edge pro question

spyken

spyken

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Apr 29, 2002
Messages
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I have had my edge pro for quite awhile now. I have a sharpmaker too. Usually I use the edge pro to reprofile, then touch up with the sharpie. The one reason I don't use my edge pro more often is that I find it difficult:

(1) to get the correct angle which corresponds with the sharpmaker (for eg. 15 degrees on the edge pro is not the same as the 15 degrees on the sharpmaker)

(2) I can't seem to sharpen the area near the ricasso well (always very difficult for me to get a burr there - the stones don't seem to be touching that area)

(3) I also don't know how/where to place my folders (all under 4 inch) or fixed blades which have distal tapers or sabre grinds on the table.

Do I lay the flat portion of the blade so that it contacts 100% with the table (this means the edge portion does not contact with the edge of the table)? Or do I lean the blade downwards so that the edge of table contacts with the hollow-ground portion/edge portion of the blade? On some knives it is really difficult to make sure that the hollow ground portion of the blade contacts with the table cos of a large flat ricasso area? Which ones gives the proper edge angle?

Does anyone understand my problem and can help?

I can of course get a shaving sharp edge with the edge pro, but have difficult sharpening on the left side of the blade (my movements are not as co-ordinated as my right side).

I know this may come as sacriligeous (spelling?) to all the edge pro fanatics out there. Perhaps I should email Ben Dale about this trouble I have? I don't want to return the edge pro as I spent quite a bit on it and haven't yet recouped my investment.

I find the sharpmaker more idiot proof for a technically challenged person like me, so have just ordered the diamond sleeves as my blade(s) are in VG10.
 
The angle settings from one device to another rarely match up, even a small change like one degree is enough to cause you to spend a long time honing the shoulder. However I would suggest with the Edge Pro that it should be used significantly more acutely than the Sharpmaker. This will allow the Sharpmaker touchup sessions to go much faster. If you are putting a final edge of 15 degrees on the Sharpmaker I would go around 10 on the Edge Pro (assuming you are not hacking metals and the like).

As for the ricasso, a lot of blades are not sharpened there. There was an insert with the Edge Pro I bought a few years ago that specifically mentioned a problem with bolstered kitchen knives in that area due to the shape. With fully sharpened knives I never had a problem. It may just be that the edge is much thicker there and you are just hitting the shoulder. If this is the case hogg off some metal with a coarse benchstone and try another few passes using a maker to check progress.

The angle that the knife sees will be significantly effected by how it is held. It doesn't matter how you do it, just that you do it constantly each time. You then just note what angle setting you use. I kept a small piece of paper next to the Edge Pro with short notes on various knives, which allowed a very quick tuneup. Again use the maker on edge method to check angle, just a pass then adjust, until you get matching.

But in general, if you turn a blade up, the angle which gets formed is more obtuse. If you turn a blade down (towards the floor), the angle is more acute. So letting the blade lie on the primary grind will cause a more acute angle to be formed than holding it on the flats.

As well, by all means drop Ben an email. His customer service is top quality.

-Cliff
 
I would definitely contact Ben Dale. I had a little trouble getting started too, especially since my hand was in a cast when I recieved my Edge-Pro. I actually managed to sharpen with it even so, but it was tricky. I don't know how much an international call will cost you, but it may be worthwhile to call him or to order the video. I haven't seen the video yet myself, it's one of those things I've always meant to do and never gotten around to. Bottom line; if you're having any trouble with the system or need a few tips, Ben is the man to talk to. He knows the system inside out and is very helpful with any issues you might have.
 
You are mentioning issues we all have with the Edge-Pro, which I believe is one of the few machines that lives up to its hype. It is a great machine.

First, that 'leftie' thing. It comes with practice. If it's a matter of strength, squeeze tennis balls or orthopedic putty while watching TV. It felt awkward for me, too. I seldom think about it now.

As for areas that seem hard to reach, try to flatten your stones, or 'straighten' them as many call it; do it often. Ben can also make you 'half size stones.' I had trouble with a small quarter inch area right in front of the serrations on an Emerson Commander.

Keep at it. When you finally get a knife whose bevels are uniform front to back and left to right, it's spooky! The Edge-Pro has spoiled me when I pick up just any knife.
 
Originally posted by Ichabod Poser
I had trouble with a small quarter inch area right in front of the serrations on an Emerson Commander.
Click to expand...

same problem I have - it's always the beginning portion of the blade. My observation is that only the center of the stones actually touch the blade. I doubt my 600 grit n above water stones are uneven, so what seems to be the problem?

anyone have Ben's email? cos I misplaced it....

The left side sharpening is awkward for me cos the left hand has to do the 45 degree outward sweep to the left. Just like how I can't seem to roll my kayak on the left side (right side - no problemo!) :o :mad:
 
Definately worth geting 1/2 stones. I made my own by cutting a 320 in half with a hack saw blade ( two blades actually ).
So now you have a 6 x 1/2 x 1/8 hone and this works much better on recurve blades or short blades with curves.

I still find dificulty in using my right hand to hold the knife
and in keeping the knife flat on the table.

Just go very slow. The stones seem to cut beter when used slowly and that was the main problem that I had to overcome.

When you master it, your blades will be sharper than most other systems and the edges wwill look nice too.....
 
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