Edge Pro Stones... Water?

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Jun 13, 2007
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How should new edge pro stones be treated? Should I soak them? Just sprinkle a few drops on them? I'm just worried about them loading up and glazing like my Lansky stones.

Anyone ever use oil to clean them?

Thanks as always :)
 
I soak my water stones for about 30 minutes before using them, then keep them well watered during use, adding a few drops of water every minute or two, but not so much that I lose the slurry. I use more water on the EdgePro stones than on bench stones as they are used upside down, and tend to lose water more quickly.


Stitchawl
 
Thanks man. I've seen people do it different ways on youtube. I'd prefer to keep the mess to a minimum, and I've seen some pretty big messes, but it sounds like it doesn't have to be that way.
 
Ever tried using bar keepers friend to dissolve the metal on your loaded up stones?
 
No, works well though?

Also is there any danger to the stones in terms of leaving them in water too long? Could they be stored in water?

Sorry for the newb questions. :)

Edit- edge pro recommends the 1/2" stones for recurves, but they say you can round the edges of your regular stones too. Has anyone done this?
 
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Also is there any danger to the stones in terms of leaving them in water too long? Could they be stored in water?

This depends upon the maker. Some waterstones will become much too soft if stored in water. Others will not be affected at all. There really is no need to store them in water. They just need to be wet to bring up a slurry when being used. Often I see local sharpeners using a second stone rubbed against the first to work up a slurry before bringing the blade to the stone.

Edit- edge pro recommends the 1/2" stones for recurves, but they say you can round the edges of your regular stones too. Has anyone done this?

The term 'recurve' is somewhat misleading. How profound a curve are you planning to sharpen? Will it be the gentle recurve of a Benchmade 710? I sharpen mine in the regular EdgePro stones without needing to round the edges. But for a Hawkbill-style like a karambit or a Kris, I prefer a round rod-shaped stone. Rounded edge stones work better for getting into the steeper curves.

Stitchawl
 
Recurves like small Kershaw leek, scallion etc...

I noted your use of the term slurry in your first reply. You are referring to the steel and stone particle slurry that appears as you are sharpening, right? I had always been taught to get this off immediately and to wipe the blade every couple of passes. What benefit is there to leaving the slurry, and indeed producing one, before you sharpen?
 
Recurves like small Kershaw leek, scallion etc...

I noted your use of the term slurry in your first reply. You are referring to the steel and stone particle slurry that appears as you are sharpening, right? I had always been taught to get this off immediately and to wipe the blade every couple of passes. What benefit is there to leaving the slurry, and indeed producing one, before you sharpen?

Some Master Sharpeners will not use stones at all. They just use the slurry FROM the stones on a piece of wood or glass. This is the technique they use to get the final polish on tanto and katana. Or... just use the slurry on their finger and rub the blade gently.

The slurry has far more stone in it than metal, and it's really the part that fully contacts the blade when sharpening with water stones. Yes, you can wash it off if you want, but you're just wasting your stones, needing to create more slurry before the real sharpening takes place. When a Master Sharpener cleans off the blade he's working on, it's to inspect the edge. I've never seen on wash off any stones, only add a few drops of water to what is already there.


Stitchawl
 
Thank you very much. Maybe that is common info but it's new to me. I'll definitely keep this in mind the next time I break out the stones.

I assume the same goes for sandpaper? I have the other thread with other questions regarding the paper, but one thing I didn't ask is if paper should be used wet or dry.
 
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