Edgepro documentation refers to the primary bevel as the edge and the secondary bevel as the face of the knife behind the edge. For the purposes of this discussion I refer to the primary bevel as the portion of the face of the knife directly behind the edge, and the secondary bevel as the cutting edge.
As to what you are describing, this is usually because there is a portion directly in front of the ricasso that forms a plunge line that tapers towards the belly of the blade before the functional portion of the edge.
As such, directly in front of the ricasso will be a thick piece of tapering metal that looks like the edge, but is not the edge origin. A few millimeters past the ricasso a functional edge forms that will not be very wide. Towards the tip, the width of the edge will be wider.
This is a function of the grind of a knife and the application of a fixed angle to a grind that varies in thickness from ricasso to tip. Ben at Edgepro states that on some blades this area should not be sharpened or it will eventually hollow out the blade. Eventually you will probably grind out your own sharpening choil if you keep trying to sharpen at that plunge line. Ben recommends just to leave that part alone.
It is also why some knife-makers purposefully grind a sharpening choil there so that you do not have to worry about it. In such cases, a small indentation has been made between the ricasso and the edge. Effectively, that section has been hollowed out preemptively by the maker and the knife will appear to have less usable edge. The edge that remains should be relatively uniform and you can sharpen all the way to that choil.
This is more of a function of the differences in grind throughout the knife than it is in the limitations of the edgepro.
Applying a consistent angle to an inconsistent grind will result in disparities in the width of the edge from ricasso to tip.
Your description of the problem, that:
Whenever I try to sharpen my knives, the created bevel is inconsistent throughout the blade.
is normal on knives that have been sharpened on an edgepro. Achieving an equal angle along the secondary bevel (the cutting edge) comes at the cost of unequal width.
Most hand-sharpened knives that come to you finished on a belt have variance in the edge angle that you will end up correcting for when you reprofile with the edgepro.
The natural curve of the edge introduces different thicknesses of steel such that you will remove progressively more metal at the tip because you have to thin out that much more based on the grind of the knife. You can minimize this by putting on a more obtuse angle (resulting in less reprofiling of the primary bevel behind the edge) but I think you will find yourself a happier person if you ignore the plunge line and come to terms with unequal edge width from ricasso to tip in exchange for the equal edge angles that the edgepro can provide!
Wharncliffes tend to exhibit less of this as well, at least towards the tip, but that won't solve your plunge line/ricasso transition problem.
I might also add that there are really only a few scenarios that will require use of the diamond stones. They are very aggressive and will remove alot of metal. They could be useful for your first reprofile, but once you are maintaining the edge I would advise to touch up the blade with a much higher grit stone.
Let me know if that helps!
:thumbup:
