knife until you get the hang of it. I had been using a microsharp on my global knives for sometime. This worked ok but not the greatest. Was not as sharp as I wanted and scratched the blade up in some spots. I didnt take no time at all to get the knife hair spliting sharp. I have also used it on some pocket knives and a few other chef knives. I love it !
 
Thought it was rather embarrassing when I demonstrated the E.P. to a buddy for the first time and his Leatherman blade wouldn't sit still. Will have to try the mini clamp method. That's about the only knife I've ever had trouble with on the E.P.
 
ricklee4570 said:
I had a heck of a time using the Edge Pro on my Leatherman Skeletool. The blade doesnt sit flat on the table, it tends to rock and move. Felt like trying to hold a half round rock on the table!

It will do it, but it is a pain to achieve consistency.

For this blade I used my W.E. For a lot of the other styles, I use the Edge Pro.
Click to expand...

So the WE was easier for the small blades? How bout a ESEE Junglas on the WE?
 
BladeChemist said:
Thought it was rather embarrassing when I demonstrated the E.P. to a buddy for the first time and his Leatherman blade wouldn't sit still. Will have to try the mini clamp method. That's about the only knife I've ever had trouble with on the E.P.
Click to expand...

A clamp isn't necessary, and works against the design features of the EdgePro. Watch the EP videos... and how a knife is held between the stone and blade table. Spend the extra time to figure out how to do it without a clamp... your ability to use the EP will improve, and won't be hindered by using something not needed in the first place.

cbw
 
cbwx34 said:
A clamp isn't necessary, and works against the design features of the EdgePro. Watch the EP videos... and how a knife is held between the stone and blade table. Spend the extra time to figure out how to do it without a clamp... your ability to use the EP will improve, and won't be hindered by using something not needed in the first place.

cbw
Click to expand...

? I'm sure my sharpening ability will improve, but that Skeletool blade was a pain. Have you sharpened, specifically, the Skeletool blade before on the E.P.?
 
I've done Leatherman blades similiar, but not that one specifically. I just looked up the Skeletool... there's nothing unusual about it vs. blades I've done. I can tell you without even watching you sharpen... you're probably using too much pressure on the arm which is why you can't hold the blade steady, and/or you're gripping the blade handle too hard. Call Ben, he'll have other tips if you need them, or watch the videos where he specifically addresses this. None of them will involve a clamp. If you want to use a clamp, that's up to you, but you'll benefit more from just learning how to sharpen it without one, and the learning curve is short enough it shouldn't be that big an issue. There is no reason I know of, that you need to hold a knife on the blade table any better with a clamp, than you can without one... and I've done a lot of different knives. And the design features of the EP you lose, outweigh the supposed benefits you think you'll gain. That's why I say this is a bad idea. Your choice.

cbw
 
BladeChemist said:
Thought it was rather embarrassing when I demonstrated the E.P. to a buddy for the first time and his Leatherman blade wouldn't sit still. Will have to try the mini clamp method. That's about the only knife I've ever had trouble with on the E.P.
Click to expand...

While it certainly is possible to sharpen blades such as the Leatherman's without a clamp, as it's the only blade many of us have found to cause difficulties, and clamping it only adds an extra 10 seconds to the entire sharpening process and solves the problem, there is no reason not to use one.

I don't know if Ben is still shipping that little plastic folder spine holder piece ( a 3" section of the folded plastic spine that slips over the report folder to hold papers in place) that he uses for double edged blades with diamond cross sections, but it certainly shipped with mine. This was Ben's solution (not mine) for dealing with blades that didn't have a flat surface to contact the table. I still use this (or a more sturdy version of the same idea) when sharpening blades such as the traditional Sykes-Fairbirn commando knife with its diamond shaped blade. Even Ben knew that sometimes his table alone wasn't enough. The name of the game is 'get the job done,' not 'confine yourself to rules.'

Stitchawl
 
I'm sure this has been said here before probably, but I think where the EP really shines is re-profiling. I had to hog off a LOT of steel on my Ka-Bar combat/survival knife, but it worked fairly quickly and looks great. Now, I can just use my SM once in a while to bring the edge back real fast. I think the EP and the SM are a perfect combo.
 
iammark said:
I'm sure this has been said here before probably, but I think where the EP really shines is re-profiling. I had to hog off a LOT of steel on my Ka-Bar combat/survival knife, but it worked fairly quickly and looks great. Now, I can just use my SM once in a while to bring the edge back real fast. I think the EP and the SM are a perfect combo.
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I agree. :thumbup:

Once you get a bevel to match any of the angles on the SM, you're back to hair whittling in less than 20 strokes unless you've really gone to town on your edges.
 
soapboxpreacher said:
stitchawl you have a picture of the spine holder?
Click to expand...

No, but if you've ever had several papers to hand in to a teacher or a boss, you've used one. Picture this; a plastic sheet folded in half to be the size just a wee bit larger than a standard sheet of paper (these things come in several standard sizes.) You place your group of papers inside, then slide a small plastic 'spine' that clamps everything together. Lemme see if I can find a photo on the net...
report-cover-308.jpg


Only the plastic spine piece was sent by Ben with the EdgePro, with instructions to slide it over the guide fence. When spread slightly, the back side of this spine forms a concaved surface that can hold the opposite side of a double edged blade. I discovered that by using a hard plastic tube with a slit in it, placing it over the rear edge of the blade instead of on the guide worked even better for larger blades with diamond cross sections. It was that, or change the very shape of the platform bed! Often improvisation is the key to success.

Stitchawl
 
iammark said:
I'm sure this has been said here before probably, but I think where the EP really shines is re-profiling. I had to hog off a LOT of steel on my Ka-Bar combat/survival knife, but it worked fairly quickly and looks great. Now, I can just use my SM once in a while to bring the edge back real fast. I think the EP and the SM are a perfect combo.
Click to expand...

I agree with you! :thumbup:
EdgePro is great, and I will always use it. But I'll only use it 3-4 times a year on a blade, not every week to touch it up. The Sharpmaker and the DMT Aligner work better for that for me.


Stitchawl
 
I've stopped using my DMT aligner kit. It just makes it necessary to reset the bevel more often with the edge pro and I have to remove a lot of metal to reach the edges that will be at about 44 degrees inclusive(lowest angle I can get with my DMT aligner kit).

The DMT takes of metal quite fast. If I touch up often, even starting with the red(fine) my microbevels quickly become visible, which is my cue for resetting the bevel on the edge pro.
 
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