Edge pro in use. Burr?

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rc3mil

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Hi guys. I have heard from the members here and even the people in the videos say you should get a burr THEN flip over the blade and do the other side. But the people in these videos don't. They just flip over the blade and do the other side without feeling for a burr at all. Im getting my Edge Pro Apex today so im just trying to get the principle down before i start.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1izC_NU15es

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1oIz_G0bdU&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymJydg8k_AA&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTuofPT6ls8
 
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The principle is to grind each side so the edge is in the center line of the knife when finished. Working one side until you get a burr is not always the best idea.
 
I would think that getting a burr would be better. It means that you're really getting to the edge.
 
singularity35 said:
I would think that getting a burr would be better. It means that you're really getting to the edge.
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Yes, getting the burr to form is part of the process it just how you go about it that can make the difference between FUBAR and good job.
 
I still dont fully understand what i should do. I guess i will try get a burr. I really hope this system works well for me. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
singularity35 said:
I would think that getting a burr would be better. It means that you're really getting to the edge.
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Far too often the burr is not a sign that you reached the edge, rather it is a sign that you reached it some number of strokes ago. While it is often advisable for novices to witness a burr, it is something that can become a pitfall in and of itself.

If you are totally lost, you look to the stars and find your way, but the stars are not your destination. Similarly, in sharpening a burr can be your guide, but if you know your way, you can get to your destination without seeing it.
 
Unit, I don't think anyone could have said it better.


rc3mil, no offence but, lots of advice has been given to you and you are still asking the same questions. You are looking for a tool to solve your problems of sharpening but that is simply not going to happen, you must learn the basics of sharpening and have at least some what of a understanding of how things happen or you will never get the results you hope for.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Unit, I don't think anyone could have said it better.


rc3mil, no offence but, lots of advice has been given to you and you are still asking the same questions. You are looking for a tool to solve your problems of sharpening but that is simply not going to happen, you must learn the basics of sharpening and have at least some what of a understanding of how things happen or you will never get the results you hope for.
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No offense taken. The advice that i have gotten here on the forums is that you MUST get a burr on one side of the blade and then flip over and do the same thing. I accepted that and Ive tried it and it worked out decently for me. The only reason i posted this question, is that i saw others on youtube sharpening with the Edge Pro and NOT feeling for a burr. Instead they just flip the blade over when they see fit. I was just trying to clarify what was going on.
 
rc3mil said:
No offense taken. The advice that i have gotten here on the forums is that you MUST get a burr on one side of the blade and then flip over and do the same thing. I accepted that and Ive tried it and it worked out decently for me. The only reason i posted this question, is that i saw others on youtube sharpening with the Edge Pro and NOT feeling for a burr. Instead they just flip the blade over when they see fit. I was just trying to clarify what was going on.
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I didn't watch them but that's one of two things, 1) they are just watching the bevel to see when it "looks" like they need to flip or 2) they know what they are looking for and when the right time to flip is. I personally never rely on just one method of checking the edge, I look under bright light, feel with my fingers and finger nail, and use magnified inspection. Being able to look closely at your edge is very important, surprisingly though you can see more with your eyes and bright light than you think. If you have good vision you will be able to see the edge in such detail that watching the burr from a 3 micron compound be removed by a 1 micron compound is possible with the aid of bright light. Constant inspection must be made, the more you see the more you can correct and the better you edge will become.


The EP is a good tool to make sharp edges but it will NOT be your "be all end all" to sharpening. Try and think of sharpening like a science and always continue your research, it might also help to google search verhoeven sharpening and download the PDF. Its a long read but I think it will help you to understand a lot about what sharpening is.
 
knifenut1013 said:
The EP is a good tool to make sharp edges but it will NOT be your "be all end all" to sharpening. Try and think of sharpening like a science and always continue your research, it might also help to google search verhoeven sharpening and download the PDF. Its a long read but I think it will help you to understand a lot about what sharpening is.
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I agree with this. I'll also say that since getting my EP years ago, I have paid attention to what it has taught me, and I have learned a ton from it. It basically removes several of the variables from sharpening.

My freehand sharpening is 100 times better thanks to my EP. I don't use it as much as I used to, but still do from time to time. My EP edges are still better than my freehand, but the gap has closed significantly.

If you pay attention and use the EP correctly, you can match (and usually exceed) almost anyone's edges, bar none. We used to talk a lot about being able to push cut several inches away from the gripping hand when holding newspaper or yellow pages. I can easily and consistently get 6 inches with my EP, and you will be able to as well.

Good luck, and have fun! And watch the DVD many times!
 
Thanks guys. Gona give it my best shot. ill be sure to watch the DVD first. Been waiting for UPS all morning :( Wish they would just get here.
 
I used to sharpen one side until the entire edge was uniform on one side, and then I would switch. This caused my knives to have steeper bevels on my strong side than my weak side.

What I do now is do about 20 passes on one side, then switch to the other and do some 20 passes. This is assuming reprofiling, of course, not regular sharpening. Of course you should mark your bevels with a sharpie to see what you're doing.
 
Using a good magnifier (at least 5x -10x) under bright light makes all the difference. Some steels will make obvious burrs that can be felt with a fingertip or seen with the naked eye. But other steels won't always make it that clear. A magnifier will allow you to see, either way, and will also make it obvious if your two bevels are actually meeting completely at the edge.
 
All right, you've been playing with it long enough. I want a full report before you go to bed tonight.
 
sodak said:
All right, you've been playing with it long enough. I want a full report before you go to bed tonight.
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lol funny thing is, i waited all day for UPS to deliver it and at 16:20 i finally had to go to work so i didnt get to see it. When i got home it was here but i had to leave immediately to go pick up my wife from a party and i ended up staying until 3 am. I just woke up and her grandmother is here..... She has plans. Looks like im gona have to wait till she leaves on Sunday before i can play with it, Dammit lol
 
Well first off id like to thank everyone who gave me advice on sharpening. Secondly id like to thank everyone who told me about the Edge Pro cause dam does this thing make a knife sharp. Seriously, my RC3 is sharper than it ever has been. It shaves hair clean off my leg, push cuts paper and push cuts paracord. It slice phone book paper with ease. I have a razor sharp edge from the handle right to the tip and i can literally see my reflection on the edge. WOW. This thing is SHARP. I had recently screwed up my RC3 on a waterstone, it looked almost convex/rounded and it didn't cut worth a dam. I used the 18" setting. I started on the 120 grit stone and did one side of the knife until i was happy with the edge it created and there was a burr on the opposite side. Flipped it over and did it again. I did this twice on every stone all the way up to the 1000 grit. I then used the polishing tapes and oh boy was this thing like a mirror. I held the sharpie next to it and i could read it on the edge :eek: It took a little while but only cause of the reprofiling. I think now that i have set the edge, it should take me maybe 20 - 30 minutes to get a sharp edge back again.

Im very happy with this system and it only takes +- 5 minutes to set it up. Really not a bother and SO worth it. Might post some pics if i can find my camera..

Thanks guys ;)
 
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Leave the butter knives as is. You can really irritate your wife when she's not expecting them to be sharp. Not that I would know... ;)
 
sodak said:
Leave the butter knives as is. You can really irritate your wife when she's not expecting them to be sharp. Not that I would know... ;)
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lol. Good advice :thumbup:Cant say i didnt think about it already ;)
 
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