Edge Pro technique question

J

jblane

Joined
Jan 9, 2010
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26
I recently bought an Edge Pro Apex system and have sharpened a few of my cheap knives on it, getting a very good edge considering the quality of the steel. Before I start sharpening my Benchmade, Al Mar, and Boker knives I wanted to ask a question that's been bugging me about how the manual and DVD recommend moving the blade along the table. For blades longer than 5", the instructions say to move it down 1" after every 3-4 strokes. My question is, wouldn't you end up removing significantly more metal from the middle of the blade than from the extremities at the base and tip? For example, on a 6" blade (which is the length of my Boker knife), every stroke will end up passing over the middle of the blade, while only about half will hit the base and tip. Has this been an issue for anyone? I'm wondering whether it would make more sense to just split the sharpening into 2 3" sections so that all parts of the knife get the same amount of grinding. Thanks for any clarifications.

One other question about the Boker: it's a double-edged blade, any tips for sharpening double-edged blades on the Edge Pro? It seems like the first edge sharpened would get a bit dulled by resting against the stop as the second edge is sharpened. I've considered covering it with a little duct tape, but thought I'd ask for tips on that as well.
 
Since you haven't got any replies I thought I would chime in although I'm not a pro with it yet.

When you are sharpening it just sharpen in sections. If 2 sections is easier for you do it that way and then make some strokes to smooth it all together. You want to build up a burr so this is an easy to see way to know where you need to remove metal. You just work the spots that need it until you have a nice even burr. If your burr is even then you shouldn't be removing metal from one spot more than another. Once you start using it you will get the hang of what you need to do and what part of the blade you need to work on. I would practice on some longer kitchen knives to get the hang of longer blades.

On the double edged blades a piece of masking tape sounds like a good solution. I don't think the plastic will dull it much anyways as you shouldn't be pressing into it hard. I also strop afterwards which should finish it up nicely.

Practice some and I think you will get the hang of it pretty quick.
 
Your concerns are legitimate. The answer to your first question is "yes, sort of." Excess metal at the tip and heel can be a problem when first learning to reprofile or regrind the edge on a knife. If you see this happen, you can always remove the excess steel by making a few extra strokes just on the ends of the blades. It isn't hard to put a little extra pressure on the left or right side of the stone to even out an edge.

Here is what I've found to work best. Just as knives cut best moving two directions at once (pushing forward + down or backward + down), the same thing applies to sharpening with the stone arm on an EP. Use a forward sweeping motion that spans the width of the blade table. This produces a more even grind across the entire length of the blade. When beginning to sharpen, always start with the tip of the blade or the heel if that is in the section of the blade you are sharpening. When sharpening the tip or the heel, begin the stroke with the stone halfway off of the edge. This will minimize the excess and hollow sections on the edge while not rounding the ends of the blade edge. In the end though, you will still just have to have a good eye to notice imperfections as you sharpen. Always check for gaps in the edge by placing the edge against a flat surface.

As for the double bladed edge, the EP isn't the best tool but you can still do it. You can bend the edge against the stop even when you tape it. You just have to be very careful &/or clamp it to the table somehow. I personally sharpen double edge blades with a belt grinder, wheel grinder w/ jigs, or free hand sharpen them.
 
jblane said:
I wanted to ask a question that's been bugging me about how the manual and DVD recommend moving the blade along the table. For blades longer than 5", the instructions say to move it down 1" after every 3-4 strokes. My question is, wouldn't you end up removing significantly more metal from the middle of the blade than from the extremities at the base and tip? For example, on a 6" blade (which is the length of my Boker knife), every stroke will end up passing over the middle of the blade, while only about half will hit the base and tip.
Click to expand...

On longer blades, as you move the knife across the blade table, you sharpen the area of the knife that's on the table at the time. So, one way of looking at it is that you are doing the knife in sections, but after a time it becomes more fluid. But you wouldn't sharpen the heel and middle of the blade, then move the knife and sharpen the middle to the tip. It would be more accurate if the instructions said to move the knife about the width of the blade table... not 1". Typically, the way I do it, is to start at the heel and work a section, work thru the middle in however many sections needed to cover it, then work the belly area to the tip as a final section.

cbw
 
Although I'm a new poster, I'd echo the comments made by the previous posters - portion the longer knives in sections, doing one section at a time. I would use painters tape instead of duct tape if possible. The thickness of the duct tape may be an issue.
 
On a side note... you can get painters duct tape at your local hardware store. I've used it and it releases from metal without leaving any residue.
 
You quickly learn to sharpen what's on the blade table only. Maybe you move the blade one inch, maybe three. After a while, you can tell by feel, and sound.,

Listen to your blade as well as feeling it. :thumbup:
 
Double-sided blade? Take out the EdgePro stones and use it to freehand.
 
I sharpen up to 10" blades by moving the knife only once on the sharpener table. For blades under 7" I don't move the knife at all. There is a bit of a learning curve with the Edgepro but it isn't nearly as long as the freehand sharpening learning curve. Keep at it. You'll do fine.
 
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