Edge Pro newbie questions...

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Nov 30, 2006
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I'm a relative newbie to the realm of guided sharpening systems and I am about to pull the trigger on an Edge Pro Apex system. I'm trying to stay ahead of the curve and will also be ordering an angle cube and shaft collar as well. My only experience with "guided" sharpening has been w/the DMT Aligner. From what I have read here, many have had better results with some aftermarket edgepro accessories than with the OEM stones. My question to you guy's in the know is WHICH Apex system would be by best option (with the addition of aftermarket stones/diamond hones etc.) Should I purchase the meat-'n-potatoes "basic system OR the upgraded kit #2 or 3. I want to be able to sharpen/re-profile folders and small fixed blades and the occasional Buck 110. My knives are limited to mostly carbon steel with several D2
S30V, ATS34, & CM154...nothing realy exotic. Should I just go for the basic APEX and upgrade with aftermarket accessories. If so please suggest which (specific) accessories, and/or aftermarket upgrades upgrades to the basic kit.

TIA
Ron
 
I would recommend the basic kit to start with. Once you've mastered it, you will know which accessories you need.
 
I've been using an Edge Pro for almost 3 years. Yes, get the basic system first. There are lots of different stones to get depending on what you want. Let's look at three categories, re-profiling, sharpening and polishing the bevel. I used only the EP stones and then about a month ago I got three stones from Congress Tools. They have lots of types and grits and sizes of stones. I got the 320, 400 and 600 grit moldmaster stones. Theses are great for polishing and sharpening. You need coarser grits for faster, more aggressive cutting when re-profiling. The 120 and 220 EP stones have done a great job for me. I want some diamond stones later but that's another story. So, to answer your question I think the basic system is wiser. I got the Apex #4 which also comes with a 1200 grit ceramic steel and polishing tapes. These are great tools and some people love them but I don't use them. So I spent money on stuff I don't use which I hate. But, you may like the tapes and ceramic steel. They are good products, it's matter of preference. I strop instead of use the tapes. Jendeindustries.com also has several choices for stones for the EP. If/when you get the EP I believe one thing for sure. You'll have as good a system as there is. There are a couple of others that I've never used but have seen the videos. They seem nice but not "better" in any way than the EP. It sets up easily and is easy to use. There will be a short learning curve like with any new tool. You will be able to sharpen any knife at whatever angle is already on the edge or re-profile it to any angle you want. The main drawback to any system is a limitation on angle settings. The EP is 100% limitless.

Jack
 
What is an angle cube? Can anyone give me a picture or better yet a web site to see or maybe buy one? Thanks,

Jack
 
EP pro is pretty much limitless, the Apex, for most knives and most applications is far superior to free hand sharpening (for me) Better than paper wheels (for me, I like the perfect bevels), better than slack belts (again, for me, convex is ok, but I prefer the bevels)

Need or want for better or different after market parts/stones.

I'll give you my two cents.

1. Make a base that has traction, take the suction cups off and run nuts on, solid no slip, no perfect surface required like with the suction cups.

I've talked with Mr. Dale a few times, I maintain my preference for a more solid base to work on, I hate watching the legs flex when I'm hogging off metal while re-profiling, so grab a drill and make divots for the legs to set in, in the base.

2. The EP system gave me a feel for free hand sharpening, knowing what angles look like I can more easily replicate them, or in the case of hard use knives/machetes I can do my re-profiling on a large water stone and then finish up the edge on the system.

3. I'd like the shear/scissor attachment for the EP apex, I use kitchen shears a lot more now, especially for chicken and I'd like the increased performance of having them sharpened.

4. As a newbie, learning what you and your knives like for the work that you have them for, this system is amazing even with the basic kit... or whichever one has the 600 grit stone. I prefer the edge it gives me for most tasks.

5. Get some green polishing compound and learn to strop, there are so many mediums on which to strop, mine is my jeans on my thigh, trailing strokes.

6. Watch the DVD, then watch it again and again.
 
EP pro is pretty much limitless, the Apex, for most knives and most applications is far superior to free hand sharpening (for me) Better than paper wheels (for me, I like the perfect bevels), better than slack belts (again, for me, convex is ok, but I prefer the bevels)

Need or want for better or different after market parts/stones.

I'll give you my two cents.

1. Make a base that has traction, take the suction cups off and run nuts on, solid no slip, no perfect surface required like with the suction cups.

I've talked with Mr. Dale a few times, I maintain my preference for a more solid base to work on, I hate watching the legs flex when I'm hogging off metal while re-profiling, so grab a drill and make divots for the legs to set in, in the base.

2. The EP system gave me a feel for free hand sharpening, knowing what angles look like I can more easily replicate them, or in the case of hard use knives/machetes I can do my re-profiling on a large water stone and then finish up the edge on the system.

3. I'd like the shear/scissor attachment for the EP apex, I use kitchen shears a lot more now, especially for chicken and I'd like the increased performance of having them sharpened.

4. As a newbie, learning what you and your knives like for the work that you have them for, this system is amazing even with the basic kit... or whichever one has the 600 grit stone. I prefer the edge it gives me for most tasks.

5. Get some green polishing compound and learn to strop, there are so many mediums on which to strop, mine is my jeans on my thigh, trailing strokes.

6. Watch the DVD, then watch it again and again.

I agree with everything plus my 2 cents. I glued a 12" mirror to a piece of wood and use the suction cups to mount it on the mirror (glass would work but I only had a mirror). The piece of wood is portable of course and I like it. Also, I can drip water all over and just wipe it up. I'd like to get a piece of glass or plexi-glass and put a picture of my grandson under it. Maybe I will. Just an idea. And, I don't believe the scissor attachment will fit on the Apex. You need the Pro model EP to use the scissor attch. I would love to have it myself but I don't want it enough to pay for the pro model.

Jack
 
I agree with everything plus my 2 cents. I glued a 12" mirror to a piece of wood and use the suction cups to mount it on the mirror (glass would work but I only had a mirror). The piece of wood is portable of course and I like it. Also, I can drip water all over and just wipe it up. I'd like to get a piece of glass or plexi-glass and put a picture of my grandson under it. Maybe I will. Just an idea. And, I don't believe the scissor attachment will fit on the Apex. You need the Pro model EP to use the scissor attch. I would love to have it myself but I don't want it enough to pay for the pro model.

Jack

The scissor attachment doesn't fit, I was saying I'd like it for the apex. ;)
 
The scissor attachment doesn't fit, I was saying I'd like it for the apex. ;)

Gotcha, I misunderstood. I'd like to see one for the Apex also. We should go to Ben Dale's house on halloween, knock on his door and say "trick or scissor attch for the Apex". :) If he doesn't design one for the Apex we would have to egg and toilet paper his house. It's a halloween rule. :D

Jack
 
How are those Naniwa stones compared to the Shapton and Chosera stones? I'm just looking for some other options for my EP.
 
Scissors can be sharpened on the Edge pro (not just on the pro model that has a fixture to hold them). Use a small vicegrip to hold the scissor blade against the end of the table. Place a small piece of wood inside the table so that the teeth of the vicegrip don't cut into the plastic of the table. Use a felt pen to find the correct angle for the stones. Remove the burr early by closing the blade of the scissors a couple of times.

Lou
 
Ok, I get what you're saying, but to stick with the factory angle the scissors I have would have to sit with the spine resting on the table, I suppose I could make a clamp with 2x4s and a couple bolts that would sit flush on the table.

Off to the drawing board.
 
Skimo no clamp is necessary. Simply attach the scissors with the vicegrip to the edge of the table that is closest to you when normally using it. The flat part of the scissors blade, the part that rubs against the other blade, goes against the blade table on the end of it. For right handed scissors, the finger loop will be on your right.

If you can't get enough elevation of the pivot shaft to get the right angle − tape a toothpick or a bit of wire coat hanger to the scissors blade to angle the bottom of it away from the table.


Lou
 
Okay, I had to try what you said.... it worked!

Lou, you friggin rock!
 
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Here's an example of an "angle cube" from Wixey:

http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-D...GBRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1316144256&sr=8-1

It's a device that measures tilt relative to earth's gravity. In other words, it's like a machinist measuring bubble-level, except it has a digital readout and can cover a very wide range of angles.

I like the Wixey cube; it has accuracy and repeatability of 0.1 degrees, which is pretty good. There are several other brands as well.
 
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