Edge-Pro

[rrg991981]

I am realy contemplating an edge pro after mangeling my Skirmishes edge last night, Which model does everyone have, the Apex or the Pro? Which is better for a total sharpening retard? Opinions and suggestions are welcome!

 

[oldrifleman]

The two operate the same I believe. I have the Apex and it work great! What you get with the Pro is that you have a scissor sharpener and the base swivels and is clampable. You can also get a nice hard case with the Pro. With all that said I like my Apex. Steven

 

[Nosmo]

For home use the Apex is all you need.

 

[rrg991981]

Is it easy to learn/use?

 

[oregon]

Is it easy to learn/use?

Yes and no.

You need full use of both left and right hands to work the stones. You hone one side of the blade with one hand and then switch hands to do the other side of the blade.

I have been using the Apex for 1.5 years. I can still mess up an edge, point or blade surface if I am not careful. (Use painter's tape on the blade face to keep scratching from slurry to a minimum and wash your hands after sharpening to avoid metal particles getting into your eyes)

You should consider, if you get an EdgePro, to begin educating yourself in the sharpening process using your bottom tier knives. Graduate to the good cherished knives when you are ready.

I bought mine from Bronk, at OKCA, and he demonstrated and discussed it with great insight and understanding.

I love using the 3M tape to polish the cutting edges to a mirror finish.

Here is my work on a Kershaw ZDP-189 Leek:


Micro bevel, on the extreme edge, at 200X magnification:

I think that I can sharpen about any steel that will take an edge. It is a complete gas to put a razor edge on your relative's cutlery and see their reaction to using the sharpest knife of their life. This service/skill gives my father-in-law at least one reason not to chastise me at Thanksgiving.

All the best,


oregon

 

[rrg991981]

I know there is a learning curve with anything I think I may get one as long as it isnt too tough to learn

 

[STR]

Its pretty easy to use. Just tape the blade you sharpen if scratches bother you. I stopped taping the table a long time ago and just stick some duct tape on the blade itself on both sides. Electricians tape works also or the painters masking tape too for that matter.

Get two or three of the course stones. If you use it a lot you will go through those five times faster than any of the others.

I have the Apex and feel it does just fine. The pro is just to darn much money and the Apex does the same thing.

I've made out my own aluminum bars and glued diamond sharpeners on them that work also but the thickness difference has to be accounted for since it will change the angles you are used to achieving. They work prett good on some blades though.

STR

 

[rrg991981]

well i sent the skirmish off to edge-pro to take them up on their free trial, we will see what comes back!

 

[a223cat]

I see the apex comes in two varients kit3 and kit2.

one is 40 dollars more. kit3 have something I want for that extra money?

 

[Andrew Taylor]

It comes with an extra stone.

http://bronksknifeworks.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=24

If you order it from One Stop Knife Shop, you are helping the owner of Bladeforums.

 

[a223cat]

Then THAT is what this Kat will do!

edit: I looked at 1stop. They dont sell edge pro!

 

[sodak]

You can buy from edge pro directly, they're on the internet. Let us know how the knife they send back performs.

heh heh heh...hook.being.set.

The edgepro apex was some of the best money I've *ever* spent. I still might get a pro model.

 

[rtrain82]

oregon,

Do you have any problems with getting a straight bevel. I seem to always have a slanted bevel, if so is there a trick or just takes practice?

 

[oregon]

If I understand what you mean by a straight bevel, distance from edge to beginning of bevel is of equal distance from the heel to the toe of the blade, then yes I have seen this happen to me.

It was most pronounced when I sharpened soft blade steel at an acute angle. The Okapi. The bevel grew continually as you approached the tip. Eventually the tip disappeared and became part of the bevel.

You can avoid this by lessening your pressure on the stone as you approach the tip of the blade. Apply the most pressure at the heel of the blade and lighten your downward force as you grind toward the point.

I usually count my strokes and apply an equal number, of equal force, to both sides of the blade (with force lightening as you progress toward the point). That is, if the initial grind starts out the same on both sides.

I stop every 20 strokes (rinsing the stone off with the water bottle), depending on the hardness (Rockwell rating) of the blade steel, and examine my progress with a keen eye (after wiping off the edge with a rag). And, I usually employ a 16X Doublet (jewelers loupe, magnifier) to get a good view. It is easier to remove metal than it is to put it back on so I am tense and nervous with a new blade steel, a long or short blade and even with an old regular.

I hope this helps. If you are able I would enjoy seeing a close shot of your bevel problem. It would help me learn.

I have done little as rewarding as taking a hunk of metal and putting a razor edge on it with muscle power. Ben Dale, with his EdgePro, has enabled all of my tired old blades come back from the dead.

All the best,

oregon

 

[oregon]

Unless you actually want a spread out tip don't do what I did here.

All the best,

oregon

 

[rtrain82]

Here is one of the knives I was practice sharpening on. As you can see it is uneven.

 

[oregon]

All bets are off...It is a tanto!

I've never sharpened a tanto mostly out of fear of failure. Heck, I avoid acquiring knives that I think will present sharpening problem. Like those with serrations. You have both sharpening mountains to climb with that blade.

I started on old carbon butcher knives.

My guess is that you are letting your knife move under the stone. Grip, no death grip, your knife as you move the stone across the bevel. If the knife rolls while sharpening with the EdgePro you would get that result.

Also, as the stone wears and deforms with usage you can get a slightly uneven bevel. Some resurface the stone or get new ones.

Hope this helps. (great job on the photo )

All the best,

oregon

 

[rtrain82]

I have the exact same look on the other side of the blade, so unless I am letting it move the same on each side I think I am holding it right. I just wasn't sure if this is normal or not. Everytime someone takes pictures of there shinny bevel it always look even so I figured it must be me.

I will have to play with some other knives to see if I can get a even bevel on better quality knives.

Thanks for your input.

 

[oregon]

You may be applying more force to the tanto end of the bevel vs the serration end as you sharpen. I say this because what I see in your photo of the edge between the serrations and the tanto is a lengthening of the bevel as measured from extreme edge to beginning of bevel. The edge bevel widens as you move from serrations to tanto. I had a tendency to do this same thing when I got started and when I sharpened soft blade metal. You can see my results in the photos of the Okapi above.

You are consistent on both sides anyway.

You might give a harder steel a try. Any deformity should be less given the same number and force of sharpening strokes.

The blade may be differentially hard. Harder at the serrations and softer at the tanto.

 

[rtrain82]

I wonder if I go back to the edgepro and apply a lot of pressure near the serration end if I could even out the bevel. So if I understand correctly applying more pressure would make a bevel larger?