Edge Pro System Results

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vigalass

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Nov 26, 2016
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Guys. Nubie here. I've just acquired an Edge Pro system to see i can produce better results than the previous 44 years have with a stone. I've done 4 or 5 edges now. I'm getting better at finding the existing bevel angle so as to not have to reprofile every time.

My problem though is this. I can get a nice sharp edge. it would be respectable to take to the field. That said, i can't get it sharp enough to glide through paper without resistance, or shave hair. My stones kit skips from 600 to 1000. Would i have better success with an 800 stone in my rotation?

I'm open to all constructive advice and suggestions.

Thanks.
 
vigalass said:
Guys. Nubie here. I've just acquired an Edge Pro system to see i can produce better results than the previous 44 years have with a stone. I've done 4 or 5 edges now. I'm getting better at finding the existing bevel angle so as to not have to reprofile every time.

My problem though is this. I can get a nice sharp edge. it would be respectable to take to the field. That said, i can't get it sharp enough to glide through paper without resistance, or shave hair. My stones kit skips from 600 to 1000. Would i have better success with an 800 stone in my rotation?

I'm open to all constructive advice and suggestions.

Thanks.
Click to expand...


I have had good results with Edge Pro on different steels, i.e. hair whittling edges. Can you tell us what steels you are sharpening?
My hunch tells me that the issue is associated with either high vanadium carbide steels like S30V or deburring process.


Miso
 
vigalass said:
I'm getting better at finding the existing bevel angle so as to not have to reprofile every time.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

You can look up YT video or whatever to show you how to use a Permanent Marker to color in the edge before you start to grind. Then, one or two strokes and you can see "where" the stone is hitting the edge...and you'll NEVER have to reprofile unless you want to.
I usually use a magnifying glass to inspect the edge after several light strokes, and the "blue" will be removed where the stone hit it. Have fun.

Don't bother with the 800 stone. I suspect that you are not removing (or forming?) the burr on the edge. You will be able to feel the burr on the edge with your fingernail...it is quite apparent.

Again, you can find lots of YT videos of Edge Pro. I believe that Jim Ankerson of blade-steel testing does his work just using a silicon carbide stone of 400 grit on the Edge Pro, and says that a properly-ground edge can easily slice through paper. I have an Edge Pro and it works very nicely...
You don't need a mirrored edge to slice Yellow Pages...and such an edge loses its sharpness rather quickly to then become a "working edge" that will last quite a long while.
 
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Could be one of two things

1)Not getting to the edge of the edge
Sounds laughable at first, but this is a problem many, many, many people have when they first get an edge pro. Its caused by the fact that most likely the knives you are starting to learn on are extremely blunted. This means that even if you do get all the way to the edge of the edge the two sides dont necessarily meet. You really need to make sure that you are establishing a full length burr on both sides before moving on.

2)Inadequate burr removal
This is where a little bit of technique comes in. Lets say that you do produce a full length burr down both sides, many people mistake this for sharp. Use it and it blunts quickly as the burr rolls and breaks off. Cut paper and it shreds instead of cutting cleanly. I recommend this technique for burr removal. It has excellent results even on extremely coarse stones.

[video=youtube;j032eLxxhzc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j032eLxxhzc[/video]
 
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