Edge pro...how the hell? Please help..

Robdude

Robdude

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Feb 27, 2015
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K im new at this edge pro.. i have a tglb im trying to sharpen but just like my ffbm..it seems the angle changes from near the choil and out to the tip.. ??
Do you guys try to follow the changing angle or just re profile the whole edge to be the same ??
How do you guys deal with this??:(:confused:
 
Take three measurements and find the best compromise.

Measure the tip, middle and base of the blade. Do a calculation and find the best compromise.

Couple tips. The clamp will be more towards the tip of the blade than the base and there will be some sort of cant (angle) where the tip is more toward the user and the pommel is more towards the edge pro in order to get the most even DPS along the entire length of the sharpened edge.

Hope that helps.
 
Ultimately you need to find the sweet spot.

Any distance past about 1/2" from the base is going to start changing the angle of approach for the stones. If you sharpen a longer knife resting the spine on the ricasso you will get a much steeper angle near the tip. The sweet spot is the point on the blade where this is minimized.

If you want to keep the original angle as close as possible start with a high grit stone and sharpie the edge, keep adjusting until you see the most contact with the existing cutting edge. I'd also use the sharpie to make a reference mark for where the blade sits on the rest.

Also, be sure to use light consistent contact while sharpening. It's easy to increase pressure closer to the tip which will flex the rod and also deflect the angle

Finally, I always did perpendicular "chopping" strokes up to 400 or so grit, then move to parallel strokes to start setting up the polished edge appearance if that's what I was going for. Toothy edges I always stick with perpendicular sharpening.

Here's a good reference using the Wicked Edge, but the same principle applies, well worth the watch.

 
If you watch the Edge Pro designer YT video as he explains how to use the device, he has a specific area where he talks about sharpening a longer blade, and visually demonstrates it. He sharpens about one third of the blade length, then moves the knife to sharpen the middle portion, and finally moves the tip of the blade into the "action area..." (my term) If you do NOT move your knife in this manner, the tip of your blade will tend to have a wider ground bevel as the angle changes slightly when you get too far from the middle "action area." Certain very qualified experts do NOT move the long blade while sharpening and just accept the bevel change. However, I don't like the looks of such a sharpened blade and therefore move a longer blade in order to get a more consistent bevel. It looks more "professional" and seems logical.
NOTE: the "action area" is the common central area of the EDGE PRO where your general sharpening takes place.
 
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