Edge Pro Sharpener, Regarding Busses

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May 30, 2009
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I'd like to pick up a decent sharpening system regarded to be a standard, complete system. I've made my own strops, and have different grit compounds. I'd like something that can handle reprofiling blades, as well as general sharpening. I dont have the experience hand sharpening and convexing a blade, so I'd like something that helps in this respect. Would the Edge Pro work for all my Busse and Kin knives?

Also, which model would be sufficient? I've seen the Apex, and the Pro model both offered in different configurations. Is the Apex good enough? Unless I can find a cheaper used Pro, the Apex may be the route I go. I know there is a lot of discussion on this in the maintenance section, but I'd like opinions specifically from Busse people, regarding Busse knives.

I also discovered I own a Makita 9910 3"x18" belt sander... could this be usefull for sharpening?
 
The Edge Pro works, but gets tedious with larger blades.
It only does a V edge, no convexed:cool::cool:
 
The stones on the Edge Pro leave little to be desired, at least from my experience. They require constant cleaning or they stop working. The edge pro is tricky to use on large knives as well. However, with fresh stones and some patience the edge pro can really produce a brutally sharp, glistening V edge.

My current preferred methods for sharpening are a ceramic steel and a strop for V edges. Or a 1x30 belt sander for convexed (practice on cheap knives, and watch some youtube "how to" videos first).
 
Ok, I'm really interested in convexing my edges. Everyone seems to say its a night and day difference from the factory edge. Can it be done (carefully) with my belt sander? I just don't know if I'll be successful with the mouse pad technique. Still doing all the reading I can.
 
That depends on what kind of belt sander you have - you need a belt without a platen behind it, so the belt can conform to the shape of the blade and give you a nice curve.

Harbor Freight sells a cheap 1x30 that does the job quite nicely.


You'll also need some fine grit belts - the kind of stuff that's rarely sold in hardware stores. Lee Valley tools has a wide selection available online.
 
That depends on what kind of belt sander you have - you need a belt without a platen behind it, so the belt can conform to the shape of the blade and give you a nice curve.

Harbor Freight sells a cheap 1x30 that does the job quite nicely.


You'll also need some fine grit belts - the kind of stuff that's rarely sold in hardware stores. Lee Valley tools has a wide selection available online.

Platen huh? :confused:

I've got this:
Makita
 
Erm, I don't think that's gonna do the job.

You want something like this:

02485.gif
 
Erm, I don't think that's gonna do the job.

You want something like this:

02485.gif

Hahaha... ok. Nothing like what I have. Is that basically what you guys are talking about when you say belt sander? Man... I'm a newb. I really appreciate the patience and help guys.

ETA: Found that one on Harbor Freight. Can you really get a belt sander for $40? Will it work for anything past sharpening a knife? I mean I'm not opposed to spending a little more, but I get the idea.
 
Yep, that's a basic 1x30 belt sander. With some finesse and the right belts you can put a razor edge of any angle on most any knife in less than a minute. Regarding the edge pro, I have the apex, and it's a great device. I've sharpened up to a combat grade FBM with it and it turned out great, but it does take time. I haven't had any issues with stones loading up, but you need to keep them nice and watered down. The edgepro is at its best with lighter/shorter knives. Stuff like kitchen cutlery or anything less than 6 inches and it's great for putting a perfect edge. That said I plan on selling mine since it's made me lazy, my hand sharpening skills have gone all to hell since getting it, :(.

edit: Belt sanders are supremely flexible tools. Anything you use a bench grinder for a belt sander is usually better at. I use mine for fixing broken tips, sharpening, rust removal on tools, garden tools, and when the bug strikes me I might even grind out a knife blade or two. A 1x30 is a bit weak for knifemaking but as long as you don't hurry and use sharp belts it can be used for smaller blades.
 
Hahaha... ok. Nothing like what I have. Is that basically what you guys are talking about when you say belt sander? Man... I'm a newb. I really appreciate the patience and help guys.

ETA: Found that one on Harbor Freight. Can you really get a belt sander for $40? Will it work for anything past sharpening a knife? I mean I'm not opposed to spending a little more, but I get the idea.

It will sand anything you lay on the belt!:eek:
 
That $40 harbor freight belt sander is what I use for all my sharpening, and it can be used for lots of other detail sanding. Woodworking, tile, kydex sheath making... as Greg said, anything you can sand, you can sand on the belt sander, although it might not be ideal for some stuff ;)
 
Ok, I'm just surprised. When I think of power tools, 40 bucks doesn't come to mind. Thats awesome. I'll have to pick one up.
 
Harbor freight power tools, and tools in general from harbor freight, are CHEAP.


They are also usually junk. And the belt sander is junk. But it's functional junk. I don't expect to still be using this sander ten years from now, and I do expect that out of a Makita or Milwaukee. Still, for 40 bucks, you can sharpen an awful lot of knives before you eventually wear it out.
 
It's sort of the difference between a 2 dollar chinese ratchet and a snap-on digital torque wrench. The cheaper tool works, but it's no top-quality piece. At the same time you wouldn't buy a 500 dollar torque wrench just to tighten up your car's battery terminals. High end belt sanders run upwards of 2000 dollars, but for the purpose of sharpening are completely unecessary.
 
Ok, I'm really interested in convexing my edges. Everyone seems to say its a night and day difference from the factory edge. Can it be done (carefully) with my belt sander? I just don't know if I'll be successful with the mouse pad technique. Still doing all the reading I can.

I convexed the edge of my user leaner meaner on wet and dry without any problems and it is quicker to do than you would think ;)
 
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